35d worsening gas mileage - solved- thermostat/fan/EGR cooler - DIY with pics

[ZetaTre]

No, that is the CCV hose with the electrical connector for the heater element (a convoluted wiring).

It doesn't get removed to get to the EGR cooler bolts.

[diegoX]

Originally Posted by ZetaTre

No, that is the CCV hose with the electrical connector for the heater element (a convoluted wiring).

It doesn't get removed to get to the EGR cooler bolts.

copy that, thanks!

[boredincl]

You can remove it to gain more room, but not nesicary. The lower end goes onto the plastic inlet tube to the turbo. And the top has 2 push spring connectors. The plastic intake pipe is held on by one bolt so it's pretty quick to remove together. Mine has lots of cracks and needed to be replace.
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/626341_x800.jpg

[diegoX]

Originally Posted by boredincl

You can remove it to gain more room, but not nesicary. The lower end goes onto the plastic inlet tube to the turbo. And the top has 2 push spring connectors. The plastic intake pipe is held on by one bolt so it's pretty quick to remove together. Mine has lots of cracks and needed to be replace.
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/626341_x800.jpg

Thanks for the info sir. I ended not removing it after one of the push spring connectors fell into the abyss never to be found again which pretty much the only major frustration wasting time looking for it. LOL Hopefully i can purchase such pin somewhere.

Should have ordered and replaced the belts at the same time.

[sgrice]

Sorry for my tardy response - I've been out of town. But the responses from ZetaTre and boredincl are totally correct: Not necessary to remove, but if removed will give you better access. Doubt you can get a push connector separately, but the whole part (as shown by boredincl) is less expensive that one might think (I seem to recall something on the order of $60, but I can't find it on Realoem right now).

Hope the rest of the job went well. Be sure to post any thoughts you might have which might it easier for the next person.

Stephen

[diegoX]

Originally Posted by sgrice

Sorry for my tardy response - I've been out of town. But the responses from ZetaTre and boredincl are totally correct: Not necessary to remove, but if removed will give you better access. Doubt you can get a push connector separately, but the whole part (as shown by boredincl) is less expensive that one might think (I seem to recall something on the order of $60, but I can't find it on Realoem right now).

Hope the rest of the job went well. Be sure to post any thoughts you might have which might it easier for the next person.

Stephen

Taking me longer than usual because of work. Pump and thermostat are out and decided to remove/ clean the intake valve and egr valve (do you know the torques on those too? ). Having issues cutting out those "metal tabs" you mentioned that came with OEM water pump gasket. I don't have the cross cut chisel, tried a screw driver to no avail. maybe I'm just too careful. Limited space to swing the hammer. I might have to get that chisel tomorrow.







egr valve


intake valve


egr valve electrical connection is hard to undo at least for me. The white tab won't snap out despite prying with screw driver.

[sgrice]

Amen about the egr electrical connection. I think I mentioned it in the first post, and it was mentioned again in one of the later posts - but it is difficult. It's hard to describe the technique, but it's not so much "prying" with a micro-screwdriver, as it is sliding it between the two parts of the connector. There is some sort of a internal "ramp" that the clip catches on. I put the micro-screwdriver flat blade inbetween the two connector parts (from the back side), slide it back and forth for about 30 seconds while pulling with moderate force, and then suddenly the connector separates. I've looked several times to see exactly what gets unlatched (and why the white clip doesn't seem to do much), but I really can't see exactly what's going on.

With regard to metal tabs on the water pump gasket, another option would be to cross-cut the metal gasket with a wire cutter/dikes in 2 or 3 locations, then twist the tabs back and forth like a paper clip until metal fatigue eventually takes care of the issue.

I am out of town right now, so do not have access to Rheingold. Thus I don't know the torque values for the egr valve and throttle/anti-shudder valve.

Interesting to see the carbon build up on the egr valve. It looks similar to what mine was like at 80,000 miles. Otherwise, congrats to you - looks like you've done the hard part!

Regards.

[diegoX]

I'm hoping that p2457 fault code I'm having is just because of the carbon build up and the thermostat.

Frustrated that it was Sunday night no where to buy a cross cut chisel and desperate to remove the gasket. I ended up improvising my own cross cut chisel using screw drivers I got free from harbor freight and a random bench grinder I got from harbor freight as well years back because it was on sale plus coupon. Coz you'll never know you need one lol



Pic of the egr. Valve after brushing and spraying with a $1.99 carburetor cleaner.

[Shaman]

Originally Posted by sgrice

Amen about the egr electrical connection. I think I mentioned it in the first post, and it was mentioned again in one of the later posts - but it is difficult. It's hard to describe the technique, but it's not so much "prying" with a micro-screwdriver, as it is sliding it between the two parts of the connector. There is some sort of a internal "ramp" that the clip catches on. I put the micro-screwdriver flat blade inbetween the two connector parts (from the back side), slide it back and forth for about 30 seconds while pulling with moderate force, and then suddenly the connector separates. I've looked several times to see exactly what gets unlatched (and why the white clip doesn't seem to do much), but I really can't see exactly what's going on.

Sgrice, I've replaced EGR cooler thanks to your post and detailed description. And planning now to replace thermostat(s).
But I forgot to say, that I found out easy way to manage (disconnect/unlock) these connectors, that you have found tricky to disconnect. All you need to do is to squeeze it a bit and pull. Pics attached:

[sgrice]

Shaman -thanks for that - great info! It seems squeezing the clip lifts it off the locking ramp and allows separation. Great tip!!!