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  #1  
Old 09-20-2014, 12:39 PM
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DIY: Replacing DMTL – Leak Down Pump, LDP – EVAP System

DIY: Replacing DMTL – Leak Down Pump, LDP – EVAP System

Problem: Check engine light is on. Code P1434 – Manufacturer specific code.


Enjoy.

What you need:
- e70 x5 (my 2008 X5 E70 4.8i, N62), or a BMW X5
- basic tools to include: 10mm socket, 8mm socket, 17mm socket, t-20 (solid core) star socket, few ratchets, breaker bar to remove wheel bolts with, flat screwdriver, dikes, plastic rivet gun
- hydraulic jack
- fuel tank at less than half full




Replacement Parts:
- new DMTL module, also called Leak Down Pump
- new hose clamp (I used 1/2” -> 1 1/4 “ clamp)
- wheel arch plastic rivets (either 5-longer, 2 short; or 7 longer)
(you can get some of your parts from import auto parts store that is local to you, ecstuning.com and your local bmw dealer)



Disclaimer: in no way does reading this post authorize you to do this repair yourself. You should always service your BMW at an authorized BMW Service point. Death and injury may/will result if you undertake this repair.




Things to know:
- this project should take about 60 minutes.
- pump is located on passenger side, rear wheel, above wheel liner, next to charcoal canister (the E53 Pump is on the Driver Side Rear, just so you know)
- you are working on a fuel system
- Fuel Vapors Are Extremely FLAMABLE!


Work To Be Performed:
- park on level surface and engage HAND BREAK
- loosen passenger side rear wheel bolts, lift the car up and remove the wheel



- remove plastic rivets holding the wheel arch





- remove the wheel arch, start by pulling from front of the car towards the back. Be careful, there are plastic clips holding it in about three places





- remove two 10mm plastic nuts next to shock and air spring



- follow by removing 8mm screws holding the wheel liner
- two in the top of the liner





- three holding the air damn at front of the wheel (two are under the car)





- two at back of the wheel (one of these is under the car)





- remove the liner by pulling it off the studs that the 10mm nuts were holding, pull pack out and down first, then work it out of the space



- look up the wheel well; you will notice the charcoal container and Leak Down Pump mounted right on the side of it



- remove the two nuts holding the charcoal container



- remove the bolt holding the filler neck



- disconnect the electrical connector to the Leak Down Pump

NOTE: you will have to lower the charcoal container down, in order to do this I have unclipped the filler and vent lines from the body of the car. This was necessary as three star bolts, holding the Leak Down Pump, are not accessible otherwise.

- remove two plastic nuts holding the filler neck line to body (located center right of the wheel well and bottom right)
- remove gas cap

NOTICE: Fuel Vapors Are Extremely FLAMABLE!

- pull the lines out of body mounted clips as needed



- disconnect the Leak Down pump lower hose by compressing the fitting
- remove the clamp holding back side hose (use dikes)
- unscrew the three star screws using the T-20 socket

REINSTALLATION

- replace the Leak Down Pump
- install three star screws
- clip in the lower hose to the new LDP
- install back left hose, secure using the new hose clamp (do not over tighten)
- slide the charcoal canister assembly back in place (notice there is a key-way at the top of the canister)
- reinstall filler tank nut
- reinstall the filler cap
- reinstall charcoal canister nuts
- reconnect LDP electrical connector
- reinstall wheel liner, start by sliding the front of the car end in first
- reinstall remaining 8mm hardware, and the two 10mm plastic nuts next to shock and air spring
- reinstall wheel arch, start at back of car and work it forward
- key in plastic rivets

NOTE: The dealer lists two part numbers for the back of the car. In reality you can use the longer rivet for all of it. I used a mix of two shorter (flat head), and five of taller (tapered head)





- back side of car



- front side of the car



- center of the wheel arch



- using the plastic rivet gun, install the rivets
- reinstall the wheel
- lower the car and retighten the wheel


Drive It Like You Stole It!
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  #2  
Old 11-10-2014, 10:30 PM
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UPDATE.....

Issues still unresolved.
Next.... new charcoal container.....
tpc.....
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  #3  
Old 11-11-2014, 09:16 AM
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How many miles on your X5?
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| '09 E70 X5 35D - Work horse | '17 F48 X1 MSport - Wife's daily | '17 F30 340i MSport - My daily |
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2014, 04:02 PM
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Nice! Dealer replaced this for me about 2 months ago. Solved my CEL.
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  #5  
Old 11-11-2014, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue dragon View Post
How many miles on your X5?
pushing 123K
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  #6  
Old 03-17-2015, 03:20 PM
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UPDATE:

The issue I determined was not a bad leak down pump but a melted plastic on fuel pump around one of the connectors. This melted plastic allowed fuel vapors to leak into cabin and out of the car.

I was able to fix this issue.
My fix included:
- replacing the gas cap (I don't think it was the problem)
- replacing the seal, clamp, top retaining "C" clamp on the fuel tank pump under the passenger rear seat (I don't think this was a problem)
- pulling fuel pump up and after disconnecting the connector noticing one of the pins had melted plastic around it. I filled the hole with JB Weld and connected the electrical connector to hold the assembly together until jb weld dried. Obviouse repair would be to replace the fuel pump. (this was the apparent problem)

Al in all I understand that the original firmware in the x5 sends too much current to the fuel pump and it keeps connector hot, melting plastic around it. I had new firmware loaded a year after I got the x5 (car was five years old at that time), but the damage was already done.

I did the repair about two months ago, all is good now.
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  #7  
Old 08-11-2017, 07:49 PM
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Hi all,
gregg3gs, do you happen to have any pics of this issue you found on your X5??? Just curious to see where/what the exact issue was. I am digging into my Leak Detection Pump code issue on my E53 currently and would love to see area affected, as you described! (I know your post is old, but just reachin out to ya for a shot in the dark!)


Steve
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167K miles
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  #8  
Old 08-11-2017, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackjetvette97 View Post
Hi all,
gregg3gs, do you happen to have any pics of this issue you found on your X5??? Just curious to see where/what the exact issue was. I am digging into my Leak Detection Pump code issue on my E53 currently and would love to see area affected, as you described! (I know your post is old, but just reachin out to ya for a shot in the dark!)


Steve

Hey.

I will update this post... actually don't know why all the pics are gone.

The issue was fuel tank electrical connector had burned a hole around a pin and fumes would leak.... therefore failing tank pressurize test.

Look for a DIY I posted related to fuel pump replacement.
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2017, 09:11 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregg3gs View Post
Hey.

I will update this post... actually don't know why all the pics are gone.

The issue was fuel tank electrical connector had burned a hole around a pin and fumes would leak.... therefore failing tank pressurize test.

Look for a DIY I posted related to fuel pump replacement.
Uggh

Photofuckit now wants $399 a year to give you an account that allows 3rd party hot linking to images you store there. Basterds

Just load the images to BF, that way they will stay
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  #10  
Old 04-20-2018, 11:16 AM
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Hey Greg

I’m having similar codes and was wondering if you’d be able to point me in the right direction please.
I’ve already replaced gas cap.

Thanks



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