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Ricky Bobby 12-08-2014 08:56 PM

What did u order bro?

mam4.6 12-10-2014 06:40 AM

Where to start? Let me see if I can remember everything-

GG6 with green and orange pads

MF pads

foam hand applicators

MF towels-detergent

Tarminator

Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner

Nanoskin Fine-grade mitt--what do you usd as lube? Can I use Iron-Out, or a terrible idea? Meg's Quick Detail Spray? Soap solution? Anything else?

Adam's Car Wash

Wool Mitt

FG400

PNS

Power Lock

Adam's VRT

Adam's APC

Set me back a bit, but free shipping and the 15% discount for newbs on the DB forum Phil advised me about helped a lot. Let me know if you think I need anything else. :)

Ricky Bobby 12-10-2014 10:24 AM

You might need a finishing polish after the FG400, depending on how it finishes down, its fairly versatile though and you might be able to use it with a less aggressive pad (green) to get it to finish down for you. I haven't seen your paint so I'm not sure what you're working with defect wise.

On my Topaz Blue I can get FG400 to finish down ready for LSP with no additional step needed, using an MF cutting pad, on black however you might need a finer polish. If your order hasn't shipped yet I would either add a bottle of Sonax Perfect Finish 4/6 or Menzerna SF4000 to the order, just in case you need that final polish. It will come in handy because now that my finish is maintained and corrected I can probably get by with a quick final polish once a year, and just clay/seal in between every 6 months.

Other than that your list looks good, use the Nanoskin mitt first on the glass (it says it in instructions) to "break it in", you can use car wash soapy water (fresh bucket of suds), after you are done washing, or you can use it with any QD spray (the Megs you mentioned would work fine if you are trying to use old stuff up).

You can definitely use IronX with Nanoscrub and it will do 2 things at once, just remember the mitt was meant to be used with a bucket of sudsy or soapy water so if you are using it with a QD or Iron cut spray to saturate the panels pretty good and keep the mitt wet in a bucket of suds. Lubrication is key with the mitt to prevent marring.

Good call on the Micro Restore, its all I use on my towels. Hope you ordered the gallon of APC, between cleaning the engine bay and tires/wheel wells you'll go through a decent amount of it. Only other thing I would order is the Wheel Woolies or the EZ Detail Brush for wheel barrels and complete wheel cleaning, they are honestly a lifesaver for me because they are so much quicker and easier to get the entire wheel.

I'd pick up a tire/wheel wells scrubbing brush as well in a future order but man you are off to a good start!

mam4.6 12-10-2014 01:45 PM

Already shipped expecting it any day. :( Guess i still got some time before Christmas to grab some of these things.

I think I'll be able to polish out my X with only the FG400, but I did wonder about the black. I'll probablx end up getting the 4/6. I'm sure it can't hurt to finish up with that, the more shine the better!!! :)

This is the starting procedure I was hoping for to get the detail rolling-

1. Pressure rinse

2. Hand wash with Adams Soap and APC mix to strip.

3. Rinse

4. Apply IronX liberally, let it work it's magic

5. NanoSkin Scrub- frequently rinse mitt in fresh soapy water to keep lubed. Would you clay after Scrub?

6. Rinse

7. Dry

And let the fun begin!

Definitely need to buy some wheel cleaning supplies. Since I'm getting my wheels refinished, I'll feel obliged to keep those barrels clean! :)

As always, thanks for the heads up on everything...

Keep it real...

Ricky Bobby 12-10-2014 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1019556)
Already shipped expecting it any day. :( Guess i still got some time before Christmas to grab some of these things.

I think I'll be able to polish out my X with only the FG400, but I did wonder about the black. I'll probablx end up getting the 4/6. I'm sure it can't hurt to finish up with that, the more shine the better!!! :) Yes on the black you will probably need 4/6 or the SF4000, the 4/6 is more expensive than SF4000 though. So if you want a pint of 4/6 its $30 but the 250ml (or half the amount) of 4/6 is $25. I like both polishes equally, the 4/6 dusts less, but the SF4000 is easier to work.

