35d: adding crankcase breather oil separator

[Deftronix]

Really appreciate all the time and effort you put into this and then sharing it. Makes so much sense to have something like this installed. The drain tee'd into the dip stick line is ingenious!

I want to do everything I can to reduce carbon build-up and this seems like a perfect way to remove the "binding agent" from the mix, not to mention having multiple other benefits. Amazing how much oil was pulled out within 2K!

The hose that sgr posted didnt seem too bad considering it was for 5m/16ft. Since you used less than 5' I should have plenty left over and would be more than happy to send some down your way once I tackle the project.

[sgrice]

Deftronix - 1) Yes, I drilled the three relief holes just as described by ZetaTre. 2) Not a big deal, but the price for the hose is a bit more than you think. The website is somewhat confusing/misleading, but the actual price is $35 per "0.2 Qty = 1 meter." So you'll need 2 meters = $70.00. With shipping/handling I think it was right around $80 total.

Otherwise I'll merely repeat that the system seems to be working great. No issues at all. I was doing some preventative maintenance a few weeks ago, and there was none of the sticky, tar-like CBU I had in the past on the EGR valve, and no liquid oil in front of the throttle/anti-shudder valve. Consequently, I assume the intake manifold, valves, and swirl flaps are similarly in good shape.

Good Luck!

[Deftronix]

Haha, guess I was being optimistic when I read the .2 qty = 1m and the fact that the part # had 5m in it. Thanks for the clarification.

[ZetaTre]

Originally Posted by Deftronix

Haha, guess I was being optimistic when I read the .2 qty = 1m and the fact that the part # had 5m in it. Thanks for the clarification.

Btw, I posted the length of the hoses I used based on the location where I put the separator. You may want to send a message to the supplier sgrice used and see what they get back to you with.

There's a few other alternatives, like the Gates hoses someone else suggested.

Also, McMaster sells plastic flexible conduits that could very well fit the application. But like I said there's nothing wrong with the hose I used and it's rated for oil. All I can tell you is that coolant hoses will not resist. Not to mention they are bulky and somewhat rigid since they are design to hold a certain pressure (something you really don't need for this application)

[ZetaTre]

The latest hose I used end up failing on me again. It's always the side that goes from the valve cover the the Provent: the oil eventually eats through the rubber.

This time around the hose teared and with time oil smeared everywhere.

I pulled the trigger and spent the 80 bucks to get the same hose that sgrice bought from Patrick Motorsport.

Other than that the system continue to perform very well: the line going from the separator to the intake is completely dry.

[seattle]

Question about check valve for returning oil into dip stick: is there a particular strength (other specs?) that should be used?

Can I, please, get specs and source?

Is there some minimal distance between ProVent housing and check valve to create pressure?

I used a rather large one (good 3 inches in length!) that was locally sourced. Today, after some 100 miles, I saw ProVent housing has a pool of oil at the bottom - it was clearly not being returned.

Worse, the check valve was leaking oil that was standing in the tube.
Tube after check valve was confirmed to be completely clean and dry - oil was never there.

So, I have a valve inappropriate for the job, it seems.

On the same topic: how much pressure is coming back up into dip stick from sump pan? After removing the non-working check valve and replacing it temporarily with a catch can, I then covered the short hose that connects to the tee (the tee is attached to the dip stick, just like ZetaTre and sgrice did).

After a short drive, I observed surprisingly large amount of oil came out of that and made the undercarriage messy. Never thought there was any pressure there! Or, perhaps the tee is too close to oil line in the sump?

[Edit] Reading about oil sump pressure: a lot of topics about sump pressure (some is expected, but not much) have to do with Crank Case Ventilation malfunctioning).

Will take a better look on Monday.

[sgrice]

As ZetaTre reported in post #9, diesel-filters.com is a good supply source. The check valve can be found by using tabs to "Browse By," then "Manufacturer," then to "Mann Filter." The check valve is sku:2400843621, or a direct link is here.

I don't know how much sump pressure should be expected. The best discussion of sump pressure and check valve placement that I found is between 3:00 and 3:30 on this YouTube video. Not a whole lot of detail, but that is the best I could find.

Hope that helps.

Stephen

[seattle]

Originally Posted by sgrice

As ZetaTre reported in post #9, diesel-filters.com is a good supply source. The check valve can be found by using tabs to "Browse By," then "Manufacturer," then to "Mann Filter." The check valve is sku:2400843621, or a direct link is here.

I don't know how much sump pressure should be expected. The best discussion of sump pressure and check valve placement that I found is between 3:00 and 3:30 on this YouTube video. Not a whole lot of detail, but that is the best I could find.

Hope that helps.

Stephen

Thanks, Stephen. Placed an order on that check valve, should be here on Tuesday.

[seattle]

Update.
The check valve arrived and got installed. After >500 miles, no problems.
Opened ProVent, seeing the filter is doing its work and no puddles at the bottom.

[seattle]

To support ProVent is a good idea.
Reading Diesel Technolgy document provided by user Doug Huffman

A couple places suggest that oil puddles at at oil turbo intake may lead to over-revving condition (diesel engine runaway).

Page 43

When making repairs which concern malfunctions of the crankcase ventilation system. Or, if any repairs are made to a turbocharger which has leaked oil into the engine, be sure to remove any residual oil in the intake air system.

Failure to do so may result in an engine over-rev situation causing irreparable engine damage. In this case, the warranty may be affected.

Page 93

The throttle valve also serves the additional function of effectively preventing over-revving of the engine. If the DDE detects over-revving without an increase in the injection volume, the throttle valve will close in order to limit the engine speed. This situation can occur as the result of combustible substances
entering the combustion chamber. Substances may be engine oil from an exhaust turbocharger with bearing damage.

yes, throttle body valve essentially prevents runaway should it occur, but nevertheless.

In my case, there was a puddle of blowby oil sitting right before turbo blades.