Subwoofer Project FINISHED!!! (Enclosure Dimensions Included)

[Essam Khafagi]

it was not rattling in the beginning ... but it did after a while ... that's why I thought of carpeting ... I also removed 2cm from the near back to let the door close easily ... Will see tomorrow morning what's the result

[sleepless]

Originally Posted by Essam Khafagi

it was not rattling in the beginning ... but it did after a while ... that's why I thought of carpeting ... I also removed 2cm from the near back to let the door close easily ... Will see tomorrow morning what's the result

so the top dim. should be 11cm or 9cm ???

[Essam Khafagi]

top depth should be angled ... 13.5cm from the far side and 11.5cm from the near side (behind the tail lights) ... of course you can neglect the 0.5cm
I also recommend decreasing the width to be 27cm ... this will give you more freedom ... there is a silly metal part behind the tail light that keeps scratching the box when moved in or out ... i can take a pic for it tomorrow if u wish.

[sleepless]

what if you made the top just 11.5 on both sides ?

[Essam Khafagi]

Originally Posted by sleepless

what if you made the top just 11.5 on both sides ?

This will be OK but you will lose some enclosure volume.

BTW, the rattle is not from the box itself ... it is from the zillion things surronding it ... specially the fuse box above ... everthing in the car moves with the bass so you have to find them one by one and kill them

[sleepless]

what R U doing up so early ???? getting ready to go to work ?

[Essam Khafagi]

If we assumed 11.5cm depth and 27cm width, the volume will be roughly 12.4 liters (outer diameters) ... still acceptable

[Essam Khafagi]

Originally Posted by sleepless

what R U doing up so early ???? getting ready to go to work ?

It is not early my friend ... it is midnight here
and tomorrow is my weekend (Thur & Fri) so I am staying a bit late

[carlgo]

The speaker in place with the new upper bracket and showing the wire terminal. They only cost a couple of dollars, are air tight, allow for easy hook-up and look professional.

Yes, that is my blood.





Here I used a drawer slider attachment bracket because I have a few in my junk drawer. Lots of other hardware store solutions would work. Note that when you remove the fuse assy there is a bracket with a big hole in it, and this is in a very handy place to attach a bracket. I slid a speed clip on so a sheet metal screw would work, but a number of solutions would work just fine.

The bolt that attaches the bracket to the box is an ancient VW 10 mm sheet metal screw that is threaded into the MDF. Apply torque carefully! Again, just to illustrate that a bracket is a good solution.

To hold the bottom in, I put door insulation foam peel-off tape on any area that might touch and then some in between that big plastic trunk floor support and the front face of the speaker.

It is all good now on even the deepest sounds, although I do need to put some tension on the access door for those "special audio moments". Heh, heh.

[Essam Khafagi]

looks awesome
I will do the bracket but I need to find a strong 90 degree bracket somewhere