wheel noise - tires or wheel bearings or something else?

[Ricky Bobby]

Take an on/off ramp above 40 mph, both kinds.

If the noise disappears above 40 mph in a turn like that, you know its the bearings.

I used FAG. They are OEM bearings but the same ones in BMW box cost double.

[kevinkay]

I can't tell.....driving myself crazy
Its generally louder in left front then add vibration noise like a helicopter noise, getting worse since started noticing it 5 months ago. Starts very early on (20mph) loudest at 45-50, not as noticeable at 60-65 (but everything is louder then).

So I can go to dealer and get diagnostic for $140 OR use that money for parts,
$40 for bearing,
$5. for axel nut
plus I should replace the CV boot while i am there,
clean out the CV joint (just in case noise is joint)
$15 for aftermarket boot
$40. machine shop pressing

I am cheap and stubborn so most likely will be out in the cold!

[Ricky Bobby]

Gkn loebro boot kit is OE and $15 per side, yes I would do boots if doing bearings again. Sounds like a bearing based on what you're saging

[RFaber]

I used FAG bearings in my X5 with great success, also using the harbour freight press and bearing puller! I also had a wicked shimmy between 60km/h and 100km/h, i suspected the front tire was out of balance, (steering wheel had a distinct feeling and shimmy) rotated front tire to back, and the shimmy was now in my seat! not the steering wheel, that was confirmation to me that my tire was out of balance. brought it to my favorite tire shop, where they balanced it and remounted the wheel for me for a crisp $20 bill! all is good now!
make certain its not the tire delaminating or something like that. i even went so far as to use a dial indicator to see if i had a bent rim or out of round tire!!
good luck

[kevinkay]

I am 1/2 way there, the knuckle is off the car, the machine shop said pressing cost includes pressing the old one out so I drop it off tomorrow with the new FAG bearing and I bought a new lock ring - I re-used lock rings on last install, after all the FORCE to get those bearing in I can't imagine the need for those clips
Big Thank You to Ricky Bobby clueing me into the free tool rental from Advanced Auto, easily pushed the axel out (but this was all done only 40k ago).

BIG surprise to finally spin the hub without axel, it seems very smooth, i may have jumped the gun on this but i am in too deep.
Am min. even if the noise persists my mind will be at easy driving and not thinking the wheel was going to fall off......

[kevinkay]

YEP, my noise was the bearing.
Back on the road.

Ran into some issues along the re-install. Had the knuckle back on, the axle nut just caught, tie rod and strut back on. Went to alttach the control arm to the lower ball joint and noticed the threads messed up. STUPIDLY I tried to force it on, stripped the Allen trying to hold the joint from moving. Those ball joints are semi- pressed in and very hard to get out, after fighting it a long time decided to just pull off the knuckle again, had to then remove the control arm which means removing the bumper (drivers side). Hammered out the ball joint, cut the nut free from the control arm. Ordered a new ball joint $25 + 10 shipping, got it next day. I am convinced the machine shop messed up the threads on the joint when pressing as one of the brake shield nuts was also smashed.

Then all back together, torqued the axle nut RICKY BOBBY's way - length x force = torque. Weighed myself in my work clothes and boots, did the math (330ftlbs = 3960 inch lbs - will give you inch length) and stood on the bar at 21 1/2".

If I had to guess why my bearing failed at 40k after my first replace I would say I over torqued the axle. The force to get it off does not equal the force to get it back to 330lb when it's new and cleaned up. I tend to over tighten and often use an 8 foot extension, had to fight myself not to give it one more "snug" with the long bar. Ended up about a 1/2 thread past the nut this time and when removed it was more like 1 thread length showing.

And yes, I know you have to torque the control arm back to the frame with weight of the car on the ground.
THANKS for all the guidance.