e53 replacing radio with eonon GA5166 DVD/GPS/TV/Android4.2.2

[HPM]

DSP AMP Large 15pin connector, to aftermarket Metra 40pin plugged into stock radio brain in the trunk floor

DSP #4 to aftermarket metra #13
DSP #8 to #15
DSP #15 to #12
DSP small connector with white with yellow marks to Metra 9

Metra #16 to Purple with white line on EOM Harness that was originally plugged into OEM radio, but now plugged into Eonon extended harness

NOTE: I have the 40pin connector

[swissfrank]

Originally Posted by HPM

DSP #4 to aftermarket metra #13
DSP #8 to #15
DSP #15 to #12
DSP small connector with white with yellow marks to Metra 9

Metra #16 to Purple with white line on EOM Harness that was originally plugged into OEM radio, but now plugged into Eonon extended harness

NOTE: I have the 40pin connector

whoa, pics please.

[HPM]

Get your extra metra here : Metra 71 9003 Reverse Wiring Harness for 2002 Up BMW 5 Series Audi Volkswagen | eBay

[Hollywood516]

Originally Posted by semcoinc

Hi Hollywood,

That's encouraging news!

From whom did you purchase your unit? The Eonon NJ distributor or from them in China direct from their web site?

Yes, that special cable makes connection to the existing radio tuner under the rear floor area, just forward of the battery.

I have bookmarked this as my guide for when I tackle this project

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...placement.html

This is the place in the rear where the special cable connects for factory nav vehicles

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...IMG_0564-1.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...IMG_0583-1.jpg

The Eonon unit to my knowledge does not work with DSP equipped vehicles.

Mike

Hey, I bought the unit from Eonon directly. I know a few people that purchased from NJ distributor and Ebay sellers, but they only offer 1 yr warranty and no customer support.One buddy got a bad unit ( no FM reception at all) and the seller basically wrote him off .I got 2 year warranty and online chat support ( hong kong time only ). I must say , their online webchat support was helpful. They were a lil slow in answering my questions , but all in all, I am satisfied with my purchase. I wanted to get the dynavin, but my wife wasn't happy with the price,and she liked the fact it was an android based system. The ONLY problem I am having is that I have not been able to set up the steering wheel controls yet. I put tons of music and music videos on a USB stick and the system plays almost every media format.

[Hollywood516]

Originally Posted by HPM

Plug in the CAN box and they will work well... mine does anyway.. lol who knows with this stuff

Did you plug can bus into the connection in the rear , or the connection in the front ( behind the head unit itself) It looks like there is a white plug on both ends of the "special cable" that the can bus box can be plugged into .

[HPM]

I plugged it into the small white connector up front behind the head unit. My cable A0567 did not have a white connector at the rear/trunk location.

[we350z]

Hey John this is Brad I have chatted with you over email. You have the same situation as me except I didn't catch the first time around that your stock amp is fried.

I have everything working except the sound shuts off after a couple minutes unless I leave the 16:9 widescreen Alpine boardmonitor plugged in.

I think all I need to do now is connect the 12V AMP-CON wire (blue w/white stripe) to the white 12V ACC remote lead pin 4 (thicker white wire) on the 42-pin Harman Kardon harness (X?????) on the stock non-DSP Hifi Amp (Alpine 65.12-8 379 376) AND/OR to my Becker MB54 Radio Control Unit (RCU) old style 17-pin round pin harness (X18126) pin 16. There does NOT appear to be a remote 12V wire in either of the 12-pin connections behind the dash (12-pin blue X18801 or 12-pin white X18802).

These are my choices, I believe - in order of effort / difficulty:

1) Hijack an unused wire on X18801 (stereo functions - unlikely) or X18802 (NAV functions - more likely as I have disconnected Mark IV DVD) use it to connect AMP-CON to pin 4 on amp and/or pin 16 on RCU harness X18126).
2) Run a new remote wire to accoplish the same as above.
3) Relocate the Boardmonitor to the glove box (probably won't fit), will require extending X18801).
4) Relocate the Boardmonitor to the wheel well area

The only advantage I can think about #3/#4 is that since I am running the GA5166F Head Unit through my GROM Aux Input IBUS (CD Changer emulator) if the vehicle loses power I will have to plug the boardmonitor back in to select the AUX input again (as it will default to FM).

I have wired the line level inputs from the GA5166F to the TAPE L/R +/- but I haven't been able to verify if that actually works. Again I suppose I could possibly hijack the X18802 if I need to tap into some other leads on X18126.

