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Old 01-18-2015, 03:48 AM
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Thumbs up DIY Solution to M54-M52TU CCV problems

Few days ago the CCV on my 3.0 X5 froze up and started to consume oil and cause engine lean codes-misfires, I have read that these CCV's love to fill with condensation sludge in the winter time, and even though I made sure to never make 5 minute short trips mine still managed to freeze up.
So while looking for a solution to this problem I stumbled upon this thread here : http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-in-10-mins!!!

It looked like a good cheap solution to a very common problem. All credit goes to member S14B23 I followed his instructions and took some pictures along the way.

Since replacing my CCV with a traditional PCV all of my problems disappeared, no more engine lean codes and a silky smooth idle, and not to mention no more worrying about my CCV freezing and hydrolocking my engine with oil from the dipstick tube.

I will keep everyone posted as to how this is holding up in the upcoming months, but as of now I am very happy with the results. This took approximately two hours, but I was also replacing my Oil stand gasket while I was in there. I know I performed this on my X5, but this will be 99% identical to E39's, E46's, E53's and anything else with an M54-M52TU engine.

Parts used were bought at Autozone,
PCV valve item # PCV1124DL $2.99
1 Foot of 3/4 internal diameter Hose $1.50
1 Foot of 3/8 internal diameter Hose $1.50
1 box of assorted plastic plugs $4.99
4 various sizes of metal band clamps $1.00

Supplies:



Next we begin by removing the plastic engine cover and removing the 4 Torx bolts marked by the red dots on the air distribution piece.



After the bolts are removed spray some penetrating oil onto the 6 little plastic tubes that go into the intake manifold, I used a pry bar to gently pry each plastic tube upward without damaging anything. Keep in mind that the air distribution piece is still connected at the Green dots, after you pry everything up, disconnect the clip near the green dots, keep the yellow dot clip attached because that will lift with the entire assembly, and cut the tube with a razor where the red dots are, be careful not to cut yourself.




When everything is cut and disconnected, you can lift the entire air distribution assembly up along with the attached hose that we need.



Don't worry about these two connections between the intake runners, we will disconnect all of the CCV vacuum lines so these will be useless, cut them off if you like, I just left mine there.




Now with this piece removed, carefully take off some of the insulation from the vacuum tube. About an inch should do.




I wrapped some electric tape around the tip to create a tighter fit into the 3/8 ID Hose.




Then attach the 3/8 ID hose onto the tip of the vacuum tube and tighten with a band clap.



After that you have to plug the port on the opposite end of the air distribution piece, I found a red plastic cap that fit in very tight.



Wrapped the plastic cap with electric tape to make sure it doesn't fall out later.



Now it's time to cut the other connection off, You can cut it anywhere, I just chose to go lower cause I had the oil filter stand off, remember that the OEM CCV is now useless and we don't need the other end of that plastic pipe, I left mine where it was without plugging anything.




When everything is cut, strip all the plastic tubing off of the connector and insert it into the 3/4 ID hose, tighten with a band clamp.




Then cut the 3/4 ID hose as short as you can, then fit the PCV valve into the hose and tighten with a clamp.




Now clean all 6 of the air distribution port holes on the intake manifold I used brake cleaner and a rag, I also applied a little grease to make re-installing it easier.
Like I said earlier, don't worry about those 2 connectors between the first and second yellow dots, they will no longer have any vacuum.




Now line up the Air distribution piece up with the six holes, and gently tap each one back into place.




After that, connect the new PCV connection back into the valve cover, then measure out the smaller hose and cut it to fit into the other end of the PCV valve neatly.




Now you go under the car and remove the plastic splash shield and find your CCV dipstick drain hose, which is marked in red.




You then take off the hose from the dip stick tube(Green dot) , then find a plastic cap to firmly close the metal part of the tube where that hose was (Red Dot).



CONGRATS! You did it, the factory CCV is now completely blocked off and bypassed by the new "old fashioned" PCV system.
Start the car up and check for any air leaks or unplugged connections.



After you make sure everything is working perfectly, put all your plastic covers back on and enjoy your sweet new PCV system, and if the PCV valve ever breaks, replacing it is literally a 5 minute job, unlike a OEM CCV system.
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  #2  
Old 01-18-2015, 11:37 AM
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Wow.

Can you please link the BF thread again? I want to see some results of long term testing.

