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#1
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Hello, It's been a while. Even though we are in summer here are a few pictures with the winter wheels on. They look great and the tires fills the wheels well nicely. They do slightly rub in the front on a full lock so I bought 25 mm spacers so I can swap the current 20mm in the rear up in front.
Also changed my side turn signal to LED sequentials. I did a small video to demonstrate them. You can check it out here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNGx...E70Rudy%27sE70 ![]() More good things to come. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Check out this nice WRX wide body
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#2
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Looking good. I picked up a ‘12 E70 35i last fall and it has been a great addition to our family. 182k miles, now 188k. I’ve done A LOT of repairs and preventative maintenance to get it back up to good health and now moving on to mods. First completed mod- eibach lowering springs. I noticed the truck leaning one day, found a broken rear spring and decided it was a good excuse to lower it slightly. Ill post pics once the springs have settled and the truck is clean. So far, handles great, has a slight rake, and has a noticeable reduction in wheel gap (I have factory 19”) compared to another E70 side by side. Next up, wheels and potentially spacers.
I need to get a new lift gate button! I didn’t know they could be replaced one by one. Thanks for posting that. |
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#3
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Curious on the drop with the 19". Post a picture. I personally love the height and have had my low days so it's staying as it is ![]() Also check out your rear tail light. if you have condensation you could end up with a rusted bulb socket so keep an eye on that and change the seal if needed. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#4
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It’s a very long list of work! A big chunk was redoing the whole cooling system minus the 3 hoses that go to the heater core(s). Radiator (leaking), electric water pump (failed), thermostat, and every hose I could get. Then oil leaks- OFHG, valve cover, VANOS solenoids. Plugs, coils, valvetronic motor and shaft. Fuel injectors.. the list goes on.
AND! That pesky ground strap. Mine didn’t break but it looked really bad and I was having some charging system issues so that was a good place to start. Good call replacing it with copper. I bet that was far less than oem ($56). I’ll post some pictures soon. It’s a very mild drop (~40mm) which is why I decided to go that route. I’ve lowered every car I’ve owned but always only slight drops. Had a set of coil overs on one car and never maxed them out- it’s not really my style. |
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#5
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I don’t know if it’s your spacers or just wheel size but your wheel gap looks very close to mine. Here’s one I took next to an F15. If you study it for a moment you can see the difference
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#6
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The wheels are massive, 295/20 in front and 315/20 in the rear. Still the most fuel efficient car I have ever owned when tires will be done I think I will bump up the front profile from 40 to 45 and the rear to 35/40 to get even a smoother ride and gap fitmentThe spacers do help quite a bite to fill in the gap. The wheels being flush with the fenders does that illusion I believe. On an other note I did receive this today in the mail. 4x4 shop's android head unit. Big upgrade, I will be able to play music threw Bluetooth, USB and have a backup camera. Having the GPS app on there will be perfect. Also this Panavise phone mount. Shipping was expensive... It fixes next to the climate control and I do think it is one of the cleanest options. Ill send photos when installed Now I just need to find the best way to pass the backup camera cable. I'll have to dig up some info on that otherwise I hope to get it done this weekend. ![]()
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#7
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As far as your backup cam goes, if it’s a license plate mounted camera, that will be a challenge. But with the rear hatch trim removed, you should be able to pass the wire through the rubber tube with the other wiring. Then most of the vehicle electrical travels on the passenger side of the truck, over the wheel arch and then down along the door sill to the front.
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#8
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I've disassembled the rear trunk door to check out the wiring and it does go up the rubber tube. Just wondering if I have to remove the top liner to pass the cable? I am reluctant to the idea. I've seen a video on a E53 where they simply tuck the cable in the back of the rubber seal. I guess the best bet will be to remove and go on the fly. For sure will let you know how I works and runs once it is done! |
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#9
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The unit has been installed for about two weeks. Took about 3-4 hours over a few days to get the job done when I could. I now finally finished my little tutorial video for anyone who would like to try it by themselves.
YT video https://youtu.be/8Md0Ojg1bW0 So far I like how it operates. The screen is nice and bright and everything works as it should. The mic is better then the built in OEM of the X5. I might ultimately buy a better microphone eventually just to make it even better. It has the lower Qualcomm Snapdragon Android 10- 2G RAM + 32G ROM (4 Core) with 10.25 inch display and works just fine for using music app and GPS. The rear camera is clean and works great at night as well. I still look back when backing up but it comes in handy when parallel parking in the city. It takes about 20 seconds to boot the unit up on startup. Definitely a huge upgrade form the 6 inch screen. Bluetooth and USB port makes it so much more handy. The user interface is alright and blends in well with the rest of the dash board! ![]() ![]() Sitting pretty and dirty!
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