Here are the threads I've written during this discovery phase:

Which radio tuner / harness is this?
Radio Control Unit and Non-DSP Amp ACC
Help With Eonon GA5166F Install w/Factory NAV no DSP
Boardmonitor pinouts to BM54 Radio Module

I hope that this helps anyone out there that is struggling with this install. I didn't necessarily think it would be "plug and play" but I thought it was be easier than this!

Originally Posted by johnrichards

No Prob. I will post a full detail with pic after I am 100% complete, but perhaps I can steer you in the right direction for now.

I am working with an 01 E53. Factory Nav with the wide screen display. Nav Drive and Changer in DS wheel well. Non DSP. Radio brains are under the spare, and the Alpine factory amp is in the well by the other devices. 10 speaker component configuration with varying opinions as to what is hi/mid/&low. No Factory Sub.

Frankly from what I have gathered in my process is that Creisa’s advise on the Dynavin is spot on!

My Alpine E53 AMP took on water at some point and was fried. The really bad news to this point was that all of the speaker crossover logic is contained within the function of the amp.

Since I was forced to replace the amp, whatever "plug n play" benefit would have been gained by using the A0569 BMW Extended Installation cable would still leave me with a pair of snips, and the task of wiring up crossovers.

As my talent level goes, I am perfectly comfortable in the 12V world, however the task of removing the cars body parts in order to run new cabling usually wont result in a perfect reassembly.

As I had the infamous dual 12 Pin plugs at the dash location (one blue, one white) I proceeded on the notion that I would just use these to get line signals from the front to the back.

It took a little bit of time to trace them and sort them all out, but they do indeed terminate in the back of the X5. One set to the radio brain box, and the other in the wheel well. (original destination... the NAV drive. )

They do however contain a few lines that draw need for caution.

• Cut them one at a time! - Like your defusing a bomb! They are hot 12V lines. …and perhaps most critical the yellow/white ibus line. You won’t want to cut through the whole mess and short something to ground.

• Find the 12 Lines ( and ibus ), on both ends cap them so they don’t find a ground some day while crossing some tracks.

It wound up being a pretty efficient way to get line signals from the front to back. You would think this would be an easy adapter to make as BMW and Audi(VW) have used these same style of connectors for some time.

I soldered RCA’s over 5 pair for Front, Back and Sub. There was a 12V / ACC / GRND both at the dash and in both back location. A canbus adapter can be hooked up to the white/yellow that is present in the dash. Just make sure you cap the other ends in the back. My steering controls worked perfectly.

The speakers were kind of a pain in the ass. I do not have a sub at this point so I just bought 2way crossovers. I omitted the dash speakers. Most agree these were the factory mids, but they are actually the same Hayes speakers that are in the doors. ( of course I am not the original owner and I can tell previous work has been done, so who knows if what I am seeing is stock.

Four passive crossovers off the 4 channel amp to feed the individual component speakers. I found a lot of variations in speaker wire colors. I wired up a temp line from my amp, plugged in the old ipod and did an audible trace of the speaker wires.

Make sure you use a low volume and if you can, dump everything under 1K so you don’t feed your 1in tweeter the bass intro to Rappers Delight!!

If you snip the 42pin plug that goes into the E53 Amp, keep in mind that there are also 12V lines present. There are also signal input lines that go between the brain and the amp. They all look like they could be speaker lines, but at least four are not.

I am left to just figuring out the antenna mess.

Feel free to reply if there is something more specific you need now. I have a great appreciation for these forums and the commitment to help a Beemer Brother out.

…can’t seem to find the forum when I am working on my daughters Corolla ☺

[phathom]

Has anyone else had any luck gettingthe steering wheel controls to program, or even the buttons on the deck for that matter?
My buttons on the deck and steering wheel work only for the built in music app and nothing else. If I have Pandora or VLC open or anything else it should work with and press next track, it launches the music player and starts playing on top of what's already playing.
I have gone into the steering wheel settings and I tried to assign the buttons to the controls, but it doesn't even recognize any button presses, as if it's disconnected.

Also my button don't stay lot, they only light up for a second when I press the LED button.

[semcoinc]

Originally Posted by phathom

Has anyone else had any luck gettingthe steering wheel controls to program, or even the buttons on the deck for that matter?
My buttons on the deck and steering wheel work only for the built in music app and nothing else. If I have Pandora or VLC open or anything else it should work with and press next track, it launches the music player and starts playing on top of what's already playing.
I have gone into the steering wheel settings and I tried to assign the buttons to the controls, but it doesn't even recognize any button presses, as if it's disconnected.

Also my button don't stay lot, they only light up for a second when I press the LED button.

In my E46 Eonon GM5150 unit, the steering wheel buttons are NOT programmable. You get what you get with the CAN Bus box they give you. I get just basic volume up and down and up down track functionality and answer phone with the talking head button if I remember correctly.

Mike