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  #251  
Old 02-08-2020, 05:25 PM
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A couple of videos now on Youtube:

In the first, he removes the fan:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rC4kANtlpvE

In the 2nd, he leaves the fan in:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqiQJy1B7Ro

Only 23,000 miles, but my 2013 X5d reaches 80-81C so I've got a new thermostat ($61 from dealer via Amazon) and am learning what its going to take to do the replacement. I'd have started today, but don't have an E Torx 10 socket as is suggested per the videos.

To remove fan or not to remove fan?
Is it important to use BMW antifreeze or can I mix any antifreeze with 50% distilled water?
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  #252  
Old 02-09-2020, 10:44 AM
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In my opinion you should take the fan out. I believe it is worth the time and effort by giving you a lot more room to work.


And yes the type of coolant matters. BMW coolant is always a safe choice, though I have read that Zerex G-05 is approved as well.


Good luck.
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  #253  
Old 02-09-2020, 07:45 PM
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Started the teardown while waiting for my tools to come in. I broke the hose coming from the EGR cooler (passenger side) to water pump. When I disconnected it, I pulled it away to direct the coolant into my drain pan and away from the belt. It isn't very flexible. Heard and felt a crack/snap. $40 later, a new one will be here in a few days from ECS Tuning. They had the best price ($20) on coolant so it kinda worked out...free shipping over $49.
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  #254  
Old 02-11-2020, 01:10 AM
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Anyone know how to remove and reinstall this water hose? Its the one that connects the passenger side EGR cooler to the water pump. I got the thermostat off, but this hose is different than anything I've seen. It rotates freely as can be seen in the video. That hard plastic pipe blocks some of the view and it looks like I have to remove several other things to remove it. The end I'm referring to is circled in red.

https://youtu.be/8kD72W-DpzI

Here is the part on ECS tuning: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11537795135/
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  #255  
Old 02-11-2020, 10:09 AM
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I could be wrong, but it looks to me like you need to us a pick tool to pull the clamp and release it, at which point the hose should just come right off..

You will probbably have to rotate the hose till you can reach and pull the clip..

From the ECS Part Photos..
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  #256  
Old 02-11-2020, 03:34 PM
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Thanks, Scott. I'm hopeful that is the case. The end of the hose that is already removed is that way, but it doesn't really look like the opposite end is the same. The ECS Tuning stock photos show both ends being the same, or did they just use the same photo twice?

Anyway, the replacement part arrives Friday and I'll be able to tell for sure then.

EDIT: Both sides of that hose have the identical fastening clamp. Easy to remove and re-install the new hose.

Last edited by deptrai; 02-15-2020 at 07:46 PM.
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  #257  
Old 04-12-2020, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captpilly View Post
Only issue was that I replaced a seal on the lower red boost hose - it didn't seem to seat properly when I was under there and sure enough it wasn't set right when I drove off....
What prompt you to replace the lower red boost hose seal?

TL; DR

While my red boost hose is dry (no oil mist whatsoever), I noticed light oily residue at the intercooler fitting (all around fitting and some minor stains on the thin coolant hose)

I started my T-Stat project late last night, got fan out, got stuck on EGR Cooler electrical plug, going to resume in the morning armed with pliers

Before I put it all together I am wondering if I should
- replace lower red boost hose seal
- and/or pull out intercooler and inspect for cracks
- or just clean it and monitor its condition.

I am loosing approximately 1.0L of oil per 10K miles.
EGR valve has thin soot coating (no blockage)
80K miles, no tunes (except swirl flap delete)

4D18 is the only code I have today (same as 4D16 on MY09-12).
ISTA test plan says SCR cat needs replacement.
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  #258  
Old 04-12-2020, 08:59 AM
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POBEP - my opinion would be that if your red boost hose is dry I would leave it alone.

I feel your pain on the EGR cooler plug. With greater experience it seems that merely pulling back the white tab and squeezing is frequently not enough to disengage. I suggest slipping a small screwdriver probe or end of a pick under the tab and lift it up. The trick described by Shaman (post 159) and referenced in my first post doesn't always work. I use a small screwdriver blade. I have seen others in youtube videos using picks. I thought it was AArodriguez in one of his videos, but I can't find it to refer you to. But a pick or a small screwdriver should get it disconnected.

Your oil consumption is almost precisely what mine was before I put in a Provent catch can. Since then the oil consumption is virtually nil between oil changes.

With respect to replacing SCR - have the NOX sensors pre and post already been checked/replaced? Don't move onto the SCR until you are sure the NOX sensors are good. There are some good posts about dealing with that - make sure you follow the test plan and don't jump to the SCR until the NOX sensors are confirmed good.

Hope that helps, good luck.
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  #259  
Old 04-12-2020, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgrice View Post
POBEP - my opinion would be that if your red boost hose is dry I would leave it alone.

I feel your pain on the EGR cooler plug. With greater experience it seems that merely pulling back the white tab and squeezing is frequently not enough to disengage. I suggest slipping a small screwdriver probe or end of a pick under the tab and lift it up. The trick described by Shaman (post 159) and referenced in my first post doesn't always work. I use a small screwdriver blade. I have seen others in youtube videos using picks. I thought it was AArodriguez in one of his videos, but I can't find it to refer you to. But a pick or a small screwdriver should get it disconnected.

