DPF Delete Pipe & ECU Reflash Source

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Deftronix

Carries a lifetime warranty as well. Andrew is great! Just didnt want to look at a surface rusted exhaust when I work under the car. Since I drive up to the snow quite often just wanted to avoid the issues altogether.

Most Magnaflow and Flowmaster exhausts I've seen are 409SS I don't think its that much to worry about, even factory exhaust is probably 409 - If you live and breathe in the salt belt then yeah it might show up as surface oxidation a bit sooner -

I'm a bit of a ways out from doing this as she has 45k miles and has 8 months of factory warranty left along with CPO after that, but since we are moving to NC which doesn't have diesel emissions, and since both NOX sensors have been replaced recently and the SCR catalyst is getting replaced tomorrow I have zero faith in the emissions system reliability for the long term. The engine and everything else, yes, but I won't bankrupt myself after warranty expires just to be "green" -

[daytonatrbo]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

I have zero faith in the emissions system reliability for the long term. The engine and everything else, yes, but I won't bankrupt myself after warranty expires just to be "green" -

That's basically my feelings on it. In TN I don't have to worry about any inspections. And the peace of mind of eliminating the most troublesome part of an otherwise excellent engine is worth way more than any HP or MPG gains.

[Stockx5]

Originally Posted by bawareca

It is doable to add a new sub-routine in the DDE, but only if someone has the original manufacturer description of the programming structure. But after all the t-stat fails only every 60-80k miles. Which reminds me that I have to check mine.


Although I have access to many lifts, I did mine with the car on jack stands. I removed passenger side motor mount and bracket, lifted the engine slightly, dropped the subframe a bit and was able to wiggle the DPF out. The long pipes for the pressure differential sensor have to be bent because they are hitting the firewall on the way out. It is not particularly pleasant job, but doable.

how did you lift the engine? and how many hours would you say it would take to remove it. and to put it back?

was hoping i could jack up the engine from the bottom with a regular shop jack.

also where is the dme and whats involved in removing it? i googled for a diy but apparently its a state secret.

Originally Posted by daytonatrbo

That's basically my feelings on it. In TN I don't have to worry about any inspections. And the peace of mind of eliminating the most troublesome part of an otherwise excellent engine is worth way more than any HP or MPG gains.

well that makes 3 of us.

I'm gonna kill the emissions components before it kills my engine.

I think Im gonna go with the dpf gut out path then that way i know it fits perfect, there will be no long term reliability problems due to installing aftermarket material and I wont have to spend extra dime on it.

should be simple enough to cut it with a grinder remove everything and weld it back with a arc welder...since I don't have Oxy acetalene.

[daytonatrbo]

Originally Posted by Stockx5

I think Im gonna go with the dpf gut out path then that way i know it fits perfect, there will be no long term reliability problems due to installing aftermarket material and I wont have to spend extra dime on it.

should be simple enough to cut it with a grinder remove everything and weld it back with a arc welder...since I don't have Oxy acetalene.

As long as you have the right filler rod.

Originally Posted by garagelogician

I've never wrenched on a BMW before, do they use one-time use "stretch" bolts like VW/Audi does?

The subframe bolts are recommended to be replaced upon removal.