35d: adding crankcase breather oil separator

[seattle]

Originally Posted by daytonatrbo

Glad to hear!!

I assume, given the function and location of the intercooler, it's possible that there is a relatively large quantity of oil trapped in it. Even with no addition of oil from the turbos you may continue to see it in the intake.

The intercooler and both pipes were soaked and washed, intercooler properly drained, of course. So, that oil/soot is new I think.

[seattle]

Thought I would mention something related to ProVent behavior after starting and taking for a spin my newly EGR/DPF/SCR deleted X5D.

Before deleting, I was running ProVent since January 2017. It looked to be doing its job separating oil from blowby - the return hose was always clear and free of oil.

In January-February of this year, I did a big project:
1. Replaced both turbos, suspected as culprit of severe oil leaks.
2. Deleted and tuned out: EGR, DPF, SCR.
3. Added a "normal" diesel cat (DOC).
4. Cleaned intercooler, pipes, intake.

At the same time, modified my ProVent setup, as I feel it was not quite what was recommended in this thread.
1. Replaced my hoses that while oil resistant, were softer than shoud have been with these (sgrice post)
2. Made the 3 holes larger, to match size (on photos) as ZetaTre's recommendation. My 3 holes were a little smaller.

So, after taking the x5d for a spirited drive, observed fumes coming out off the top of ProVent relief valve while idling.
Removed filter element and with mirror, confirmed the side valve is stuck closed. So, due to higher sucking powers of the new turbo and tune, that valve got stuck closed - exactly what ZetaTre predicted happens when he tested!

On the other hand, I observed the spring of the valve is not able to retract it quick and all the way.

So, decided to not drill more holes and instead stretch the spring.
After stretching, the valve retracted much more readily and farther.

Put it all together, did more testing and haven't observed fumes coming out of top relief valve.

Question: what is the function of that side valve anyway? It seems that it does nothing good in our case.

The rubber boot around the valve introduces a lot of friction, making the spring work harder. By design?

[boredincl]

Thanks for the info Seattle, I recent did the ABC delete as well, but also installed the ProVent per the sgrice diy. On the first drive I had a oily mess because apparently I accidentally knocked the top cap loose while I was finishing the install. It really surprised me how much oil was around since i only drove a few miles. the next trip was a bit harder and then 10 miles of hwy driving. while on the hwy I checked the oil level through the DIS and is showed low when i just did a change. I stopped and checked it via the dip stick and the level was fine, while stopped i also checked again with the DIS and is showed normal as well. I was wondering if the increased boost from the new tune was somehow causing the ProVent to cycle oil through and into the pan?
I unhooked the ProVent for now, but will be re-connecting after i replace the exhaust manifold due to #1 port wrapped. it really upsets me because i know it was when i put it back together, but thought the new gaskets would still seal it up.
Anyway... your thoughts on the oil level indication change?
As a side note i very seldom us the DIS to check the level so maybe its just always acted like that and i just never noticed it.

[seattle]

Originally Posted by boredincl

Anyway... your thoughts on the oil level indication change?
As a side note i very seldom us the DIS to check the level so maybe its just always acted like that and i just never noticed it.

You drilled holes like suggested by ZetaTre, correct? 5 is too many, 3 is correct to get turbo sucking just right amount when filtering.

In my case, before ABC deletes, that was just fine, but increased suction from turbo after deletes, paired with weakened valve spring, caused the valve to close and fumes nowhere to go but through top cap relief valve.

If oil (not just fumes) get sucked into provent somehow, easy way to check is the hose INTO Provent. Normally, the hose would have a thin oily film, but if any oil was passing through, it would be covered in it from inside.

Originally Posted by boredincl

i replace the exhaust manifold due to #1 port wrapped. it really upsets me because i know it was when i put it back together, but thought the new gaskets would still seal it up.

I have an exhaust manifold off a 50K mile x5d laying around in my garage.
Salvage yard where I got the HP turbo was too lazy to separate, so gave me both turbos and exhaust manifold together.
PM me if interested.

[boredincl]

Originally Posted by seattle

You drilled holes like suggested by ZetaTre, correct? 5 is too many, 3 is correct to get turbo sucking just right amount when filtering.

In my case, before ABC deletes, that was just fine, but increased suction from turbo after deletes, paired with weakened valve spring, caused the valve to close and fumes nowhere to go but through top cap relief valve.

If oil (not just fumes) get sucked into provent somehow, easy way to check is the hose INTO Provent. Normally, the hose would have a thin oily film, but if any oil was passing through, it would be covered in it from inside.


I have an exhaust manifold off a 50K mile x5d laying around in my garage.
Salvage yard where I got the HP turbo was too lazy to separate, so gave me both turbos and exhaust manifold together.
PM me if interested.

I did drill only 3 holes as per DIY. Good point on the amount of oil in the inlet tube, it was oily, but not like a lot had flowed through, but more then just mist, although it has 170k miles so it may have more blow-by then normal.


I will reconnect everything, monitor and then stretch the spring as you have done. Thanks for the offer to sell your extra manifold, but I just bought a used manifold on Friday. #1 port on it is warped away from the head ever so slightly as well when checked with a straight edge, but much less then mine and is something I can take out with mild plaining... I think.

[Mainiac]

Originally Posted by boredincl

Thanks for the info Seattle, I recent did the ABC delete as well, but also installed the ProVent per the sgrice diy....
I unhooked the ProVent for now, but will be re-connecting after i replace the exhaust manifold due to #1 port wrapped. it really upsets me because i know it was when i put it back together, but thought the new gaskets would still seal it up.

Is there a separate thread on this warped manifold issue? Tune related ? Also looking at getting a tune in the near future, but don’t want to replace parts because of it.

Have people been having problems with the factory CCV with tuned engines? I am planning on keeping the factory system and adding a provent using a fan powered secondary loop, much like Soldberg does for their industrial CCV filters

[boredincl]

The tune is unrelated to the warped manifold. I have known my manifold was warped for the last 3 years when I found both exhaust bolts on #1 cylinder were broken.
As for the ProVent and issues after tune Seattle summarized it earlier in this thread, although I’m not sure I would call it an issue or just something to be aware of and make the necessary adjustments.

[AlpineD]

Need this badly

[ZetaTre]

Originally Posted by seattle

Question: what is the function of that side valve anyway? It seems that it does nothing good in our case.

The rubber boot around the valve introduces a lot of friction, making the spring work harder. By design?

The valve is meant to avoid excessive vacuum to be pulled from the crankcase. High vacuum as well as pressure are both bad for the crank seals, more so vacuum because what would happen is dust getting pulled past the crank seals, damaging crank journals.

That's part of the reason why I left it there. In addition, from a practical perspective, the valve is also the seal of the exit cavity so if you remove it it would leak air.

Since I'm here: 90,000 miles on the ProVent setup and still working beautifully. The hoses from the Porsche tuner work beautifully

[DoubleA98391]

I know this is an old thread, but I am getting ready to do the same thing on my 2009 X5. I have a question about drilling holes in the Provent 200 valve. I can't figure out how to disassemble it to drill the holes.

I am also curious why a takeoff plate is needed. Someone else asked why but unfortunately didn't get a response.