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  #11  
Old 06-11-2020, 06:40 AM
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kuhllax24 is on a distinguished road
Hi Item,

Ok, I’ll do that, will let you know what happens.
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  #12  
Old 06-11-2020, 07:10 AM
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Once I reposition the tang into the valve body And put everything back together will I need to loosen the parking-release allen before trying to start the car?
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2020, 06:54 AM
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kuhllax24 - was hoping that item would respond, since he seems to have experience with the 8HP transmission. I have no experience with the 8HP (the 6HP doesn't have the parking release allen), but my understanding is that you would need to loosen the allen. Otherwise, the transmission would be stuck in neutral. And since the transmission is in neutral when the allen is screwed down, make sure you have wheel chocks/parking brake engaged. Be safe!

FWIW, I would also consider that the problem is in the connection between the wire harness and the mechatronic sleeve. Are you sure you didn't bend any of the pins? Use a mirror to look into the inside of the sleeve and make sure the pins are all intact and straight. If any pins are bent you will need to drop the mechatronic unit so you can get access to the pins to straighten them. And you made sure the wire harness is lined up properly with the sleeve? At least on the 6HP there is a notch in the harness that must be lined up properly to the sleeve. And lastly, make sure the harness is fully seated in the sleeve. On the 6HP this is accomplished by clockwise rotation of the locking ring on the wire harness. It looks like your tab was knocked off the locking ring, so getting the wire harness fully seated may be more challenging. I don't know for sure, but it seems logical to me that if the mechatronic pins and the wiring harness are not properly connected the car's modules/computers might prevent it from starting.

Good luck, and here's hoping you can avoid The Tow of Shame!
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2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2
2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1
2018 G01 M40i - now driven by me
2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife

Last edited by sgrice; 06-12-2020 at 08:04 AM.
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2020, 06:33 PM
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Hi guys,
Quick update: I followed mostly item’s instructions whereby I dropped the mechatronic unit far enough to release the tang from the parking mechanism. I then turned the park release bolt fully upwards and repositioned the tang into the valve body, after which I bolted the mechatronic unit back into space. Regardless, the red PARK light is illuminated anytime I unlock the door, and I can’t depress the brake to start the car. Item is correct that I probably couldn’t even get this thing towed b/c the emergency parking brake is engaged.

A caveat to the above is that i didn’t follow item’s advice totally in that I could get the tang out of the valve body w/o having to remove the electrical connector or mechatronic sealing sleeve. I didn’t want to relive that nightmare again. Curious if he says that that’s why the PARK light is still on and what the exact reason is.

I called a mechanic and he purportedly is coming to my house tomorrow to get the parking brake disengaged. I’ll update you guys as the diagnosis of my screwups begin. I’m thinking worst case I could manually retract the parking brake connected to the rear rotors with a caliper retractor tool. Any thoughts to this?

And sgrice, I don’t think I damaged anything. There’s barely any hand room to put in the sleeve or connecting cable, so I had to finagle with both for over an hour until they perfectly lined up. Then I rotated the collar quite a bit until it seemed really snug. I’m more concerned that oil got into the connection somehow and damaged things. There was a noticeable drip coming from the cable harness after I put in the new ZF oil.

I’ll make sure to update this thread as things get solved. And I have a number of hopefully helpful tips for anyone else that is (foolish) enough to undertake this maintenance. I’ll put that at the end of the thread.

I miss driving my car. And this is our only car, so it’s a bit of a drag. Thank god I did this debacle during a pandemic when we can’t go anywhere anyways.

Last edited by kuhllax24; 06-12-2020 at 06:33 PM. Reason: I’m no Shakespeare
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  #15  
Old 06-13-2020, 12:56 AM
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hi, first time poster, but if its the electronic park brake the left combox hatch in the boot has a mechanical steel cable to manually disengage. just throwing that out there... if stuck in park then sorry for wasting your time.
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  #16  
Old 06-15-2020, 09:15 AM
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Hey. Sorry. I didn't see that anyone was responding.

I do not know 100%, but I assume the car is automatically engaging the parking brake because the transmission is telling the DME it can't go into park. I haven't experienced this. If you have it mechanically back together like it should be, perhaps there is a code that needs cleared to tell the DME that everything is OK (and to release the parking brake).

If you start the car with the allen parking release screw all the way screwed in (parking prawl manually released) and start the car, it will start, however, you will get a transmission malfunction light (the yellow gear). Once you shut the vehicle off, unscrew the allen all the way, and restart the vehicle, the trans malfunction light (yellow gear) will be gone.

