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  #1  
Old 07-31-2014, 09:09 AM
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New EDC Problem. UPDATE - FIXED!!

My Electronic Damping Control message has been on for some time now.

I bought a code reader and it pinpoints the left rear shock satellite.

Then I take it to the dealer to let them troubleshoot and they say it's the connector from the shock to the trucks wiring harness is corroded and pins are rotted out. $1366 to replace shock (can't just replace wire as it's part of the shock) and the wiring harness on the truck end.

I say no thanks and take it home. Open up the connector and sure enough it's as they said. Rotted out.

So I decide to cut off both ends of the connector and splice the wires together bypassing the rotted and corroded connector.

I am sure I connected the correct wires and put it all back together.

DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. Annnnd now after reading the codes, both rear shock satellites are not reading. In other words, whatever I did caused the problem to spread to the right rear shock as well. I did clear the codes and re-read the system. Still reads both shock satellites not communicating. The rear shocks are obviously tied together in the system through the wiring I messed with.

So is that connector I bypassed necessary for some sort of impedance or resistance metering? I'm no electrician or electronics expert. And by the way, the wiring is copper stranded like speaker wire. I don't want to spend over $1300 for a simple rotted pin in a connector. And you can't just buy the connector from BMW.

I know this is a long shot, but please someone help!!

Last edited by bdcanetti; 07-31-2014 at 03:47 PM. Reason: Problem Fixed
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  #2  
Old 07-31-2014, 10:03 AM
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That is strange and should not happen if the wires were spliced properly.Please re-check.
You cant buy a connector from BMW,but you can buy one from a junkyard.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bawareca View Post
That is strange and should not happen if the wires were spliced properly.Please re-check.
You cant buy a connector from BMW,but you can buy one from a junkyard.
My brother is an electronics guy that works for a Defense Contractor and is coming by tomorrow to recheck the connections but I'm 99% sure I connected them properly. There's always that 1% chance though.

And Junk yard was what I was thinking too.

I want SOOOO bad to fix this easily and on the cheap to tell the dealer service rep to pound salt!!
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:44 PM
ard ard is offline
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I dont blame the service rep- they dont cut and splice. My current service rep would just smile and say "yeah, I figured you'd do that" (whereas a service rep there form years go would probably say "you know that voids your warranty...dick)

Oh, without a schematic how will your electronics guy know it is done properly?

Finally, did you cut ONE wire at a time...and/or have the battery disconnected when you cut the wires? Shorting out stuff is an excellent way to fry things....
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:58 PM
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I just talked to the service rep on the phone and told him what I wanted to do, he said yes they do not cut and splice, they couldn't by regulation if they wanted to. He also said he would do what I was doing and said the actual mechanic told him the same thing. I wanted to confirm no programming was required and there is not. Should be a simple splice.

Therefore I'll go home tonight and recheck everything.

ARD - I was sick to my stomach that I did not disconnect the battery (As I should know better) and did cut all 3 wires at once as you pointed out. However, I confessed this to the rep and he said it's such a low voltage that it SHOULDN't matter. Who knows? I'll update tomorrow.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:46 PM
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UPDATE: FIXED!!!!!!!!!

Thanks to ARD pointing out my stupidity and yes ARD, I was, I went out and checked to see if there are associated fuses to the EDC system. There are 3 of them. Sure enough, I must have blown a fuse while cutting the connector off. I replaced it and the system has been restored.

In summary:

1. Buy the BMWhat OBD and Chasis scanner app as this is what led me to the left rear shock.

2. Let the delaer do the troubleshooting. So what if it cost $130 to find the bad connector. Although I could have skipped this step myself and chased wires.

3. When the dealer quotes you $1366 to fix a wire connector (replace a shock and chassis wiring harness) laugh at them, go home, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, cut off the connector and splice it yourself for less than $1.

I am so relieved right now. Now on to replacing the DMTL Leak diagnostic pump and Mechatronic Sleeve causing my transmission leak (the delaer found this while troubleshooting the shock and quoted me $880 to fix that). All parts on order and DIY's for both downloaded.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:31 PM
ard ard is offline
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I saw the first reply on my phone and was going to come hear to say (1) the SA is a 'service salesman'... not a tech. 12V or 5V WILL short out.... and (2) check the fuse.

Good to hear.
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