Help me decide; fix, trade, sell 2008 3.0si w/ 192,000 miles

[monto]

I have a 2008 3.0si with ~192,000 miles. I've always envisioned driving this car for as long as possible but have put over $7,000 into the car in the last 8,000 miles. The most recent repair replaced the VANOS solenoids and the CEL came on while driving home from the shop. After a quick stop at my indy to run the codes they said I am getting an emissions fault, catalytic efficiency on bank 1 and 2. First course of action they recommend is to change the oxygen sensors, and if that does not clear it then to replace the cats. The cost to replace the sensors is ~$1,500 and the cats another ~$3,100.

While I never thought I would even consider getting rid of the car I'm worried I'm beginning to throw good money after bad at this point. I have taken meticulous care of the car otherwise, changed oil every 7,500 miles and washed every week or two since day 1. I've included my maintenance history below.

All this said, here are the options I'm considering
1. Do nothing and trade in (CEL may not matter since they will auction it anyway?)
2. Do the sensors and see if it clears. If so keep.
3. Do the sensors and see if it clears. If so sell/trade immediately.
4. Do the sensors and if it does NOT clear, replace the cats and keep.
5. Do the sensors and if it does NOT clear, replace the cats and sell/trade.

I'm willing to spend the ~$4,600 if, based on all my other recent repairs, it's worth it. I know "worth it" will be different for everyone.

Curious at the communities thoughts and opinions. Thanks for reading!

monto


191,776 VANOS solenoids, crankshaft sensor, hood cables and latches, oil,
191,025 water pump, expansion tank, left headlight bulb, rear right brake light bulb
186,980 Disa valve x2
184,079 oil, air filter
179,485 oil, emergency brake cable
174,497 oil
169,226 front brakes, rear brakes, brake fluid
168,227 oil, air filter, brake fluid
164,576 oil, air filter
157,975 spark plugs, ignition coils
155,682 oil, transfer case fluid
154,360 Front left and right wheel bearings
153,595 EMF parking switch, right inner tail light, air filter, AC compressor
150,743 oil
143,139 oil, alignment, thrust arms, hood latch
136,740 brake fluid, inner rear tail light
136,407 oil
128,852 oil
120,599 Cylinder head cover
120,139 oil, radiator, valve cover gasket, valve tronic motor seal, eccentric shaft seal, oil filter housing gasket, oil cooler gasket
114,653 oil
109,926 front brakes, rear brakes
104,618 oil, tire rotation
102,496 Coolant reservoir
96,882 oil, brake fluid, new transmission (BMW covered 50%)
89,213 oil, air filter, water pump, spark plugs
82,200 oil
75,959 Fuel delivery unit recall, air filter
75,199 oil
67,777 oil, alignment, tire rotation
60,551 oil, air filter
58,763 Front brakes
54,251 oil
49,856 Rear brakes
46,456 Tires
45,600 oil, air filter, brake fluid
37,882 oil
29,685 oil, air filter
22,858 oil
14,919 oil
7,457 oil

[itsbrokeagain]

For the mileage is definitely change the 02 sensors first and then run with it and see. For that amount of miles and relatively no codes being thrown that would hurt the cats, I don't think they would be bad. What codes are you getting?

[monto]

Originally Posted by itsbrokeagain

For the mileage is definitely change the 02 sensors first and then run with it and see. For that amount of miles and relatively no codes being thrown that would hurt the cats, I don't think they would be bad. What codes are you getting?

faults we're catalytic efficiency on bank 1 and 2.

[ard]

Those codes are NOT definitive.

There are other things that can cause that- like vanos issues causing the car to run rich at some RPMs, leading to a swamping of the cat with hydrocarbons.

What do the AFR numbers look like over the RPM band? What are the results of a vanos functional test?

Looks like dealer pricing, eh?

I would NOT trust an Indy that is guessing with my money and just using codes....

[monto]

Originally Posted by ard

Those codes are NOT definitive.

