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  #11  
Old 03-29-2009, 10:29 AM
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you should really change your oil every 7500 miles.
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  #12  
Old 03-29-2009, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldmystang
you should really change your oil every 7500 miles.

oh boy.... here we go....


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  #13  
Old 03-29-2009, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genew
I thought that same way until I was lucky enough to have a large bolt enter my runflat ( Ha! ) on a rainy evening during heavy traffic on the interstate. Temp was 33 and I was forever thankful I had the runflats. Never thought I'd say this but think I'll put runflats back on when my originals are dead.
I totally agree, happened to me as well in rainy weather, a screw was stuck in there, thanks to the runflat, we were able to get home and then got the RFTs repaired at a shop the next day. I definitely realized the value of RFTs and will get them again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by genew
I originally said I'd never buy a 70 after two 53's because of all the electronics but I did and I'm happy I did!! Have 20k on mine now and I hope Deutsch doesn't see this but have been to the shop one time to drain oil at 1200 miles.....just not one problem as I drained my own oil at 10000 miles so have not been back to the shop. Still don't like all the electronics but am happy with the 70!!
I am thinking of changing oil myself, concerned about how easy it is to get under the car to remove the lug and drain it? Then the issue of disposal? Worth the time and effort?
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2009, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep
I totally agree, happened to me as well in rainy weather, a screw was stuck in there, thanks to the runflat, we were able to get home and then got the RFTs repaired at a shop the next day. I definitely realized the value of RFTs and will get them again.



I am thinking of changing oil myself, concerned about how easy it is to get under the car to remove the lug and drain it? Then the issue of disposal? Worth the time and effort?
Well some guys on here say it's easy to slide under without help but they must be thinner than I am. I use ramps and dispose of the oil locally at a shop. On the 4.8 everything is the same as the E 53 except the filter element has changed ( not the housing ). I send a sample into Blackstone labs everytime I change it.
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2009, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep
I am thinking of changing oil myself, concerned about how easy it is to get under the car to remove the lug and drain it? Then the issue of disposal? Worth the time and effort?
i wrote a thread on oil change DIY. it's really easy, with the right tools.
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2009, 07:41 PM
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considering oil changes with filter, labor and synth oil is some crazy number like $150+ outside of the maintenance contract, it may be worth it to learn to change it yourself if you keep it past 4 years. Now... to find that DIY thread...
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  #17  
Old 03-29-2009, 07:44 PM
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> Then the issue of disposal?


A lot of auto stores, like autozone, pep boys, etc. accept used oil. If your doesn't, then:

Earth911.com - Find Recycling Centers and Learn How To Recycle
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  #18  
Old 03-29-2009, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rh71
considering oil changes with filter, labor and synth oil is some crazy number like $150+ outside of the maintenance contract, it may be worth it to learn to change it yourself if you keep it past 4 years. Now... to find that DIY thread...
There is a good DIY on Oil Changes for an E53 4.4 in the article section, engines, page 2. Everything is the same for an E70 4.8. The only difference as far as I know is the filter element but the housing and wrench sizes are the same. Don't know about the 6.
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  #19  
Old 03-29-2009, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penguin
> Then the issue of disposal?


A lot of auto stores, like autozone, pep boys, etc. accept used oil. If your doesn't, then:

Earth911.com - Find Recycling Centers and Learn How To Recycle
Wal-Mart also accepts used oil if they have an auto center.

Craig
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  #20  
Old 03-29-2009, 08:08 PM
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well i also changed the oil on my 4.8i on saturday. it is relatively easy.

step one is to get the truck of the ground. you don't want to be trying to squeeze under for this job. i have access to a lift but i am sure it can be done with ramps.

step two, remove the drain plug from the oil filter housing which is under the truck. an allen wrench is required. will have to check for the size. allow oil filter housing to drain. replace rubber gasket on plug.

step three, replace oil filter housing drain plug. remove oil filter housing cap. again ??mm socket to accomplish this. replace rubber gasket on cap. replace filter, reinstall cap.

step four, remove oil pan plug with allen wrench ??mm. this was a PITA as i rounded the hole and will need a new plug once the dealer does the next change. it is an aluminum plug. i had to put a T50 into the hole to remove the plug. BMW engineering, ugh. drain oil. replace brass washer, reinstall plug.

step five, fill with Castrol 5/30 syntech or BMW Brand oil. 8.5 qts. US

sorry this is not a more inclusive DIY, but wanted to give ya'll an idea of the process. with the exception of the aluminum plug this was a pretty straightforward process. there are 2 openings in the skid plate under the front axle for the filter and the oil pan drain plug (which shares an opening with the front diff drain plug).
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