If this helps with oil consumption, and is serviceable, you may be on to something. Paging Doru and cn90 as they are pretty much the E39 experts to see their thoughts...

I just replaced with cold weather CCV complete system in the past year but if this is reliable and long term solid, I'm going to do it for sure.

EDIT Nvm I found it.

I've spoken to some E39 gurus though and I thought the consensus was that for long term reliability the PCV isn't enough to keep the vaccuum down in the crankcase, over time its bad for the rings bc of too much vaccuum? Dorin (Doru) and I have discussed this several times, he would be able to chime in on this.
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Last edited by Ricky Bobby; 01-18-2015 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 01-18-2015, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Wow.

Can you please link the BF thread again? I want to see some results of long term testing.

If this helps with oil consumption, and is serviceable, you may be on to something. Paging Doru and cn90 as they are pretty much the E39 experts to see their thoughts...

I just replaced with cold weather CCV complete system in the past year but if this is reliable and long term solid, I'm going to do it for sure.

EDIT Nvm I found it.

I've spoken to some E39 gurus though and I thought the consensus was that for long term reliability the PCV isn't enough to keep the vaccuum down in the crankcase, over time its bad for the rings bc of too much vaccuum? Dorin (Doru) and I have discussed this several times, he would be able to chime in on this.
I would love to hear some more insight as well from people that understand this system more, I will continue to further modify this system to achieve CCV vacuum levels, maybe with the use of smaller and tighter fittings I can reach desired vacuum levels. I will keep everyone posted if I mange to make this system better.
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Old 01-18-2015, 05:48 PM
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Very, very interested in hearing how this works out. I have not yet had a CCV problem, but it is just a matter of time. When changing the VC gasket I accidentally broke the plastic tube running down from the VC elbow connector to the CCV and had to repair it. It was full of "mayo" emulsified oil. As I say, I think it's only a matter of time, and I'd much rather do this than return to the unrobust factory design.
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:39 PM
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Bavarian, just wondering, was your CCV original? I just changed mine out this year to all cold weather parts including dipstick tube.

Last winter it made some high pitched whining in the cold until warmed up, so I knew it was on its last legs and preventatively did it this summer

I was not only surprised and impressed to see my valve marked 9/2003 (my build month) so my original system lasted 11 years. Impressive especially noting all the CCV failures posted on these boards.
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2003 X5 3.0i 5-Speed - Born on 9/18/2003
105k miles -Topaz Blue/Schwarz/Titan Int. Trim/EHCII/Sport
Proud 3-Pedal owner, UUC SS/AFE/4.8iS Exhaust/Sharked
2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 -
68k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards

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Old 01-18-2015, 11:04 PM
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Yes, mine was original, non cold weather, mine did not make any high pitched sounds, just started to misfire at idle, and the dip stick-oil cap had crazy vacuum suction. The main reason I went with this fix is because it is MUCH easier to change if the valve goes bad, and there is no risk of hydrolocking the engine if the CCV freezes and pulls oil from the dipstick into the intake.
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:48 PM
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This seem as a good short term idea, but doesn't the engine continue making mayo from condensation? Where is all that "mayo" going, the PCV?
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyX5 View Post
This seem as a good short term idea, but doesn't the engine continue making mayo from condensation? Where is all that "mayo" going, the PCV?
The way I see it is there is a much shorter route for the crankcase air to travel, and its right in the belly of the engine which would heat up the pipes more than on the side of the block and create less "mayo", not to mention the slightly stronger suction which moves the air faster not giving it as much time for the sludge to build up.
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BavarianE39 View Post
The way I see it is there is a much shorter route for the crankcase air to travel, and its right in the belly of the engine which would heat up the pipes more than on the side of the block and create less "mayo", not to mention the slightly stronger suction which moves the air faster not giving it as much time for the sludge to build up.
This setup looks pretty good. Only worry is about the mayo going back into to the intake(if any). Are you able to add an oil catch can to see if there is any mayo coming out from this short system?
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleAIm View Post
This setup looks pretty good. Only worry is about the mayo going back into to the intake(if any). Are you able to add an oil catch can to see if there is any mayo coming out from this short system?
I'm sure It would be possible to add a catch can if you extend the hose somewhere, similar to how I did it on my 540, I'll drive around for a while like this and see if there are any negative side effects.
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