Avin Avant 2 Install E53 w/Nav - Very Long and Detailed

[Green Dragon]

I spoke with one of the contacts a last week. They did update the corners of the new units for the e53.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Green Dragon

I spoke with one of the contacts a last week. They did update the corners of the new units for the e53.

Thanks for chiming in. I was pretty sure that was what happened. But it's nice to have confirmation.

As a long term update on how the unit is performing... almost perfectly. I say almost because I went to use the tethered wifi from my phone and the Avin's wifi is disabled and will not turn back on. Tried rebooting and then resetting... but no luck. Was on the road so didn't have time to try much else. Going to try and update to the new firmware and see if that fixes it since I am still on the original firmware.

If the firmware update doesn't work I'll have to get with Tommy and see where to go from there.

[Skyline]

Outstanding write up. A few questions for you:

Do the steering wheel buttons work to activate the phone and control the head unit?

Why did you pull so much of the interior out? I understand the console and rear area/hatch, but the rear seats and side panels I don't get. It is certainly possible to route wires rear to front, (as I did when installing a Bluetooth module), in an E53 without taking the whole interior out. I had to remove the doorsills on one side, and then unbolt, (but not remove) the drivers seat...nothing else.

When I see an installer gutting an interior like that, it's usually to Dynamat everything, and also when installing heavy gauge amp wiring and upgraded speaker wiring. (Keeping amp power on the opposite side of the car as the RCA cables). I gather you were using existing speaker and amp wiring???

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Skyline

Outstanding write up. A few questions for you:

Do the steering wheel buttons work to activate the phone and control the head unit?

Why did you pull so much of the interior out? I understand the console and rear area/hatch, but the rear seats and side panels I don't get. It is certainly possible to route wires rear to front, (as I did when installing a Bluetooth module), in an E53 without taking the whole interior out. I had to remove the doorsills on one side, and then unbolt, (but not remove) the drivers seat...nothing else.

When I see an installer gutting an interior like that, it's usually to Dynamat everything, and also when installing heavy gauge amp wiring and upgraded speaker wiring. (Keeping amp power on the opposite side of the car as the RCA cables). I gather you were using existing speaker and amp wiring???

Steering wheel controls work to control the unit fine and all the buttons do something (track skip, source input, etc). I'll have to test the phone controls (voice yelling button) as I never use it and report back.

As for gutting the interior. I try to run (on BMW's) all my wiring with the factory wire looms. The X5 has pretty good sound deadening already and unless adding a heavy duty sub setup I don't see a reason to add anything unless you are competing. This is a personal preference thing and you are right is definitely not required to get the job done. As a pro it's just the way I like to do things...

From a reliability standpoint running along the factory looms keeps things from getting stepped on, crimped, or otherwise interfered with. I HATE doing jobs twice. Like infuriatingly, rage quit, blinding type of hate... LOL.

As an update to the above... updating the firmware did not work for me to re-engage the wi fi. Sent Tommy an email and we'll see what he says. As a side note, I like the new CarHome UI and BMW boot logo is a nice touch.

[X5only]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Crystalworks, could you please post a pic of the reverse side of your breadboard? I'm trying to make a project box like yours. I got all the components from RadioShack. Is the breadboard coppered?

Thanks!

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by X5only

Crystalworks, could you please post a pic of the reverse side of your breadboard? I'm trying to make a project box like yours. I got all the components from RadioShack. Is the breadboard coppered?

Thanks!

Yes it has copper solder pads and I use jumper wire and solder jumpers to make any joints. Not sure if I have a pic... let me see what I can find.

[bcredliner]

After reading this thread I decided go to the website and check it out. I reviewed the features and then opened the chat option and asked asked about the features I am most interested and how they compare to the Dynavin and the install of my particular X5. Those interested will want to know they will be introducing a new unit in the near future. We didn't discuss the differences from current offering but from the conversation I didn't get the impression it will be radically different.

[X5only]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Yes it has copper solder pads and I use jumper wire and solder jumpers to make any joints. Not sure if I have a pic... let me see what I can find.

Got it, no wonder I was stuck- I got a perfboard instead of a printed circuit board. The picture of the project box looked like a perfboard was used.

By the way, much thanks for your detailed DIY write up. I used it to install my Dynavin fakra and camera cables. I didn't take the interior apart like you did (I took a surgical approach) but your write up was a great guide!

[X5only]

Crystalworks, what would the circuit diagram and relay pin out look like if the reverse light is used instead of the PDC? Wouldn't the +12v const come from the reverse light? I'm making a project box for my E39 as well which doesn't have PDC. I want to ensure I wire up and solder the boards accordingly.

Thanks for the help!

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by X5only

Got it, no wonder I was stuck- I got a perfboard instead of a printed circuit board. The picture of the project box looked like a perfboard was used.

By the way, much thanks for your detailed DIY write up. I used it to install my Dynavin fakra and camera cables. I didn't take the interior apart like you did (I took a surgical approach) but your write up was a great guide!

Perfboard comes with solder pads on some versions. The ones I buy are called perfboards. Like the one below. That's not the one I buy, I typically buy big sheets of the stuff from China so I have it in stock for other projects. But below is a small example of the stuff I use.

Solderable Perf Board, 2-1/2 x 3-1/8"

Glad the write-up helped you out. Took me 2 days to write it up and of course added time to the install for pictures and notes. I realize most will not take the entire interior out like I did, but it's how I work and if nothing else it gives people a good how-to should they need to do something else that would require getting access to the areas I did.

Originally Posted by X5only

Crystalworks, what would the circuit diagram and relay pin out look like if the reverse light is used instead of the PDC? Wouldn't the +12v const come from the reverse light? I'm making a project box for my E39 as well which doesn't have PDC. I want to ensure I wire up and solder the boards accordingly.

Thanks for the help!

The circuit would look the same but where the PDC source wire comes in you would use the reverse wire. You could get away with using a regular 5 pin auto relay if using the reverse wire I believe. If you have one on hand that is... I would have gone that route were it not for Term's excellent idea of having the PDC control the back up camera.