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  #11  
Old 11-25-2015, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by clinkinfo View Post
Im a 2008 4.8 with about 90k miles.

I figured spongebob would work hard, Patrick is just too lazy.

I'm going to fool around with a backup safety design. Maybe a cable looped in the catch. When the replacement part comes I'll look and think some more. I can tell you I DONT ever want to do this again!
Patrick. . . Way to go

When you are giving the failure scenario a good look, consider the possibilty of occassional maintenace that could have avoided this issue. For example, do you think is it helpful that the latch mechanism be sprayed with lithium grease annually? Where the latch is mounted it does get exposure to rain, road spray, road grime, salt, etc. an annual coating with grease may keep it operating optimally?
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  #12  
Old 11-25-2015, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by regdfry View Post
Patrick. . . Way to go

When you are giving the failure scenario a good look, consider the possibilty of occassional maintenace that could have avoided this issue. For example, do you think is it helpful that the latch mechanism be sprayed with lithium grease annually? Where the latch is mounted it does get exposure to rain, road spray, road grime, salt, etc. an annual coating with grease may keep it operating optimally?
I will. It's interesting that the passenger side cable looks Like the most likely failure. That cable runs behind the radiator in front of the engine and would seemingly be exposed to a lot of significant cyclical heat. It has me wondering about cable positioning design, because I've seen many other passenger side failures discussed.

We shall see! Happy thanksgiving all!
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2015, 10:54 PM
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So I'm back. It turns out, my passenger side cable was shot. Don't know if there's much you can do preventatively, I guess if you experience any hood "issues", I wouldn't hesitate to change the cable. My cable was very stiff and not moving well at all, compared to the new one.

Couple followup details, the latch comes out on the passenger side fairly easily. There's an electrical connection on the passenger side, you need to disconnect it too, the new latch comes with the entire electrical cable assembly attached. See the picture:





Once the latch is out, you twist the cable attachment to unlock it (took me a minute to figure that out), and then twist lock the new one on:





Getting the drivers side out is much harder, there is a similar opening, but it's blocked by a body flange. Doable, but more of a pain:



I'm still looking for a safely design on the release. It's tough because you need to push the latch back toward the rear of the car, so any cable you could attach and pull forward isn't going to release it unless you wrap it around something and get it to pull back. It think it's possible, because there are 2 little holes behind each bracket, but it's not as simple as I wanted.
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2015, 11:53 PM
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Awesome pictures, this is what a good forum member is all about.

I think I might just order cables just because and replace them in the spring unless I get a few good weather days before the end of the year.

Given how little most hoods are opened these days, sad to see this happen.
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2015, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Awesome pictures, this is what a good forum member is all about.

I think I might just order cables just because and replace them in the spring unless I get a few good weather days before the end of the year.

Given how little most hoods are opened these days, sad to see this happen.
Yeah, this is a stupid failure and a surprising amount of pain 🙄

I forgot to mention, I used a hook tool from the top opening to get it back into position because my hands couldn't fit all the way back into the opening when putting the latch back. I slid the latch in the opening as far as I could get it, then grabbed the latch with the hook tool from above to pull it up into position and set the 2 bolts. It worked well, and was pretty easy. If you don't have a hook tool, you could easily fashion a metal clothes hanger to do the same thing I think.

You just have to be careful not to rotate the cable by accident while you're manipulating it into the opening. You can put it into the "release" orientation by accident, which makes it fall out of its slot.
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  #16  
Old 12-01-2015, 07:56 AM
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How many German cuss words did you learn doing all of this?
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  #17  
Old 12-01-2015, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
How many German cuss words did you learn doing all of this?
It was unpleasent, lets leave it at that

I can tell you, after all that work, I have been getting an odd enjoyment from opening and closing my hood. so stupid.
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2015, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by clinkinfo View Post
It was unpleasent, lets leave it at that

I can tell you, after all that work, I have been getting an odd enjoyment from opening and closing my hood. so stupid.
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2015, 05:09 PM
ard ard is offline
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Couple of thoughts-

1. the 'release wire' idea I had was a hacksaw wire wrapped around whatever it was that you cut- so you could saw that off if needed.

2. Leaving a cable that runs 'back' towards the fender liner area is a solution too- if you need to pull rearwards...
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  #20  
Old 12-02-2015, 05:14 PM
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Nice work clinkinfo!! Thanks for sharing.
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