What PSI should the cylinder be for valve stem seal replacement?

[byM5]

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

I'm surprised no one has come up with some sort of flexible hose with a balloon permanently attached to the end that would be inserted via the spark plug hole.

That's a great idea!!

I would be concerned with overfill and eventually puncture and or rupture.

But I'm sure there are ways around that.

[byM5]

Ok. I dialed back the psi to 40. I get a lot less cylinder movement with the lower pressure.

I got 3 intakes done yesterday!!

Starting to get the hang of placing the keepers in the tool and then on to the valve.

Should be done with bank 1 this weekend and start bank 2......

This is a long tedious job!!!!

[ard]

FYI

50i N63 valve stem seals job. Timelapse video - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by LightlyToasted

I think he's asking about the pressure for the leakdown tester to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder when its spring is removed.

I don't know what the recommended pressure is, but I recall it being enough pressure to hold the valve in place but not so much pressure to cause the engine to turn over.

This is an interference engine. Therefore, if the cylinder being worked on is at TDC then the valve cannot drop into the cylinder.

[Scott ZHP]

Originally Posted by Davidf

This is an interference engine. Therefore, if the cylinder being worked on is at TDC then the valve cannot drop into the cylinder.

The valve stem can drop far enough into the guide that fishing it back up will be a major hassle. You need pressure on the valve head to keep it closed in order to R+R the retainers. Been using oiled cotton clothesline stuffed into a plug bore and compressed by the piston for years.

[byM5]

Originally Posted by Scott ZHP

The valve stem can drop far enough into the guide that fishing it back up will be a major hassle. You need pressure on the valve head to keep it closed in order to R+R the retainers. Been using oiled cotton clothesline stuffed into a plug bore and compressed by the piston for years.

I did start to lose a valve as I was not careful enough to compress the spring while staying off the valve. Fortunately, it didn't go down far. But I wasn't evaluating how far it might drop either.

I believe you both are correct.

If the cylinder is not TDC, then it will drop lower.

If the cylinder is TDC, the valve is long enough that it won't drop much in such a way that it is retrievable with a magnet or needlenose.

[byM5]

Bank 1 is done!!!

New problem.
I've got a hard stop when turning engine to check for free movement prior to going to bank2.

Can a bent lifter cause a hard stop?
I'm not pushing it too hard. It feels like a dead stop. I'm sure all valves and seats are installed properly.

I removed the lifter and the roller thing on top of it. I had to pry the spring arm with a screwdriver to get that arm back between the y seat.

Bank 2 has not been opened. So I know it's a problem with bank 1.

Any suggestions as to how to determine the cause of the hard stop?

I read in another forum it is easier to remove the camshafts to do this job.

I think that's where I will continue because this job was not fun.
I was thinking of getting as many lifters off as possible and see if it will spin freely again. Or remove one lifter at a time and see if I can get past the hard stop
If that doesn't work, the head has to come off.

Suggestions??

Thanks

Did I say I hate this valve stem seal job?!?!!!

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[heatmizr]

Oh no. Did you get past this yet? I am hoping you just tried to turn it a little harder and it went...

[byM5]

Originally Posted by heatmizr

Oh no. Did you get past this yet? I am hoping you just tried to turn it a little harder and it went...

Yes. thank you for asking. I removed cams and found some hard black pieces of plastic (my guess is from spark plug sleeve). Tried turning again and it was still sort of a hard stop.

So, I said screw it. If I have to remove head, I might as well crank on this. So I cranked on it and it went. It goes now but not as easily as before.

I don't hear anything hitting or clanging when I come up fast on the TDC point. But its at TDC Where I began this.

timing the cams was a breeze. A non-factor. I recommend just taking the cams off vs struggling with access and line of sight.

I still have to do bank2 so the car has not run yet but I will be quick with bank 2. I'm guessing 6hrs vs the marathon of 20+ for bank 1 with cams in the way.

Will complete this weekend and get it running sunday.

Will update.

Any issues with timing guides on n62?

[byM5]

$60 dollars timing kit from cali

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