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#131
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#132
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Just a suggestion, need to take a look at those hoses being used. When I did both of my e53 3.0's the hose will collapse due to so much vacuum. (as mine did) I used plastic fuel injector line and made any hose connection as short as possible. Also tried doing this setup with my son's 325xi wagon did not work, kept throwing lean trim codes. We ran the valve cover hose uphill (so the oil would run down/back into the valve cover) then into the air filter box and capped off the manifold vacuum. One more thing I forgot to mention, the clearance between the engine and hood e46 you will have to use close elbow's to be able to shut the hood. Just remember when it leaves the valve cover it has to go uphill immediately so that gravity will pull the heavy oil droplets back to the valve cover. If you run it straight to the vacuum ports you are defeating the purpose of this bypass.
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#133
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quick update for me, did mine in feb, changed oil, getting ready to change oil again, and oil level hasn't moved a drop on the stick....zero issues....
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#134
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Great thread. I just bypassed my CCV a few days ago, sticking to the instruction of the initial post. Everything went fine. The only thing is: I'm getting a strong smell of burnt oil inside the car once in a while. Not always, just after high revs. Smells like someone was grilling chicken inside the car.
It's an E46 320i convertible, M54 engine. |
#135
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Here's a quick video I made showing a bad CCV for diagnosis, check it out. Functioning CCV should have no strong suction like you see in the video. Defective valve and or blocked dip stick tube can create excess pressure like shown here:
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#136
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Quote:
__________________
X5 4.6 2002 Black Sap, Black interior. 2013 X5M Melbourne Red, Bamboo interior Dallas |
#137
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Just did this today as I got low idle cause of broken plastic hoses if ccv valve so that's easier than ccv valve and easier to replace and if I get better mileage and get rid of carbon on my exhaust it'll be better yes
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#138
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I guess the smell of burnt oil which I reported earlier had nothing to do with my CCV mod. I replaced the valve cover gasket a week before the CCV modification, I guess there's a light oil leak somewhere, not related to the CCV.
There's a guy on Youtube, Eric the Car Guy, who says that if your car burns a lot of oil and you do this CCV mod, the car will need a couple of hundred miles to burn off the remains of the oil that were in the intake and other parts. May be true as well. |
#139
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I've done this
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#140
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Can I get some long-term feedback from people who have done this modification?
1. According to "mlody" from different forums, he did all kinds of CCV mod, and eventually had to replace the pistons rings (all 3 rings), and only this (replacing the rings) solved his oil consumption problem. 2. Now onto this mod. When you look at the Duralast PCV Valve shown on the first page, it is basically a valve with spring inside, once the vacuum reaches a certain point, it opens up allowing vacuum to to suck air into the I.M. In a way, this design is similar to the BMW stock CCV Valve (which also has a spring). Perhaps the Duralast spring has different design (different In Hg when it opens). Can some gurus explain why the Duralast PCV valve is better than BMW spring? - What is long-term report on oil consumption using this mod (or similar mod)? The more I read the more I get confused. cn90 2006 X5 M54 6spMT with 122K miles and 1 qt every 500 miles!
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT Last edited by cn90; 11-24-2016 at 01:26 PM. |
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ccv, oil separator, pcv, vacuum, ventilation |
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