This is the starting procedure I was hoping for to get the detail rolling-

1. Pressure rinse

2. Hand wash with Adams Soap and APC mix to strip.

3. Rinse

4. Apply IronX liberally, let it work it's magic

5. NanoSkin Scrub- frequently rinse mitt in fresh soapy water to keep lubed. Would you clay after Scrub? I do, while the car is still wet as well, after rinsing off the Decon spray and after autoscrub. You can use the mitt side again and go around the car with the soapy mitt and clay, it will literally take you an extra 5 mins.

6. Rinse

7. Dry

And let the fun begin!

Definitely need to buy some wheel cleaning supplies. Since I'm getting my wheels refinished, I'll feel obliged to keep those barrels clean! :) Wheel Woolies for sure! Get the bent caliper spoke woolie too, I love them.

As always, thanks for the heads up on everything...

Keep it real...

See above man!

mam4.6 12-28-2014 11:11 PM

Finally got some pics to post up. Planning on starting Tuesday morning and installing a Belltech 751SP 2/4 lowering kit first, then moving on to the detailing. Doesn't look bad in this lighting, but wait till we get up closer...

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...3-img-0495.jpg

Somebody definitely did a number on this thing!! The stuff nightmares are made of!! :wow::wow:

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...4-img-0498.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...5-img-0499.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...6-img-0500.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...7-img-0501.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...8-img-0502.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...1-img-0510.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...2-img-0512.jpg

Polished one of the headlights a bit, made a difference, I thought... Took the yellowing out, along with some scratches...

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...0-img-0506.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...9-img-0505.jpg

I'll try to get plenty b4/during/after pics and post them up later this week. Let me know what you think. Suggestions and comments accepted...

mam4.6 12-29-2014 06:43 AM

Another question - After I finish up with the SF4000, do I need to do an IPA wipedown b4 applying any LSP?

mam4.6 01-03-2015 09:35 AM

I'm back! Got the lowering taken care of, took us a bit longer than planned (doesn't DIY always), since e couldn't find anybody to press our camber bushings into the UCAs while we waited. But we're finished, didn't get started on the detailing, but I'm off til Wednesday, so planning on Tuesday for that. A couple pics for your viewing pleasure...

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...9-img-0529.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...0-img-0538.jpg

Ricky Bobby 01-03-2015 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1021739)
Another question - After I finish up with the SF4000, do I need to do an IPA wipedown b4 applying any LSP?

Sorry Matt I didn't see your recent posts.

It wouldn't hurt to do an IPA wipedown (25% IPA/75% distilled should be fine) after final polishing to be sure you got all defects and fine swirls out.

Looking at that black Cadillac clearcoat, don't even waste your time and just go to town with the MF cutting pads and FG400. You'll need a couple passes from what I can see.

You'll also definitely need the SF4000 because the black isn't metallic, to make it finish down super fine.

Use the FG400 on the headlights/tail lights as well to remove oxidation. Have fun :)

mam4.6 01-04-2015 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby (Post 1022329)
Sorry Matt I didn't see your recent posts.

It wouldn't hurt to do an IPA wipedown (25% IPA/75% distilled should be fine) after final polishing to be sure you got all defects and fine swirls out.

Looking at that black Cadillac clearcoat, don't even waste your time and just go to town with the MF cutting pads and FG400. You'll need a couple passes from what I can see.

You'll also definitely need the SF4000 because the black isn't metallic, to make it finish down super fine.

Use the FG400 on the headlights/tail lights as well to remove oxidation. Have fun :)

No worries, we were busy elsewhere anyways...

Yeah, kinda figured I can work with the FG400 for awhile, with the amount of correction needed. Can't wait to break open my box from DD on Tuesday!

Edit: I do have a bottle of SF4000 ready to go as well.


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