Subwoofer Project FINISHED!!! (Enclosure Dimensions Included)

[Philly X5]

Another idea for the covering:

http://www.headlinerexpress.com/

Check under BMW, page # 7 sold by the yard but is is expensive - $59.95 but I think it will match the OEM carpeting good.

[X5-limo]

Originally Posted by Philly X5

Check under BMW, page # 7 sold by the yard but is is expensive - $59.95 but I think it will match the OEM carpeting good.

"By jove Watson, I do think you've got it!" On page 7, which item on the page would it be? They state, "....'foam backed' fabric (carpet)". Do you want to go in half and half?

I took my hatch door back to Walmart and sure enough, the color is slightly off. (And) yes I did see those same larger sized fleeces on the back wall marked down to $13 while the main isle had a bin full of my $3.00 fleece rolls.

Now I'm going to find a way to secure the 'fabric covered grille' to the hard plastic of the hatch. I'm thinking using small brass colored [#6?] screws would be the last resort.

[TwinsPoppa]

Originally Posted by X5-limo

"By jove Watson, I do think you've got it!" On page 7, which item on the page would it be? They state, "....'foam backed' fabric (carpet)". Do you want to go in half and half?

I took my hatch door back to Walmart and sure enough, the color is slightly off. (And) yes I did see those same larger sized fleeces on the back wall marked down to $13 while the main isle had a bin full of my $3.00 fleece rolls.

Now I'm going to find a way to secure the 'fabric covered grille' to the hard plastic of the hatch. I'm thinking using small brass colored [#6?] screws would be the last resort.

How about some silicone or liquid nails will hold just about anything. Maybe silicone is better for anti-vibration. Might have to scuff the surface and try the silicone kind they use for mounting windshields. I assume you're mounting from the backside.

[X5-limo]

Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa

How about some silicone or liquid nails will hold just about anything......I assume you're mounting from the backside.

.....Cool! I hadn't thought of that.
I'll be strectching the fabric over the front, approx 11" x 12" cutout, and securing it to the back of the hatch. There's a lip extending around 3 sides along the back perimeter of the hatch that I would like to use, but I'd probably have to work with (clamps?) one side at a time until the liquid nails adhesive 'sets' the fabic to the hatch(?)

[carlgo]

Originally Posted by sleepless

The bolt that attaches the bracket to the box is an ancient VW 10 mm sheet metal screw that is threaded into the MDF. Apply torque carefully! Again, just to illustrate that a bracket is a good solution.

To hold the bottom in, I put door insulation foam peel-off tape on any area that might touch and then some in between that big plastic trunk floor support and the front face of the speaker.

It is all good now on even the deepest sounds, although I do need to put some tension on the access door for those "special audio moments". Heh, heh.

.Hey Carlgo....... how did you attach the screw to the MDF ????? don't you think this would come loose since MDF material will loosen up after time.....[/QUOTE]

I just pre-drilled slightly undersize and carefully threaded it in. MDF is hard! I don't expect any problems. If it does come loose, I will use a threaded bushing or JB Weld.

I am pretty sure just properly pre-drilling and using any reasonably hefty straight-shank screw(s) will work just fine. All the forces are on a shear, not on a pull like a hinge or drawer front situation. And the bracket is just to keep the box from shifting out so that the speaker doesn't contact the access door. There isn't much clearance. I don't think the forces involved are very violent and it has held up so far, despite my best efforts.

[carlgo]

Originally Posted by sleepless

what if you install a L shaped bracket towards the top right of the sub box and install a nut and bolt to the hole, like they did in the BSW video ????? this might make the box not rattle against anything .......

This is indeed a good idea. See my pictures and posts here about that.

[carlgo]

Originally Posted by Essam Khafagi

Guys.. I am glad you both enjoyed it

If you want speaker upgrades just do the tweeters first (trust me on this)
You will feel huge difference
Midbass and midranges are not that important.

and ....

I have to disagree. Maybe your tweeters were broken, because the bulk of the midrange is coming from the dash, according to my ears and a hose. The tweeters are just adding the very most highs. I also know that the mid-bass is far better now with the Alpines, as it reportedly is with most BSW installations as well.

While any one of the front speakers will present an upgrade, I really recommend doing all of them. Together they are a huge improvement in all frequencies. It is not a subtle difference; it it hugely better.

Remember that the "mid-bass" was the base on most Xs. Putting in a sub does not stop bass signals from being sent to the door speakers. In the end, they all work together and, believe me, you will like your bass a whole lot better if you update the big door speakers as well, whether you do the subwoofer or not.

Others have said, and I am sure that it is true, that doing the rears adds to the experience. Someday when I feel rich I will do those.

[Essam Khafagi]

carlgo,

I completely agree ... I was just telling him to start with the tweeters
I replaced all the midbasses as I listed earlier here, and yes they are still giving nice midbass that I can feel in my leg when I touch the door.

The sounds just blend together very nicely and you can never notice any drop at any frequency.

[Major04]

WOW! I been reading all your progress and it's amazing. Keep up the great work!

Could we make this a sticky or in the DIY section? So, that it will not get lost?

[Essam Khafagi]

Hey major ... welcome to our thread (a potential customer )
I agree that this should be sticky or modified to be an article.

Admins?