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  #21  
Old 08-28-2012, 01:17 AM
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i had the LED tail lights and did not like them and took them off...

i had a detailed picture of my camera somewhere on this forum... you get the camera installed and routed to the video module.

so, you say that the video module will compensate for the pulse in reverse lights?... interesting... we can try it... in that case your diagram should work...

inshallah, you will get it done this thursday...
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  #22  
Old 08-28-2012, 01:38 AM
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inshallah
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  #23  
Old 08-31-2012, 07:14 AM
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My project fail
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  #24  
Old 08-31-2012, 08:00 AM
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Terminator i take wire from pin 17 for switching and 13 and 14 for video and it's ok,

So what do you think about this diagram?

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  #25  
Old 08-31-2012, 01:49 PM
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I try this diagram too

It's not work

Why?

I wired same this diagram



When i turn gear to reverse screen switch from regular screen to reverse screen (that's good) but there's no video just black screen.

May be i think the problem from camera didn't receive power from battery, i put a fuse 30amp between battery and 87 on relay.

Please terminator i need your help
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  #26  
Old 09-01-2012, 12:30 AM
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salam abu...

it is a good news that your screen goes blank when you shift to reverse - it means that the logic operates fine.

Now you need to troubleshoot the camera and the video feed.

1. check the voltage that comes to power wires for the camera - use voltmeter to check the voltage;
2. if the voltage is present, check for the video signal coming out the camera - you can use a small TV, or a computer monitor that has an RCA input - on some chinese cameras the video output is an RCA plug that is black and can be confused with the power plug - connect the video output from the camera to that monitor (i use a special test monitor that is 4" and runs off a battery);
3. if you have video coming out of the camera, test the video cable between the camera plug and the video module and see if the video comes out the far end of the cable;

Can you perform these tasks?
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  #27  
Old 09-01-2012, 01:41 AM
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okay i well buy today voltemeter from radioshack and i well try.

that's mean my work to this time good?

terminator what do you think if i remove the fuse between 87 on relay and batery and make wiring directly?
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  #28  
Old 09-01-2012, 01:59 AM
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the multimeter will allow you to test if the fuse is functional or not. multimeter can test voltage, both DC and AC, amperage, resistance, and some models can test diodes.
you are using a 30 Amperes fuse!!! that means, that if something will happen to the camera circuit, the fuse will tolerate the increase in amperage upto 30 ams before it will burn, to protect the camera... however, your camera will probably draw 0.2 Amp of electricity, and it will burn before the fuse will try to save it. you need a more appropriate fuse, maybe 0.5 Amps or maybe 1.0 Amps... you might want to consider a fast burning fuse over a slow burning fuse - the fast burning fuse just blows the moment the amperage exceeds the nominal value, thus protecting sensetive electronics, slow fuse holds longer at the nominal and higher amperage, passing dangerous levels of electricity to the protected circuitry, before blowing... slow fuses are good for some electric motors that can take extra load for a few moments...

these are your fuse considerations...
and yes, your work is good...

Are you using a PIE video module or the BMW video module?
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  #29  
Old 09-01-2012, 02:45 AM
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terminator what about this diagram



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  #30  
Old 09-01-2012, 02:51 AM
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no i try to use PIE but not work so i make wires from pins in pin17 for switching and pins 13 and 14 for video

for fuse i use this one between battery and relay

30-Amp Inline Blade-Type Fuse Holder : Fuse Holders | RadioShack.com

what do you think?
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