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  #21  
Old 05-05-2015, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue dragon View Post
I just did my lower control arms yesterday (or tension struts), its a DIY. You need a 27mm 12 point wrench, a torque wrench, and two 18 mm wrenches, but a set of allen keys to hold the ball joint from turning. Took me about 2 hours to complete the job (jack the front end up, put in jack stands and take the wheels off. Then partially remove the lower splash shield to expose the nut and bolt on the inside of the arms, and then remove, replace and torque
Definitely a DIY especially when you can pick up Meyle HD arms from Bav Auto for $99 ea. 4YR warranty w/free shipping. I had to make a quick trip to autozone for a 1 1/16 since I didn't have a 27mm laying around. Worked well and returned it the next day I'll buy a nice wrench later!

My ball joints were seized so I ended up having to use a impact gun to loosen the nuts then sledge hammer the crap out of the bolts to get the ball joints to pop out of the carrier. Took me a bit more than two hours tho...didn't keep track since I was partially watching the kiddos.
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  #22  
Old 05-05-2015, 06:33 PM
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I had to buy a 27mm, I didn't have one laying around either, but I figured I would keep it in case I had to do tierods as well.
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  #23  
Old 05-09-2015, 12:39 PM
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I had to throw up the white flag. I had all the right tools and got the left sway bar link for $50.

When I tried to remove it I had no problems getting the nuts off the bolts. What I couldn't do, however, was get the bolts to come out of the holes because they weren't lined up. I would get them out partially and then nothing other than getting a saw to cut the links would do it. I had to button it back up and take it to pep boys. .9 hours of labor..$95. Oh well.
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  #24  
Old 05-09-2015, 04:07 PM
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edit: thanks for the response PHL
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Last edited by XVII; 05-09-2015 at 05:21 PM.
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  #25  
Old 05-09-2015, 04:14 PM
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Use a T-40 to hold the bolt. Using a ratchet, put it into the end of the bolt where you are trying to unscrew the nut with an 18mm wrench.
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  #26  
Old 06-24-2015, 02:26 PM
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Does the knocking sound only happen when the car is warm/hot after driving for about over 3 miles? Or does it knock regardless? What about in the winter?
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  #27  
Old 06-28-2015, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyBMW View Post
Does the knocking sound only happen when the car is warm/hot after driving for about over 3 miles? Or does it knock regardless? What about in the winter?
RyBMW: The link related noise is the one when you drive into a parking lot and there is a noise when you drive from one surface onto the other.
Another scenario is when you hit a pot hole or a bridge tie.
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  #28  
Old 11-05-2016, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHL08 View Post
I had to throw up the white flag. I had all the right tools and got the left sway bar link for $50.

When I tried to remove it I had no problems getting the nuts off the bolts. What I couldn't do, however, was get the bolts to come out of the holes because they weren't lined up. I would get them out partially and then nothing other than getting a saw to cut the links would do it. I had to button it back up and take it to pep boys. .9 hours of labor..$95. Oh well.


I had the same issue doing my passenger side tonight. I stuck a jack stand under the wheel, forget where I positioned it, and let some pressure off the wheel by letting the jack down. It came right out smoothly. I would suggest you let some pressure off of the wheel when doing this, makes things much easier.

On a completely different note, I got the upper nut tight then went to torque it, was set to 41 ft lbs, clicked it once and then once more to ensure it was snug and snap! Broke the torx end off in the bolt. Luckily it was torqued to spec so no need to change anything but if I ever need to remove it looks like me or someone else will have to use vice grips to hold the bolt and then remove the nut. I would just suggest being careful to only use the torx to hold the bolt and not to turn the bolt unless you are using tools off the Snap-On truck. My T40 was a weak Husky brand. Other than that wonderful write up and fixed my issue.

Lastly, my part for the passenger side only cost $26 from autohausaz[dot]com so not sure why everyone is paying so much for them.
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  #29  
Old 11-06-2016, 09:20 AM
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$33.95 / pair with free shipping on Ebay.
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  #30  
Old 08-18-2017, 02:46 PM
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replacing end links solved 90% of my suspension noise going over bumps. Oddly, I was sure the noise was coming from the drivers side, but when I replaced them (always do pairs- {why don't they sell them pairs?}), the passenger side was much worse. The car has a knock when driving over potholes or rough terrain in general, but it is much better. It has over 160,000 miles so I think it would be very expensive to get it back to new. If you have a woody sort of knock going over bumps, sway bar end links are one of the first places to start.
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