There are other things that can cause that- like vanos issues causing the car to run rich at some RPMs, leading to a swamping of the cat with hydrocarbons.

What do the AFR numbers look like over the RPM band? What are the results of a vanos functional test?

Looks like dealer pricing, eh?

I would NOT trust an Indy that is guessing with my money and just using codes....

Ard, thanks for your response. Interesting you mention the vanos, the CEL came on after about 20 miles of driving after having the vanos replaced. Is there any tuning of the vanos or improper installation that could be the culprit?

My apologies for my ignorance but how would I get insight into the AFR numbers over the RPM band? I will mention performing a vanos functional test to the shop.

Surprisingly these prices are about 20% lower than dealer pricing here in the Boston area.

[Stockx5]

Maybe someone more knowledgeable can verify this but aren't there some tests that can be run on the o2 sensors that while not always definitive might point in some direction? like check the live sensor data to see if they are flat lining or maybe there is a self check test that can be run under Rheingold for the catalytic converter like on the diesels?

if you could get Rheingold im sure you would have more to go off of rather than just what they tell you.

[BevMW]

Before you replace anything, I have a thought, have you tried resetting any adaptations to the fuel injection? I had this issue on my e36. Like what ard said. For me I had a vacuum leak and when I fixed it, the car was running super rich and bogging down. It did not lean the fuel back out right away after the problem was gone. Disconnecting the battery for some time let the ECU clear the memory or something and go back to default. Started the car and was perfect from then.
May not be anything like this, but something free to try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[monto]

Originally Posted by BevMW

Before you replace anything, I have a thought, have you tried resetting any adaptations to the fuel injection? I had this issue on my e36. Like what ard said. For me I had a vacuum leak and when I fixed it, the car was running super rich and bogging down. It did not lean the fuel back out right away after the problem was gone. Disconnecting the battery for some time let the ECU clear the memory or something and go back to default. Started the car and was perfect from then.
May not be anything like this, but something free to try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's worth a shot. Thanks!

[bmrboi2]

My 08 3.0l Loved throwing a CEL from 120k to 155K where it was involved in a Head on collision and put out to pasture ($11K in damages RIP). Always threw codes for the exhaust vanos, especially with the AC on and spirited driving. I cleaned and swapped the cylinders and always got the code on the exhaust vanos. My whole time owning that truck the engine never seemed right. It idled a little rough for my liking and didnt seem very spirited. It just went. (80k miles of ownership) There were no vacuum leaks (smoke tested) and everything under the hood was within specs according to the stealership and my indy. I just never could go full throttle with the AC on because it would kick that CEL and seem bogged down. After a lot of time and headaches replacing vacuum hoses, maf sensor, filters, plugs, valve cover for a new PCV and a bunch of other odds and ends I just said piss on it and drove the truck with my Carly dongle in and cleared the CEL whenever the light came on.

I will say that the CEL came on more often in the spring and summer months rather then the winter months.

Fast Forward

My 2010 3.0l is perfect. Idles smooth as silk. The engine is responsive and doesnt seem bogged down ever. Even my husband with his M2 said....wow this feels so much better then your last one (which led into the used car lecture) AC on or not. I have driven other 08's and it was touch and go. Mileage didnt matter....2 felt bogged and 2 felt like my 2010.

I'd love to know what you find because my 2010 is getting up there in mileage (110K) and I don't know what the future will bring. My goal is to keep it until it literally blows up.

[ard]

Originally Posted by monto

Ard, thanks for your response. Interesting you mention the vanos, the CEL came on after about 20 miles of driving after having the vanos replaced. Is there any tuning of the vanos or improper installation that could be the culprit?

My apologies for my ignorance but how would I get insight into the AFR numbers over the RPM band? I will mention performing a vanos functional test to the shop.

Surprisingly these prices are about 20% lower than dealer pricing here in the Boston area.

yes, they could have screwed up the install.

Be careful- some shops, when they do screw up, will find 'other problems' and charge you for those, when they actually are charging to fix their own mess. Not accusing your shop, beware.