Remove front clip and pull motor?

[TriX5]

So I ordered the chain tensioner and while waiting decided to work on my '05 Tundra to get it ready to sell. I made a 100 mile run in the E53 to the Toyota dealer to recover the Tundra after they did the airbag recall. Then did another 50 mile run in the E53 with my daughter after which my wife took the keys and she has been using it whilst I enjoyed a three night stay at a local hospital from last Sunday..... (No, not Covid related)

Today I am finally back on my feet, the weather is great and was thinking about what to do first. Decided to start INPA and look at the engine codes and the live analog data again since the SEL was still on last Sunday. However, when I started up the e53 to my surprise the SEL was off! The fault code was still stored but clearing it and then restarting the motor did not generate a new FC. Live data now showed Vanos angles 15 deg and dropping to 7-8. I am happy as now it can go to the emissions test. At last she is running as intended after the very long interim on jack stands. )

I will still install the new tensioner and need to fix the oil leak. I now feel I should start looking for a glass supplier for the front windscreen and spend an afternoon cleaning and waxing the paint. Also have a set of headlights that I want to finish modding.

Andrew, thanks again for great pointers!

[thesalboy]

Man, reviving threads from March 2020 feels awful. But I gotta ask how things are...?

[TriX5]

Originally Posted by thesalboy

Man, reviving threads from March 2020 feels awful. But I gotta ask how things are...?

No problem, I had started the thread in 2015.... :-)

The E53 is running very well, we use it as a runabout, the kids use it a couple of times a week. In the meantime I have been working to get all the fault codes on my E70 worked out, pretty much done with that now.

On the E53 I installed the BlueBus for the kids to stream audio. I purchased and installed an OEM microphone. The next step is to find some pins for the TCU plug so that I can use the BlueBus for Handsfree calls.

I had a leak on the modded headlights and decided to take them out and mod them some more. Will take me yet a while longer to complete.

The tank breather valve I got off Amazon was supposedly OEM (I no longer believe that it was), and it increasingly gave me codes for a short circuit (as opposed to the original which was giving me open circuit codes). I grew tired of it and ordered a Vemo branded one from FCPEUro. Fortunately, this has eliminated the issue all together. Lesson learned. :-(

Now the code 33 is back with implausible limit value on Bank 1 Vanos each time the motor is cold started. Once it is running the Vanos live values are right around zero but it fails and gives me a CEL each time it is cold started. So, I am going to adjust the reluctor plate a bit more and if that doesn't work I will have to go back to square-one and do the full timing sequence. I found a website in Germany that contains some interesting pointers on what typically goes wrong when trying to do the timing as a one person job. Should be done by two people as keeping the cams in place and torquing the sprockets at the same time leads to slight inaccuracy which turns up as a code 33/34. I have a friend on standby to help me if I decide to go whole hog.

I have still have one screeching sound on revving up, I had eliminated the worst screeching by replacing the two tensioner pulleys but I think the last one is the power steering pump. Also, still have a minor coolant leak, one of the hoses to the radiator I think.

Yesterday took the forward splash guard off and today pulled the washer tank and the airbox out. In the next 24 hours I should know how this will pan out. Over the next few weeks I hope to iron out all the kinks.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by TriX5

I grew tired of it and ordered a Vemo branded one from FCPEUro. Fortunately, this has eliminated the issue all together. Lesson learned. :-(

Now the code 33 is back with implausible limit value on Bank 1 Vanos each time the motor is cold started. Once it is running the Vanos live values are right around zero but it fails and gives me a CEL each time it is cold started. So, I am going to adjust the reluctor plate a bit more and if that doesn't work I will have to go back to square-one and do the full timing sequence. I found a website in Germany that contains some interesting pointers on what typically goes wrong when trying to do the timing as a one person job. Should be done by two people as keeping the cams in place and torquing the sprockets at the same time leads to slight inaccuracy which turns up as a code 33/34. I have a friend on standby to help me if I decide to go whole hog.
kinks.

There is a step in the timing sequence that is called "optional". It is not.

That is where you run the crank through 2 full turns after you set the initial timing and install the temporary chain tensioner/s

Before attempting to dial reluctor, try different (new/borrowed) cam sensors.

Every error I've gotten after timing chain job was cam sensor related



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[crystalworks]

You have the patience of a saint with that E53. I commend your persistence.

Been admiring the work done on the E70 as well. After I replace the trans in the wife's 35d I might have to tackle the vacuum lines, manifold, etc as you did. We'll see.

[TriX5]

Crystalworks - This E53 has been with us since 2006 and was our first X5. It was reasonably reliable until 2011 when the trans failed. After that it ran ok for four more years (with occasional work in the wheel wells) but then oil leaks became an annoyance and the ABS module started to fail. FFWD: Last March I tweaked it enough for it to run with only the occasional code for the breather valve and rarely the vanos. Not sure if it is the colder weather that makes cold starts more critical. However, I need the car to be fully sorted for emissions inspection. Nevertheless, I am considering parting with at least one of the X5s as 4 cars is too many for the relatively few miles we make since Covid broke out.

Andrew - thanks, INPA states the error is -1 degree on bank 1 which is a pretty small error. If a tweak of the reluctor plate doesn't help then I will have to remove the TC covers and do the full sequence again and will then look into the sensors. I am not really keen to unbolt the front but may not have an option.


EDIT: Popped the blocks on Bank 1 cams and tweaked the reluctor plate just a tiny bit, about 1.0-1.5 degrees. Deleted the codes and cold started it, codes did not come back. Test drive did not reveal any discernible change in throttle response so I assume that is now solved. On to the next item.

[andrewwynn]

Can you do a real time plot of requested versus actual cam angle I can do that with the foxwell

[TriX5]

Sorry, I have not yet downloaded the Foxwell software.

Unfortunately can't find the readiness codes for the e53 in ISTA\D. For the 35d they reside under SCR I believe but for this one it is an enigma. At any rate tomorrow I'll just follow the drive cycle and hopefully it will check out when I get to the VEIP station.

Now no longer chasing a small coolant leak either..... it is coming out with gusto from the side tank seal, top left. At least no more guessing where the leak is.

[TriX5]

FCP-Euro to the rescue, arrived in less than 48 hours! This should take care of the coolant leak. The few drops here and there morphed into a flood each time I parked the car on my driveway after driving anywhere.

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by TriX5

FCP-Euro to the rescue, arrived in less than 48 hours! This should take care of the coolant leak. The few drops here and there morphed into a flood each time I parked the car on my driveway after driving anywhere.

Where was your leak? Radiator tank or core or header plate? I had a crack in the tank and just went and bought a new tank and gasket/crimp band. If yours was the same then rebuilding the radiator will give you a spare or possibly enough resale to cover 50% of the new.

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