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  #11  
Old 02-12-2015, 11:59 AM
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Solder + heat shrink tube it.
I've been doing this for years and never had problem.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2015, 01:43 AM
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It looks almost like it had a wire soldered to it. Maybe an aftermarket night time / light dimmer for a head unit. Myself, I would solder then use marine heat shrink. It has the glue which creates a watertight seal.
But a novice trying to solder in an tight area could burn something. If you haven't soldered before, get some scrap wire, a cheap iron, some YouTube videos and practice. It is pretty easy to do wires and a great skill to have.
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2015, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
I don't recommend solder in automotive applications unless you have NO space to do a crimp...

Solder get's weak due to the vibration.

Crimp it
I've heard this before... and don't agree with it at all. If you are even semi-competent at soldering it almost always yields a more reliable connection than crimps. Been soldering and heat shrinking for a decade now (as well as crimping in certain temporary situations) and have always had very reliable results.

Some crimps are better than others (posi locks) and can yield decent joints, but they are ugly as hell to look at and are usually very bulky. This becomes even more so if repairing a bundle of wires (for example the bundle in the rear hatch wire that has a tendency to wear out wires).

As mentioned, solder it and fix it right the first time. Or take it to someone who can do it. Won't take them long and shouldn't cost much.
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2015, 11:39 AM
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thanks for all the help guys, i'm thinking of just popping in to a local auto electrician like you say, shouldn't cost much and i can show him these posts too.

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  #15  
Old 02-15-2015, 05:05 PM
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Not only is the wire damaged in the obvious spot in the pic, there are indications of melting a couple of inches up from the damage.

Any means of making a solid connection and protecting it should suffice. Personally, I would not think twice about twisting the wire back together and then covering the patch work with heat shrink (first choice) or electrical tape. Be sure to secure the wires away from whatever did the damage that is being repaired.
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  #16  
Old 02-15-2015, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
I've heard this before... and don't agree with it at all. If you are even semi-competent at soldering it almost always yields a more reliable connection than crimps. Been soldering and heat shrinking for a decade now (as well as crimping in certain temporary situations) and have always had very reliable results.

Some crimps are better than others (posi locks) and can yield decent joints, but they are ugly as hell to look at and are usually very bulky. This becomes even more so if repairing a bundle of wires (for example the bundle in the rear hatch wire that has a tendency to wear out wires).

As mentioned, solder it and fix it right the first time. Or take it to someone who can do it. Won't take them long and shouldn't cost much.
Agree that vibration causing solder failures is a myth. If it were true, there's be a lot of airplanes falling from the skies, cars dropping dead after hitting a bump, etc.
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  #17  
Old 02-16-2015, 01:41 PM
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Solder fracture or cracking is not a myth, but a properly done solder splice will be stronger, not prone to corrosion and will last longer than a crimp. Let us also clarify we are speaking of the typical auto vampire crimps or barrel style, not professional or mil-spec crimps with the calibrated tools to do them. A proper lineman splice will be as strong or stronger than the original wire and when heat shrink applied with the proper overlap will not be subject to fatigue vibration.
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1972 Datsun 240Z
1991 Isuzu Impulse XS Sold
1972 Fiat 850 Spyder Donated
1972 Datsun 240Z Sold
1972 Datsun 510 Sold
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  #18  
Old 02-16-2015, 01:44 PM
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Well I've just tried stripping and twisting however the rear indicator still doesn't work??

Everything else fine, brake light, front and passenger inducators etc..just the rear driver side indicator
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  #19  
Old 02-16-2015, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcp240z View Post
Solder fracture or cracking is not a myth, but a properly done solder splice will be stronger, not prone to corrosion and will last longer than a crimp. Let us also clarify we are speaking of the typical auto vampire crimps or barrel style, not professional or mil-spec crimps with the calibrated tools to do them. A proper lineman splice will be as strong or stronger than the original wire and when heat shrink applied with the proper overlap will not be subject to fatigue vibration.
I agree with what you are saying, but it is just reiterating what we said. A proper solder joint is not going to fracture or crack. And there are good "crimps" out there... but if you are going to do that... why not just solder. You aren't picking those style connectors up at your local auto parts place... save maybe posi-locks.

misteriley... sorry it didn't fix your issue... sounds like more diagnosis is needed, but I'd still fix (or have fixed) that wire or group of wires.
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Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles)
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  #20  
Old 02-16-2015, 05:48 PM
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Usually when a bulb blinks faster than it should it means one of the bulbs on that circuit is burned out.
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