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  #11  
Old 05-25-2013, 11:45 AM
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The harness is held by a large metal bracket. Use a flat head and push upward and pull forward. It pretty tough but once you have it out you can see how its held together. The 4th picture with the the red circle shows the metal bracket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarola View Post
Step 1: Start by removing the center engine cover by unscrewing 4 hex bolts using a ratcheting wrench. The furthest inside hex bolts was the most difficult one to access as there is virtually no room on the 3.0. I had to remove the clip that was holding a pair of wires to gain access for a small ratcheting wrench.

How did you remove the clip for the pair or wires? I cant seem to figure it out.

Thanks!
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Last edited by balx5; 05-25-2013 at 01:48 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-25-2013, 01:09 PM
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Thanks! I actually just muscled it off. What a pain! Thanks. Number 6 was a pain in the ass!
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  #13  
Old 05-25-2013, 04:49 PM
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at what point are we supposed to do / expect spark plug replacement? Didn't see it in the manual.
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  #14  
Old 07-05-2014, 05:37 PM
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Great write up.

I used it today to change my plugs.

I found it best to remove the lower air filter housing.

It just sits on 4 grommets. (Just let the upper hang there.)

I couldn't get the plastic engine cover off without doing this.

It took a lot of effort to loosen the spark plugs.

About a million times more than the amount of torque to tighten them.

So I used a small amount of aluminum anti-sieze on each.

Number 6 is a real B****!!!!
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  #15  
Old 07-06-2014, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordshin808 View Post
Why is applying anti-seize on the plugs NOT recommended? I thought the you're suppose to apply it so the plugs don't get stuck in there.
The spec was on my spear plug box. It was right next to the gap spec.

22 lb/ft. Or is that ft/lb
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  #16  
Old 10-13-2014, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt_texan View Post
Great write up.

I used it today to change my plugs.

I found it best to remove the lower air filter housing.

It just sits on 4 grommets. (Just let the upper hang there.)

I couldn't get the plastic engine cover off without doing this.

It took a lot of effort to loosen the spark plugs.

About a million times more than the amount of torque to tighten them.

So I used a small amount of aluminum anti-sieze on each.

Number 6 is a real B****!!!!
Yeah, many thanks to OP for the great write up. It helped a bunch in replacing spark plugs on my E70 today.

Regardless, you still need to learn few things through experience. It definitely made it easier after removing the lower air filter housing.

I used scrap 3/4" copper pipes as an extension to loosen the spark plugs. It was pretty easy with the extension.

Also, I did apply "dielectric silicone grease" to prevent rubber boots from seizing onto the spark plugs, however nothing on the threads.

Applies the silicone grease onto the threads of the hex bolts holding the engine cover. I had more trouble with those than the spark plugs. Unlike OP, I could not detach the wires above the engine cover. Those were seized shut, any hints on pulling them out?

Anyway, took 2+ hours. I planned to spend <1 hour originally.
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  #17  
Old 07-05-2015, 05:17 PM
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I did this on my 08 E70, but it was impossible to get to #5 and #6 without removing the microfilters housing and the plastic casing that runs along the top of the firewall. Overall it took about an hour.
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  #18  
Old 07-06-2015, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHL08 View Post
I did this on my 08 E70, but it was impossible to get to #5 and #6 without removing the microfilters housing and the plastic casing that runs along the top of the firewall. Overall it took about an hour.
Couldn't have agreed more. After spending hours trying to sneak between the bulk head and the engine itself, I finally figure this out. Still recovering from the sore back and wrist I got when attempting the sneaking action.
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  #19  
Old 07-06-2015, 09:15 PM
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I did mine about 4 months ago, and made a fatal error... the new plugs were gapped to about 0.040" and I figured since it must be a high energy ignition system, that should be fine. Couldn't find a gap spec anywhere online, so left them there. Started and ran ok, until you put your foot in it, and then, major bucking from misfiring. Long story short, because it's a turbo, something closer to 0.025" seems to work much better. Ard may have better info on this than I do, but I settled on 0.025" after having the plugs in and out about 3 or 4 times. I did get to the point where I could change all 6 in about an hour. Practice makes perfect! Or at least faster.
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  #20  
Old 07-10-2016, 04:31 PM
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Changed my plugs and all the ignition coil packs today - thanks for the great DIY. Judging by the condition of the plugs I don't think they've ever been changed - 107k miles on vehicle currently.
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