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  #91  
Old 02-06-2018, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wahooz View Post
Thx gregg....yes, using magnet to pull the keepers off the valve once compressed. The challenge is getting them back on for those last two valves as it's difficult to get a good view of the top of the valve so that I can guide the keeper tool onto the valve stem.

I'll have to look into the tip on moving the engine forward....appreciate the feedback as always-
I'd call AGA and ask for advice. They are great in helping out a customer.

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  #92  
Old 02-11-2018, 01:09 AM
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excellent writeup on the valley pan gasket and the coolant pipe. took me about 8 hours total, but then I'm already familiar enough with this damn engine that I wasn't going through it the first time.

RE the valve stem seals; I did mine at 107K. it was a serious PITA, but I did not remove the engine or raise/lower it. with some luck and quite a few 4 letter words I got the last few seals in place
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  #93  
Old 12-16-2020, 10:19 AM
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Question about pressurize the system

I’m about to do valley pan what do you mean by waiting 3 ours to pressurize the system
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  #94  
Old 12-16-2020, 02:26 PM
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I sealed my original valley pan with rubberized Silicone sold as “The Right Stuff”. I cleaned out the original factory seal and used The Right Stuff in its place. You would need to allow it time to dry before pressure testing.
When Pressure testing if you choose to check for leaks prior to assembly Do not use more than 30 PSI or you risk blowing out perfectly good seals in your engine. I knew a guy that decided to test with water pressure from his garden hose, it blew out the water pump seal, a garden hose can have 60+ PSI so if you test be careful. I am 4 years past this repair now with no problems or coolant leaks but one valve cover has just started slow leaking again dang it. At least it is passenger side, not quite as hard to fix.

Last edited by Westlotorn; 12-17-2020 at 04:42 PM.
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