DIY Solution to M54-M52TU CCV problems

[Mike61North]

Hello, new member here. I've been lurking for a few weeks trying to get smart on a new to us 02/04 with 3.0. Thanks to you all I was able to determine that the CCV had failed as one might imagine would happen in AK in the winter. I was hopeful that I had nipped the issue in the bud with the PCV bypass but alas I also blew the VCG.

I used pretty much an identical set-up as the OP did after he modified it to attach to both sides of the air distribution box. I used a poly pex tee instead of brass which probably has a larger orifice, and I used 5/16" fuel hose from bulkhead CCV attachment to the tee fitting. This eliminated the need for taping or hose clamps. I used 5/8" heater hose for the front connection to the ADB.

I fully intended to follow the procedure to the letter, when I encountered some history of creative fixes: someone had used silicone sealant to fix a vacuum leak around the #6 prong of the ADB into the intake manifold. I found that I was able to do the bypass WITHOUT removing the ADB at all. I understand that it would've been better to clean all of the mustard out but I was afraid of what I would find under the silicone, and it wasn't leaking now. I also unfortunately was unable to separate the bulkhead side of the hose, but I got what I could out of the other. I've seen stories where these things endure worse and figured that it had been on a constant diet of the stuff anyway, and would be happier once it burned out all of that crap.

Wondering if the VCG blowouts are due to strain from increase in vacuum in an older gasket, or just means that I wasn't quick enough to catch the CCV... Any opinions? I am reasonably sure it has it's original VCG (110k) so it may have just been time.

In my case we purchased from a dealer, we may try to jump ship for a e70 35d, otherwise on the hook for plugs/coils/O2 sensors etc from exhaust oil contamination in addition to VCG repair. I'm now concerned enough about the obvious delayed maintenance that I would rather not keep this one if I can avoid it. The Carfax proved to be misleading at best. Anyway, the local dealer enjoys good rep and likes to try to keep it so we'll see how it goes, I don't think that they have that much into it. If I end up stuck with it I'll be here grinding away with the rest of you!

Thanks again to all, I would've hydro locked it without this forum. Cheers!

[BavarianE39]

Originally Posted by Mike61North

Hello, new member here. I've been lurking for a few weeks trying to get smart on a new to us 02/04 with 3.0. Thanks to you all I was able to determine that the CCV had failed as one might imagine would happen in AK in the winter. I was hopeful that I had nipped the issue in the bud with the PCV bypass but alas I also blew the VCG.

I used pretty much an identical set-up as the OP did after he modified it to attach to both sides of the air distribution box. I used a poly pex tee instead of brass which probably has a larger orifice, and I used 5/16" fuel hose from bulkhead CCV attachment to the tee fitting. This eliminated the need for taping or hose clamps. I used 5/8" heater hose for the front connection to the ADB.

I fully intended to follow the procedure to the letter, when I encountered some history of creative fixes: someone had used silicone sealant to fix a vacuum leak around the #6 prong of the ADB into the intake manifold. I found that I was able to do the bypass WITHOUT removing the ADB at all. I understand that it would've been better to clean all of the mustard out but I was afraid of what I would find under the silicone, and it wasn't leaking now. I also unfortunately was unable to separate the bulkhead side of the hose, but I got what I could out of the other. I've seen stories where these things endure worse and figured that it had been on a constant diet of the stuff anyway, and would be happier once it burned out all of that crap.

Wondering if the VCG blowouts are due to strain from increase in vacuum in an older gasket, or just means that I wasn't quick enough to catch the CCV... Any opinions? I am reasonably sure it has it's original VCG (110k) so it may have just been time.

In my case we purchased from a dealer, we may try to jump ship for a e70 35d, otherwise on the hook for plugs/coils/O2 sensors etc from exhaust oil contamination in addition to VCG repair. I'm now concerned enough about the obvious delayed maintenance that I would rather not keep this one if I can avoid it. The Carfax proved to be misleading at best. Anyway, the local dealer enjoys good rep and likes to try to keep it so we'll see how it goes, I don't think that they have that much into it. If I end up stuck with it I'll be here grinding away with the rest of you!

Thanks again to all, I would've hydro locked it without this forum. Cheers!

Sorry to hear about the issues you've discovered when doing the mod, I know how much it sucks to purchase a new vehicle only to discover how the previous owner glued and rigged everything. At your mileage those VCG tend to be very brittle from heat and age so doing the gasket is a great idea. The X5 that I did this mod on is still running strong on the original PCV valve and the engine has not showed any ill effects so I'm fairly confident in this bypass, considering the number of cars I have done this mod on I haven't had a single one report any issues.

[omgwtf]

Originally Posted by Mike61North

Hello, new member here. I've been lurking for a few weeks trying to get smart on a new to us 02/04 with 3.0. Thanks to you all I was able to determine that the CCV had failed as one might imagine would happen in AK in the winter. I was hopeful that I had nipped the issue in the bud with the PCV bypass but alas I also blew the VCG.

I used pretty much an identical set-up as the OP did after he modified it to attach to both sides of the air distribution box. I used a poly pex tee instead of brass which probably has a larger orifice, and I used 5/16" fuel hose from bulkhead CCV attachment to the tee fitting. This eliminated the need for taping or hose clamps. I used 5/8" heater hose for the front connection to the ADB.

I fully intended to follow the procedure to the letter, when I encountered some history of creative fixes: someone had used silicone sealant to fix a vacuum leak around the #6 prong of the ADB into the intake manifold. I found that I was able to do the bypass WITHOUT removing the ADB at all. I understand that it would've been better to clean all of the mustard out but I was afraid of what I would find under the silicone, and it wasn't leaking now. I also unfortunately was unable to separate the bulkhead side of the hose, but I got what I could out of the other. I've seen stories where these things endure worse and figured that it had been on a constant diet of the stuff anyway, and would be happier once it burned out all of that crap.

Wondering if the VCG blowouts are due to strain from increase in vacuum in an older gasket, or just means that I wasn't quick enough to catch the CCV... Any opinions? I am reasonably sure it has it's original VCG (110k) so it may have just been time.

In my case we purchased from a dealer, we may try to jump ship for a e70 35d, otherwise on the hook for plugs/coils/O2 sensors etc from exhaust oil contamination in addition to VCG repair. I'm now concerned enough about the obvious delayed maintenance that I would rather not keep this one if I can avoid it. The Carfax proved to be misleading at best. Anyway, the local dealer enjoys good rep and likes to try to keep it so we'll see how it goes, I don't think that they have that much into it. If I end up stuck with it I'll be here grinding away with the rest of you!

Thanks again to all, I would've hydro locked it without this forum. Cheers!

The CCV failed, crankcase over pressurized and blew your VCG, oil around gasket and in the spark plug holes. Lucky it didn't hydro-lock or crack the VC