Bad transfer case?

[tractor]

Hi, thanks for approving my membership. I recently purchased a 2011 35d, and flew out and drove it home (about 1,500 miles).

It did great the first 800 miles, but then at about 70 MPH, while on a decline, the car suddenly jerked and pulled to the right. No lights on the dash, but I reduced speed, and got to the right lane. I saw an exit ahead so decided to get off, and it did it again on the offramp. However this time the traction control light flashed for a second. My foot was off of the accelerator pedal both times.

This was a pretty violent jerk to the right, almost as if only the right front wheel was braking for a second.

I decided to disconnect the AWD by removing fuses 92 & 125 in the 'trunk'. Of course all the warning lights came on about me not having ABS, TCS, etc.

I tested it in a safer area to see if it did the jerk again and it didn't. Continued on home the rest of the way with zero problems, although the cruise control being inoperative was a bit inconvenient. haha

On the list to do, even before I picked it up, was to change all the fluids. So I've got transfer case fluid, transmission fluid & filter, and both diffs to change soon. But I'm worried that won't be the fix. Thinking back I did notice a scraping sound on the front left wheel when I turned it when backing out of a parking spot. It sounded like it was rubbing up against the wheel well liner. Since it was dark I couldn't entirely tell when I got out to look at i. Not sure if that's related to the other issue or not though. I've done some searching, and maybe I don't know the right terms, but I haven't yet come across this exact symptom.

Sorry for the long-winded post, but I wanted to provide the details.
Any ideas? Thanks.

[ard]

Wow. Ballsy move- there is utterly no way Id have driven 700 more miles on a car that isnt working right.

I can't see this as "fluid" issue. IMO fluid doesnt cause violent jerking.

I can not recall seeing this symptom, so no help there. Can you read codes? You will need a BMW-specific code reader.

GL-

Oh, welcome!

[tractor]

Thanks!
And yeah, there was definitely some deliberation about moving on.

I'm thinking it's not a fluid issue either. Which sucks, but it's not my primary vehicle, as I've got a few old Audis sitting around. So that will give me more time to figure out what the issue might be.

I see a lot of acronyms/names thrown around with the BMW testing tool. For example: INPA. But then I see some posts that say they don't work to reset transfer case and transmission adaptations. So I'm most likely going to buy a Foxwell NT510. Hopefully that will do all the above.

I guess I'll have to start to consider transfer case rebuild or replacement.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by tractor

I guess I'll have to start to consider transfer case rebuild or replacement.

Shockingly inexpensive to purchase used.
Note with or without electric motor when comparing prices (and your needs).

[mkurniawansyah]

Might also worth checking speed sensors on the front wheels. I t should show on inpa or equivalent.

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[Dieselfan]

Check the tires for correct size.

[ard]

I think you need a scanner, to be able to diagnosis this and other issues.

HOWEVER, i absolutely do not think you gave enough info to buy a transfer case- based on the content here.

Could have been a fault in the stability control system was causing actuation of one caliper (just a total WAG here) ...I am sure there are other scenarios.

Just my 2 cents

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by ard

I think you need a scanner, to be able to diagnosis this and other issues.

HOWEVER, i absolutely do not think you gave enough info to buy a transfer case- based on the content here.

Could have been a fault in the stability control system was causing actuation of one caliper (just a total WAG here) ...I am sure there are other scenarios.

Just my 2 cents

This is not a car you can really work on much at home without the ability to interface with it. Plus once you have it, the scanner is free fast information when avail, and spend extra to get one that performs basic service functions such as adaptations/fuel/trans/xfer/air,etc.
Servo motors on the transfer case have issues and a fix. Transfer case takes magical fluid only available through the dealer. Used transfer cases are plentiful and priced accordingly. You're doing your own work right?

You caused a bunch of codes at a certain mileage when you pulled fuses. See if there are any that occurred an appropriate mileage prior.

Like Ard said, maybe it's something else.

[AlphaBetaX5]

I spent quite few months on transfer case and wheel sensors.

I do not think you need a transfer case.

I would (I promise I won’t start with battery)

1- Set up INPA (or ISTA+) this is a must for you to work on your BMW.

2-Scan the car with INPA or ISTA and get the codes.

3- Print the codes, erase them, ensure battery is fully charged, drive it, scan it again. Then you have some real material to work on.

4- Skip the unrelated codes for now. But don’t be oblivious about them!

5- If you see any faults codes about wheel sensor, check them. Wheel bearing would be your fix.

6-if you see any fault codes with “VTG servomotor, internal error, voltage “ words, you might have a battery and or battery registration issue! Sounds absurd, but it is real!!! Inspect your battery and registration status and go from there. That would be your fix.


Now if you don’t have INPA or ISTA yet, you can use a simple voltmeter and inspect wheel sensors manually!

I posted that procedure on bimmerfest in one of my posts. Same username. If you have difficulties, I’ll find it and post it here when on my laptop.



Don’t freak out ! Don’t rush into transfer case rebuilding or replacing.


Quick tip: inpa and the kdcan cable on ebay or amazon for ~$20. You need a PC laptop.
Ista+ on other bmw forums!


Good luck








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[AlphaBetaX5]

Here it is:


Check and inspect the wheel sensors:

Find the sensor connectors in a plastic box affixed to the body.

Open the hinged small box and disconnect the speed sensor connector.

Deep inside the connector, you will find two prongs.

Use a multimeter in Diode position (an arrow with a line in front) and test the prongs.

You should either see “no change”, or “a number”.

Now reverse the multimeter leads to the prongs, and you should see the other option: “a number” or “no change”. (in my case, sensors showed 420 for all four sensors) if one sensor shows a different number, stop there. That sensor is faulty.




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