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  #21  
Old 01-16-2009, 10:36 AM
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Lift and installation = $4495. I considered installing it myself but decided against it. Took 2 guys about 5 hours.

Had to get a garage door company to make my door a high lift - raising the rails up to the ceiling and changing out the springs to a single one above the door on the wall.

They reused my screw type garage door opener, turned it up on it's end and anchored it to the floor with the motor in the air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by X5Newb
Dare I ask how much it cost? If you'd prefer PM or not to say, I understand.

Last edited by X5rolls; 01-16-2009 at 10:43 AM.
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  #22  
Old 01-16-2009, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5rolls
Lift and installation = $4495. I considered installing it myself but decided against it. Took 2 guys about 5 hours.

Had to get a garage door company to make my door a high lift - raising the rails up to the ceiling and changing out the springs to a single one above the door on the wall.

They reused my screw type garage door opener, turned it up on it's end and anchored it to the floor with the motor in the air.
Having someone else do it sounds like a good idea (for me anyway). Any pics of the modified garage door and opener? I'd be interested to see that as well. Also, how much did those mods cost? It all starts adding up

I was thinking of having the lift on the single car garage side, but I'd have to take measurements to see if the four post would fit and allow you to drive in normally. I don't have an opener on that side yet and I could potentially get it all fitted properly for the lift when I do it so it'd be great to see how they did yours.

Thanks to everyone for their comments and garage shots. Always good to pass such ideas past "the collective" to get feedback and point out potential issues before you even buy a product. I appreciate it!
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  #23  
Old 01-16-2009, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Line
When the lift was first put in, I too was somewhat concerned about the tipping. I called the manufacturer and they said it was very normal, nothing to be concerned about and within design specifications.

To be honest, the tipping gets more noticeable depending on how I park the car on top. The further away from the post, the more noticeable the tip.

But I've also learned, WHO CARES.... I've had the lift going on three years and it's been solid as a rock. The manufacturer gave me the thumbs up. I had it installed by one of their approved installers and with the exception of a failed attenuator, it's been problem free.

No, the unit is not mounted to the wall. I would think the wall being some variation of dry wall and wood, etc. wouldn't do anything to help support a lift that is drilled into thick, thick, thick concrete.

Matter of fact, if something were to fail, I would much prefer the cars got damaged rather than possibly shaking apart the frame of my house.

But that lift is solid, solid, solid... Regardless of some marginal tip.
I wonder how this lift will perform when the Earthquakes comes to LA ?? I think the one from Costco is well built, I like the 4 post design, where its free standing and it does not require bolting down to the floor ..... like previously mentioned by Quciksilver, most concrete floor in residential garage is not suitable for floor bolts ....

Last edited by sleepless; 01-16-2009 at 11:11 AM.
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  #24  
Old 01-16-2009, 11:07 AM
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The garage door mods were 1100 +-. I don't have any pics but I'll try to take some for you. Happy to talk to you about it if you like, PM me with your number and we can set up a time to talk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by X5Newb
Having someone else do it sounds like a good idea (for me anyway). Any pics of the modified garage door and opener? I'd be interested to see that as well. Also, how much did those mods cost? It all starts adding up

I was thinking of having the lift on the single car garage side, but I'd have to take measurements to see if the four post would fit and allow you to drive in normally. I don't have an opener on that side yet and I could potentially get it all fitted properly for the lift when I do it so it'd be great to see how they did yours.

Thanks to everyone for their comments and garage shots. Always good to pass such ideas past "the collective" to get feedback and point out potential issues before you even buy a product. I appreciate it!
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  #25  
Old 01-16-2009, 11:43 AM
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The GDO is basically the same one they use at the BMW dealer, it is the same door, only the rails go vertical, and it just raises straight up rather than folding and going over the car, and uses the control panel with the "Up" "Down" and "Stop" buttons. All I know is the sucker who bought that house has to go back in the middle door to close the side doors every morning.

That said, it was built in 2000, there are more than likely improved systems for opening and closing it. I'm waiting for the force field.
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  #26  
Old 01-16-2009, 12:13 PM
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I don't see how you can do wheel/brakie/suspension work with a 4-post lift you drive on to. Maybe I haven't been around enough lifts, but I always thought the 2 post with swing arms are decent ones since I see most mechanics with those.
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  #27  
Old 01-16-2009, 01:04 PM
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You'd basically need to just jacks/jackstands on the 4-poster. Both have pluses and minuses. You obviously need to bolt any 2-post in. I see a "caster kit" included with the Revolution, which should mean you can move it around. This would be a God send for me (I think). I need to take a bunch of measurements and see what'll work out best.
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2002 X5 4.4, Stahlgrau Metallic, 55k miles
Sport, Cold Weather, Rear Seat Heating, Rear Climate, Nav, PDC, Electric Rear Seat Back Adjustment, Rear Shades
Current Mods: M steering wheel
, Mk4 Nav Retrofit, Intravee/Alpine/SpecDock, Cosmos Schwarz Interior Trim
Coming Soon: Hood Protector
Wish List: Aluminum Running Boards, Rear Backup Camera, 20" Staggered Style 87s (Black), Hitch Retrofit

1996 318ti, California package (plus tons of mods), Aqua Metallic, 237k miles
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  #28  
Old 01-16-2009, 01:11 PM
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I agree with you. Most mechanics/shops will use a 2 post lift, it's much easier.

Lifts from Rotary come in a number of configurations and are designed for a wide number of vehicles, all the way up to huge buses.

The 4 post I use requires that I put jacks on the jack trays (they go between the drive on ramps) to lift the car for brakes/suspension work. You still have the ramps in the way a to get to the brakes, it's not optimal but it works well, just requires the extra step to jack the car up. You can use bottle jacks on the jack trays but I am going to upgrade an invest in air jacks in the spring/summer when I can work out there. I don't have a heater yet.

I wanted the 4 post over 2 post because the lift is primarly used for storage and oil changes. If I was going to do lots of work on my cars, I'd go 2 post for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GUINNESS
I don't see how you can do wheel/brakie/suspension work with a 4-post lift you drive on to. Maybe I haven't been around enough lifts, but I always thought the 2 post with swing arms are decent ones since I see most mechanics with those.
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  #29  
Old 01-16-2009, 01:16 PM
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I considered the casters but didn't think I'd need to move the lift to the other side of the garage. Pretty cool idea though - seems well suited for larger garages where you have space to move things around more than I do.

A neighbor of mine has dollys under each of the tires of his car (not on a lift of course) and he moves three cars around side to side to get access to areas in his garage. He also can put cars right next to one another - I think he squeezed 3 cars side by side into his 2 car garage once.

Quote:
Originally Posted by X5Newb
You'd basically need to just jacks/jackstands on the 4-poster. Both have pluses and minuses. You obviously need to bolt any 2-post in. I see a "caster kit" included with the Revolution, which should mean you can move it around. This would be a God send for me (I think). I need to take a bunch of measurements and see what'll work out best.
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  #30  
Old 01-16-2009, 06:30 PM
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High lift garage door pics

Genie door opener - floor mounted

Existing door opener hanger connected to new arm bracket at the bottom of the garage door.



Garage door track mounted next to ceiling (previously was approx 2.5 feet lower) and new door spring replacing 2 springs (one for each side) attached to bottom of the door.


Last edited by X5rolls; 01-16-2009 at 06:45 PM.
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