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  #1  
Old 05-10-2008, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiwiJochen
You cannot.

The original image of the file is a Mode2 image.

You must ensure the image stays Mode2 and doesn't change

So get a copy of the originail image and then burn it with ImgBurn
ImgBurn will show you the image mode before you burn it, so you can be sure it stays Mode2.

Any OS version of V22 or later has 3-1/63 on it.

Just make sure the image is Mode2, as some people have loaded images that have been changed to Mode1.
Done. I used ImgBurn. I checked for Mode 2 as it was burning, and it was Mode2. I burned at a speed of 2X. I checked my work, using the verify function in ImgBurn, and the verify was successful. I used Explore to look at the CD, and there are many files on it that have names suggesting the right kind of stuff, including a big one that is 200mb+. So, I am confident that I have a good update CD at this time and hopefully am ready to rock and roll.

The CD-Key: If I read the FAQ correctly, I do not actually need a key. I base this on the level of my current software, 3-1/41, which would have come from a V18.2 distribution disk (or equivalent factory install?). However, I would not want to be caught w/o a key in the middle of the update process if I am wrong. So, I tried to build a key CD. I don't think I have done it right.

I downloaded v18-key.zip from e38.org/nav.

I unzipped it using winrar.

I installed on my PC "Clone CD", which came with the download.

I used Clone CD to copy the key file (700+ bytes) to a CD.

I tried to look at the contents of the CD using Windows Explore. It would not show me anything, so I am not confident that I did this procedure correctly.

Could you advise me on the following: Does the current level of my nav system assure me that I will not need a key CD? If yes, I am ready to proceed and will do so. If no, could you tell me where I went wrong?

Thanks,
BillK
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  #2  
Old 05-10-2008, 11:07 AM
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Ahh another member being antsy about upgrading the OS. I still haven't pulled the trigger and i have the MKIV version. Good luck.
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:40 AM
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Jochen, I used Nero Disc Speed, per your recommendation. I think I did it right, but I don't understand my results. I got a couple of hundred "C2" errors and no "C1" errors. I cannot find an explanation of what these two types of errors mean. Can you interpret these results for me?
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  #4  
Old 05-13-2008, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK
Jochen, I used Nero Disc Speed, per your recommendation. I think I did it right, but I don't understand my results. I got a couple of hundred "C2" errors and no "C1" errors. I cannot find an explanation of what these two types of errors mean. Can you interpret these results for me?
I googled "cd c1 and c2 errors" and the top of the list is Explaining Common CD Errors

(Maybe I should sell training courses "How to Google?")

This website states:
C1 Errors.
C1 Errors refer to the block error rate (BLER), which consists of bit errors at the lowest level. BLER is always expressed in errors per second. All CDs and CDRs contain C1 errors. They are a normal result of the write process. However, the maximum BLER rate for a quality recording is an average of 220 errors per second based on 10 second samples.

C2 Errors.
C2 Errors refer to bytes in a frame (24 bytes per frame, 98 frames per block) and is an indication of a CD player's attempt to use error correction to recover lost data. C2 errors can be serious. A CD player may correct them, then again, it may not.
C2 errors are usually an indication of poor media quality, or a CD writer's failure to produce a quality burn (see conclusion).


My personal experience is that I would accept CDs with around 100 or less C2 errors.
Experiment burning at different speeds, and see what difference it makes to the error rates. Tip: try 1x and report what you find. You may be surprised!
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  #5  
Old 05-14-2008, 09:37 AM
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My report:

I repeated the test of the first CD, recorded at 2X. C2 results:

Max.: 418
Ave: 0.88
Total: 1213

(Quite a bit higher than my first run, as I recall, but I was clueless and focused on C1 and thought things were basically OK until you told me C2 is the one to be concerned about. Who in the hell invented this terminology? Don't they know that the human mind focuses on the first number given?)

I then recorded a new CD at 1X. C2 results:

Max.: 119
Ave.: 0.22
Total: 302


If this were your car, would you proceed with the update, using the 1X CD? I have no idea whether I should be focused on the max number or the total number. If total, then proceding is out of the question. If max, then we are close to your criterion.
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Old 05-14-2008, 05:21 PM
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Try a burn at 12x or 18x or something like that, make sure the blank supports it
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2008, 07:27 PM
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Jochen, success at last! I tried a burn at 18X. Zero C2 errors and zero C1 errors.

I walked out to my car, turned on the ignition, took out the map disk, put in the new disk, and watched for about 5-1/2 minutes as the update proceeded. It ended correctly, and my screen now shows level 3-1/63. Mission accomplished!

Thanks a million for all of your patience and help, Jochen. I truly appreciate it.

I will send my upgrade CD free to somebody here if you want to try an upgrade on your MKIII. I will not be responsible for any outcome, but the CD does seem to have worked for me. You can send me a private message if you like.
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  #8  
Old 05-15-2008, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK
Jochen, success at last! I tried a burn at 18X. Zero C2 errors and zero C1 errors.
Exactly my point. Modern CD burners and blank media produce errors when burnt at low speed.

I'm pleased it all worked out :-)
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