PS, I should've used caps on my user name. It is LTEMUP. I know. lame. It's just something I've used for a long time that references smokin the tires (Light 'em up).
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  #17  
Old 06-15-2020, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltemup4650 View Post
Hey. Sorry. I didn't see that anyone was responding.


PS, I should've used caps on my user name. It is LTEMUP. I know. lame. It's just something I've used for a long time that references smokin the tires (Light 'em up).

Good morning LTEMUP.


Too funny on the moniker. My name derives from me learning German (kuhl=cool) at the same time I was playing high school lacrosse (lax). 24 was my jersey number. I've had that username for 20+ years and I still use it to this day, although I'm a 40-year-old dad with two young kids.



To update the group (if anyone cares): I had a mechanic show up on Saturday to assist. He was able to disengage the parking brake, and then we called a tow. Supposedly he left the gear in neutral, but when the tow showed up (tow of shame, hah!), it was in park. The tow guy said that he could tow it from the rear wheels, and that since the car has a limited slip differential, it wouldn't screw up the xDrive. I'm pretty concerned about this b/c I don't know if the car had an LSD, and hope that nothing's wrong with the awd when I get this car back. If there is a problem, I'm going to have to duke it out with the tow guy.



The mechanic was shocked that I decided to take off the tranny oil pan. He said that he would never do this. I said that this is standard operating procedure when replacing the transmission oil, since the filter is built into the pan. He also was unfamiliar with the mechatronic sealing sleeve. Obvious red flags.



He said that he doesn't really enjoy working on the BMWs, and brings in a moonlighting technician from the local dealer when a problem arises with a BMW. That will be the case for me. $130/hr., , this is why I began working on my car in the first place.



All in all, I'm less than 50% confident that my car can be fixed. The car won't start and had multiple transmission error codes show up on the scanning tool. I must've done something to the wiring harness connecting pins when I took-out/inserted in the sleeve and wiring harness. I don't know how since I had hardly any room to maneuver and thus could barely apply any force to the stuff (except for the collar that I mangled).



I'll keep you guys abreast of what they find, but I don't expect a call from the mechanic for at least a few days.
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  #18  
Old 06-15-2020, 06:07 PM
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Nooo!! Run away now. You cannot tow work 2 wheels on the ground, you absolutely need to flatbed it. I mean you're not even supposed to run different tire size from front to back due to potential issues. I think BMW says <2 or 3 % size difference, don't quote me on that. I feel your pain, I have done many a jobs that resulted in a much bigger headache that I originally planned on. In my view, this is just more experience for when you encouter the next unplanned issue. Seriously though, you can buy a good lower mile transmission and valve body/tcu for far less that what you will pay someone to fix this. And I guarantee you shops are just as capable of causing more problems while trying to repair. Good luck, I know this can be stressful.
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  #19  
Old 06-15-2020, 06:23 PM
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  #20  
Old 06-16-2020, 07:53 AM
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kuhllax24 - Of course we care! If we're perusing the diy type posts, then that most likely means we do that sort of thing ourselves. And if we're into diy repairs, sooner or later something like this will happen. It's frustrating and humbling, but it does make the ultimate fix all the sweeter.

Pardon the existential tangential reference: I remember reading a book called Moments of Doubt about mountain climbing. The author writes of the pleasure of overcoming the "moment of doubt" in a climb where he is uncertain about his chance of success. The pleasure of overcoming the moment of doubt makes up for all the angst and/or occasional failure. A lot of times I feel the same way with car repairs.

Looks like you are backing away from this repair, and I understand. But just for overall knowledge here are a couple of posts you might find interesting. Even though these are on the 6HP transmission I think they still have some general relevance. This link has some interesting posts. Posts 18-20 detail some diy "fails" so that you don't feel like you're the only one having troubles. Post 22 has a great pdf link from the Calif. Trans. Supply Comp. - worth looking at even though it is the 6HP. In particular, they make the point about how the gap between the wiring harness and the mechatronic sleeve should be no more than 2.5 - 3 mm. And of course reading the entire post BabyUnicornTaco has a couple of initial failures and moments of doubt before Ultimate Success.

Another interesting link is here. Here the relevant part of the posting is that the AC condensate drain comes out just above the wiring harness/mechatronic sleeve connection. As I mentioned earlier one of my Moments Of Doubt was seeing that AC condensate drain and thinking it was transmission fluid. So I did the repair all over again - unnecessarily.

Sorry about the Tow of Shame - but now you're In The Club!

Good luck and hope it gets sorted with less cost and suffering than feared.

Stephen
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Stephen
2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2
2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1
2018 G01 M40i - now driven by me
2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife
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