Your oil consumption is almost precisely what mine was before I put in a Provent catch can. Since then the oil consumption is virtually nil between oil changes.

With respect to replacing SCR - have the NOX sensors pre and post already been checked/replaced? Don't move onto the SCR until you are sure the NOX sensors are good. There are some good posts about dealing with that - make sure you follow the test plan and don't jump to the SCR until the NOX sensors are confirmed good.

Hope that helps, good luck.
sgrice - thanks a lot for quick reply! (and fantastic DIY).

EGR cooler electrical plug - will try yours and Shaman's advise shortly (I remembered that solution was listed, but could not find it last night while in garage).

Oil consumption - I was going to install ProVent last summer, bought parts, but never got around to find welder to make custom cover plate. ProVent is still on my todo list after thermostat, emissions and presumably vacuum pump noise (https://youtu.be/x4l0nDtyNMc).

Famous 4D18 - relevant history
21K mi - 4268 (CEL on), MAF replaced (warranty)
29K mi - 46F2, (CEL on), EGT before SCR (warranty)
36K mi - 4B26, (CEL on), very rough engine start, injector #6 replaced (warranty)
46K mi - 4B26, (CEL on) code was accidentally reset by INDY, BMW refused to do anything without code present
75K mi - 4D18, 4BB2, 42FC (no CEL)
- refilled with fresh DEF through passive tank (transfer pump kicked in after second gallon was added)
- removed metering module - dry as new, no contamination. nothing in the port opening (myself)
- ran metering module test: got approximately 30ml (myself)
76K mi - 4B26 (CEL) the night before my visit to BMW
- both NOx sensors replaced (warranty)
- BMW recommended thermostat replacement (81C)
78K mi - 4D18 (no CEL)
- removed metering module - dry as new (myself)
- ran metering module test: got approximately 30ml (myself)
- checked urea concentration - 33%, within acceptable range (myself)
- ISTA test plan suggests SCR cat replacement as next step

Fuel consumption: http://www.fuelly.com/car/bmw/x5/201...0081/fuelchart

Current engine temp is 80C, (85C during DPF regenerations)

I am thinking to replace SCR Cat while car is still under 8/80 federal warranty for SCR Cat.
Dealer tentatively agreed to replace SCR Cat based on repair history.
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  #260  
Old 04-13-2020, 01:57 PM
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first and foremost - big thanks to the community for the extremely valuable knowledge base.
For being a C- home mechanic with the experience of repairing Lada's in late 90’s, this has been on the edge of my comfort zone.

Detailed report.

Cross bar removal
Watch out for small electrical connector attached on the passenger side.
I broke mine - mounting clips separated with very light force.

Black charge air pipe mounting bracket fell down during disassembly.
You can reach it from the power steering / coolant reservoirs side.

Fan removal was super easy. On vehicles with Adaptive Drive there is somewhat less space at the bottom (due to additional AD piping). Bottom coolant hose attached to fan in the center cannot be easily removed from bracket. Instead you can unclip its mounting bracket from the radiator. I spent some time on this one, eventually realizing that BMW mechanics never locked hose in its mounting bracket during past repairs.

Coolant Drain.
I am not a big fan of spilling liquids (probably because I do it anyways).
Diagram here https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0481
I disconnected coolant pipes #13 and #15 (bottom passenger side) - got 7L coolant out.
If you planning to replace TC thermostat, you should also disconnect line #6 and #9 from TC radiator.
Separating lines #10 and #12 will drain auxiliary radiator at bottom driver side (this is not required).

EGR Cooler removal.
Huge thanks to sgrice for the blue masking tape advise and Shaman electrical connectors disassembly tip.
I disconnected vacuum line and electrical connector from the EGR Cooler switch - it allowed me to remove EGR cooler and set it at work bench.
Ironically, for me this was fastest and easiest major step.

Main thermostat removal
In addition to the rigid pipe mounting bolt I had to remove EGR support bracket (which was held by the same bolt).

Transmission cooler thermostat
Have new part ready to be placed. Consider ordering new nuts - mine were rusted.
I disconnected TC thermostat coolant hose #6 - 0.5-1.0L of coolant came out. cleaned thermostat and TC radiator (IMO, this was important).
Then, slowly lifted TC thermostat on the coolant opening side - another 0.5L of coolant came our from TC radiator (since I missed line #9 drain)
Next, I removed TC thermostat - transmission oil start to poor out from the radiator opening (this was scary, minor panic).
I had my new TC thermostat in my other hand, quickly wiped ports and put new one in, bolted.
I hope my transmission oil not contaminated - it does not mix with coolant and oil was pushed out from the opening (not sucked in)

I finally hit a snag - the bottom EGR cooler plastic hose became extremely loose on the engine side. same issue as reported in post #254. At first, I thought the retaining clip came out and fell somewhere behind one of the pulleys. After some panic time, I realized that clip was still where it suppose to be. I was able to disconnect the hose from the engine - it required light, mirror, curly pick and lots of cursing. Closeup hose inspection revealed that its built-in gasket failed.

I’ll resume in a few days when replacement EGR Cooler hoses arrive.

Last edited by POBEP; 04-13-2020 at 03:27 PM.
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