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  #71  
Old 04-07-2015, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imalabil View Post
Got my car back (finally) with a new FP and evap valve.
Did your warranty cover the pump and valve?
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  #72  
Old 04-07-2015, 02:03 PM
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When my motor mounts went, the engine sat noticeably lower. Park you car next to another X5 with the hoods up and see if the engine is sitting where it should be. Generally they also make a pretty good mess when they fail with the oil seeping out.
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  #73  
Old 04-07-2015, 06:22 PM
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Got the car back with a new fuel pump and connector. The connector body is a different color, not black like the original. Warranty paid for the pump but not the connector! They did not find the source of the idle noise in drive. I'm not thrilled.
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  #74  
Old 04-08-2015, 11:45 AM
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You probably got the blue connector housing that I got. It's a sort of "non-polarized" generic replacement, I think. Works for the left or right connector, whereas the originals do not. Means you have to be careful to put it back in the right place if you disconnect them for any reason.
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  #75  
Old 04-08-2015, 09:51 PM
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I didn't look to see if it was keyed, I just plugged it back in. I talked to the dealer - he did not work on the truck but did sell the pump and, importantly to me, the other items that their TSB covered for this issue. My concern is that it will happen again, but it sounds like BMW has a fix.

I still plan to complain on their website. They should not be messing around with this, in cars that are only a few years old.

Can they say risk management? After the GM ignition switch debacle, they ought to be paying attention. My opinion is that this is FAR more of a risk.
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  #76  
Old 04-13-2015, 01:05 AM
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Got my new heavier wire lead in and completed the permanent installation today. Soldered the new leads to the vehicle harness and taped up securely. Soldered so that I won't have to worry about some twisted wires coming apart later.

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Here is a pic of the the new (blue, left), and old (black, right) connectors. Note that in the pic I only had one of the two required connector pins/wire leads inserted into the blue housing. You have to buy the housing and the two required leads (which each come with a connector pin and a little rubber grommet pre-assembled), meaning you have three separate parts to order: the housing and two leads. The metal pin of each lead snaps into the housing and clicks into place, and doesn't come back out.

The un-inserted lead shown laying between the two connectors happens to not have the grommet on it in this photo, but it does come with one pre-assembled on it. I won't bother to explain here why the one in the photo does not have one on it. Reason I mention is that the dealer parts guy said I would have to order the grommets separately, and that I would have to order a bunch of them just to get the two that I needed. I said we'll skip the grommets. Figured I could just fish the old ones out of the old connector, or find a way to get by without them. Then, they wound up being included.

If you look closely, you can see the top of one of the grommets (yellow) in the new (blue) housing.

The CEL has not gone off by itself. Autozone said they would not clear the code out due to store policy. I think it was really b/c it was raining when I asked them. Guess I can't blame them. They said I could clear it by undoing the battery cable. We'll see, if I can find the cable!
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  #77  
Old 04-13-2015, 01:17 AM
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It is 21st century now, you cannot clear codes by disconnecting the battery
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  #78  
Old 04-13-2015, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bawareca View Post
It is 21st century now, you cannot clear codes by disconnecting the battery
Yes, but you can delete all your radio pre-sets.
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  #79  
Old 04-13-2015, 09:09 PM
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Does anyone have the part numbers for the connector and leads or will the BMW parts counter guy be helpful.

Also, is the rear seat removal easy?
thank you
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  #80  
Old 04-13-2015, 09:34 PM
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As for rear seat, removal is easy.
Its the re installation that is a bit challenging.

Simply; pull up on the back seat right at forward side of the seat behind driver and passenger seats. So, two sides of the seat, and pull up. This will disconnect the seat from the clips. At this time move seat forward and off the body (bench)

Once you have the seat out of the way the other thing you will not like dealing with is the carpet and the padding underneath.
What I did with my carpeting is cut it. As in I cut a straight line in the carpet on the outsides of both of the pump assemblies.
This allowed me to roll the carpet forward and work on the pump and top of fuel tank easily.
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