Remove front clip and pull motor?

TriX5 · #1 02-07-2019, 02:17 PM

Finally at the point where I can see the parts that need changing. The motor is pretty clean inside and I think it is a matter of refreshing the guides, the Vanos and new seals.

For some reason my pics come out sideways....

How do the half shafts come out? Next is to get them out and remove the diff so I can get to the pans next. Just noticed a thread of somebody doing this on a 4.8.... I wonder if the diff can stay in place, somehow doubt it...

thesalboy · #2 03-15-2019, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TriX5

How do the half shafts come out? Next is to get them out and remove the diff so I can get to the pans next. Just noticed a thread of somebody doing this on a 4.8.... I wonder if the diff can stay in place, somehow doubt it...

The inboard ends of the axles have heavy wire clips on them, and hold the axles into the diff very well. It takes a good amount of prying to pull the axles out of the diff. There are special tools that cup the CVs that might make it easier. I used a big pry bar or maybe two - it was a while ago.

TriX5 · #3 04-05-2019, 02:38 PM

A few weeks ago I brought back a slide hammer from stuff left over in my dad's basement. After oiling it up is still very serviceable and I decided today to have a go at the half shafts. For some reason I started on the passenger side. I bought a 3 1/4" exhaust clamp and attached it to the inner CV coupling. After about five hits the shaft popped out.
The driver's side, not so much! I worked on it for 20 minutes without any luck and then decided to see if the diff would come off the oil pan anyway, which it did. Now I could see the end of short shaft by looking through the diff. However, there is a cylindrical piece in the way, so using a piece of pipe is not an option. I used a hefty flat blade screwdriver and a 10lb hammer. After 3 hits the shaft popped out.
Now I am ready to drop the lower oil pan cover and the intermediate pan and then finally I can start ordering parts.

TriX5 · #4 04-22-2019, 06:06 PM

Finally the sump is off. A bit tricky since it is a dolly and I can't see underneath but it beats working on it while it is in the car and lying on your back! :-) It took a few minutes to gently persuade the "flywheel" off but not too bad. The oil-pump chain is in good condition but a posting by David X5 revealed that exchanging the pump maybe part of curing the start-up rattle.
Tonight I hope to find a few minutes to take the RMS off and the coolant cover.

QUESTION: I was thinking that the reassembly is reverse order?

As far as I can see this, I need the sump back on and the flywheel in place to keep the crankshaft at TDC with the pin. Once the sump is back on, I can start work on the timing chain guides and the Vanos. Any reason I should consider a different order?