Any DIY to replace Solar Censor on E70

[freshwater]

The FAN is running like a Rocket engine, Never run like that before or even hardly run.
They saw codes thrown from solar sensor and they pretty sure its the SSensor.
So may be the ECU getting input from a Bad Solar Sensor to Run the Fan at Max High ??

[ard]

What is With the CaPiTaLiZaTiOns???

What "codes"? Who are "they"? and if "they" are wrong will "they" be paying for the solar sensor?

I think you are barking up the wrong tree: http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktio...hmentId=701292

The solar sensor does NOT control the fan speed. It is a small component of the overall fan control. IMO

[bawareca]

The fan has it's own control module that controls the speed of the fan depending on the value(voltage) send by the ECU.The fan will run on full speed in ONLY 2 occasions:
-ECU has a fault code related to cooling,engine or transmission safe(limp) mode activated
-communication between the fan and the ECU is lost(usually bad or dead ECU)
Even if you remove the solar sensor and everything else is Ok ,the fa will not run at full speed.

[freshwater]

"they" means the indy shop who specialize in BMW repairs, they have all the eqp and SW to troubleshoot BMW. I have used them in the past and they were very reliable so far with their diagnosis with my other problems in last 4 yrs . They saw codes thrown from the solar sensor " I did not ask them what were the code # and they did not tell me either" . Indy shop think its due to solar sensor that aux fan keep running high. ( my personal logic is they are wrong and after reading everything about the solar sensor its hard to believe that can control the aux fan speed. I dont believe they will pay for the sensor if that didnt fix the issue, I did ask them and they told me they are very confident thats the issue. They asking me ~$400 for the complete job part + labor. Part is ~$212 plus tax from the Dealer rest is 1.5 hr labor and they will warranty the work. If i do myself I can get the same part for ~$150 from 2 Dealers in USA with no Tax. If its just popping the sensor out it wont take me more then 20 min to finish the job.

But I am still not convince this will fix the issue and so still reluctant to buy the part.
I was thinking to remove the sensor and see if fan stop running that might be a clue if sensor sending some wrong signal to the IHKA.

I agree dosent seems like solar sensor is causing it.. The SAV is running good, cooling is good, no lights for engine heating, not going in any limp mode, 40+ speed I dont hear the Fan and car runs very smooth with all its V8 power. It has 4 zone climate control system..

[freshwater]

I remove the DC power to the Solar sensor but the aux fan still keep running. not sure if that proves that its not the solar sensor or i need to reset the fault codes which i have no way to do it.

[freshwater]

Is this could be the real culprit.
Pressure Sensor via Junction Box
The refrigerant pressure input signal is a direct junction box input signal and is relayed to
the IHKA via the K-CAN. The IHKA requests actuation of the auxiliary blower by the DME
(ECM) depending on the refrigerant pressure.
The IHKA determines the relevant A/C compressor load torque on the basis of the input
signals from the pressure sensor and the compressor speed. The DME (ECM) control
units are notified of the load torques by the IHKA and used by the DME (ECM) as input
variables for actuating the electric fan.

[bawareca]

You dont want to listen what people tell you,but you fully trust the shop that did the diagnostic.There may be many reasons for the fan running at full speed and without diagnostic you will go nowhere.The shop was supposed to run "actual values" and "actuations" for the ECU and AAC to figure out what is requesting the fan and why.

[freshwater]

I would rather sell or trade in this car then take to a Stealership. The Indy Shop is acting like a Stealership too and I lost trust in them also. For Last 6 yrs If I start adding my Invoices for all the Warranty, CPO and maintenance work done on this car it easily crosses $12k. I think I will keep driving with the Fan running we dont drive more then 500 miles per month and will trade in for a new leased SUV by next Spring. No more owning the cars better to lease for 3 yrs and dont worry about any issues.

I had an X3 leased for 3 yrs 2005-2007 it only went to dealer shop 3 times to get the schedule Oil Change nothing else, then I decided to buy X5 in 2007 to replace the X3 and drop $83k on this piece of Junk made in NC. X3 I believe was made in Austria.

Also had a 2007 335i sport made in Austria too. Put 110k miles on it and only issue was the Twin Turbo and HPFP which were replaced under warranty around 60k. Great car no other issues except regular maintenance . Decided to trade in for another car since don't want to take chances after 110k.

You folks were all Great with your suggestions thanks for your Help.

[bawareca]

It takes 30 minutes to a skilled person with DIS/ISTA to diagnose the problem with the fan.I am sure there are more than few of those people in your area that do what I do(mobile diagnostics and repair,no overhead expenses to cover)or even at least one shop with a knowledgeable and honest people.There may be a more serious problem with the drivetrain and the fan only the telltale sign not the problem itself.
There is definitely a difference between the cars built in the US and Germany,but also '07 could be the worst year for having E70.

[neilrmp]

I had to replace the clear rubber from under the solar/rain sensor, you don't have to replace the entire windshield as mention, this sensor is for your auto headlight and sensing rain for your wipers to work on auto. Ista/Isis can check to see if it functions properly before changing it out.