If the compressor seized, you will need to flush out the entire system to remove any debris in the system. You will need to replace the receiver/dryer. Not doing this will only cause the ac system to suffer another failure.

Bumping an old thread but my AC has problems.

3.0d facelift, compressor starts only after kickdown is performed (3000 rpm). And it really blows cold air after that nicely, but if you try to turn the AC on idle, pressing the flake does nothing, the hot air continues to blow. I guess the problem is in the clutch, right?

Have you verified that the aux fan is working? Symptoms sound like aux fan isn't working....

Aux fan is replaced with new recently. AC was working even with the old non working aux fan. I just found out the problem is not connected with the rpms or even the clutch. It just works intermittently. If it starts it alwaya works through the day. It just doesn't want to start in the beginning. Dunno if this could be a sensor or something. Freon is also filled up to maximum in the system.

Do you have a variable displacement compressor? The valve is set so that there is the least amount of drag on the engine when it is at idle. Could be that the solenoid that control the valve is not allowing the compressor to go to it max displacement so refrigerant is not being pumped through the system.

I have no clue about a solenoid valve on the compressor. If there is such present it's plausible. The system is behaving strange, I've tried both to start it using INPA diagnostic, and it just doesn't want to, and if you drive a bit and it just starts randomly, after that you have all the cold air in the world. Diagnostic says IHKA is working correctly and the signal is given for a start when you press the flake. But neither the AUX fan, or compressor starts. No error codes as well are present.
So far I've eliminated the following:

• AUX fan (replaced with new)
• IHKA control unit (has been replaced in 2011 by the previous owner with brand new)
• Not enough freon or pressure (system was filled and tested in the dealership for leaks)
• Compressor clutch (it doesn't make sense to behave like this if it's bad)

Will check compressor ground when we lift the car next week. It could be some kind of sensor maybe...?

After some more observation the problem seems to be the variable compressor valve/solenoid as symptoms are a lot similar to all with that - when car has stayed for a while, cold starts after 5-10 minutes of driving, or driving in high rpms sometimes manages to build the pressure. The AUX fan doesn't kick in until the cold starts blowing, and compressor compressing.

Sorry for bring this old thread back up again.



I have an issue with my AC compressor. The solenoid is not working. I have checked the connections etc and all is good. The issue is with the AC Compressor clutch.


Now, my issue is that I can not remove the AC clutch hex screw. Every time i undo the screw (Anti clock wise turning) the compressor pulley turns too.


The compressor is still in the car and I am thinking of working without removing the compressor.
I have tried using something to grip the pulley and then turn the hex bolt but it does not want to move.


Any ideas and help much appreciated.




Thank you

There are usually some special tools involved in removing and installing the clutch.

I had to replace a coil in situ and used a self-locking oil filter wrench to hold the pulley, levered against the body it would tighten its grip as I undid the bolt, freeing up both hands for the job (breaker bar).

Or a strap wrench, or right angle impact wrench as there is not much room down there.

Recently replaced whole compressor (variable displacement Calsonic) with a reconditioned one, and had to swap the pulleys (different # grooves) on the bench - in both cases I held pulley in my hand and an 18v impact driver did the job in a second...