Xoutpost.com - Are they running out of Xenon or something?

Quote:

Originally Posted by blktoptrvl (Post 1089405)

This may seem strange, but I was able to tie the screw to the tool tip using thread. I tied a knot around the screw and wound the thread around the screw and the shaft of the t-20 tool to get it started.

The screw where the loop broke off is another issue. I am currently looking for a small flexible (plastic washer that will be able to apply pressure where the loop broke.)

Edit:

OK, bulb is in and works. Now the passenger side. From the look of it, it will be much easier - after the air cleaner is removed.

OK, started the passenger side. Compared to the driver side, this is a cake walk. So far I have about 15-20 minutes in.

To WPoll, the cover on this side does have 4 screws.

After getting the Air cleaner out of the way - and fishing out one of the air cleaner clips that dropped into the abyss (these are not magnetic and therefore would not be fished with my magnet stick - fortunately I also have a spring claw that worked), these four screws came out without anything breaking.

I have just washed my hands and am waiting for them to fully dry so I can get the nitrite gloves to slide on (one size fits all - my eye).

Back to the garage

Edit:

OK, job is done. Before closing the hood I will recondition the lenses.

Lessons learned from this job.

The lamps can be ordered from any site that will honor return if they prove not to be genuine. In cases where there are many counterfeits, be sure to call the manufacturer to get a reputable seller. Philips has a authenticity sticker and serial number on each bulb and package, and they have an authentication application on their site. Sites recommended by others may be just as good a source, but I would check them out too to be sure they will honor returns. (This is a case I think, of "to each their own" and caveat emptor.) But to all who contributed to this thread, thanks again. I do appreciate both the recommendations and the specs provided
If you can find one, get a strongly magnetic Torx 20. I didn't have one, but I was able to get screws into place using (a) thread to tie the screw onto the torx head, and (b) tape works as well. The screws fit very loosely into the torx head. In future I might consider replacing the short screws with much longer ones with a shallow shoulder.
If, like me, you have big hands (wide) loosening and pulling the lamp assembly forward helps, but also have a magnetic probe and a claw available to pick up dropped screws or tools. (2 ft length)
I can shoot myself for not replacing the cornering lights at the same time - they look like a joy too.
Instead of a Torx socket and ratchet, I would recommend a Torx screwdriver, about 5"
The ignitors are not position the same driver and passenger sides. One is 90 degrees rotated compared to the other.
I was going to write that next time I have to go in, I will probably completely remove the power steering and coolant overflow tanks, but thinking further, I do believe it would be much easier just to remove the bumper cover. I kind of think it is insane that the whole cover needs to be removed in order to get the lights free.
Next time I need to replace bi-xenons, I think I will also order new rear lamp covers.
Although some write ups do not mention it, be sure to pull the headlamp fuse, make sure the auto light switch is turned off and do not leave the keys in the ignition. I would not go as far as disconnecting the battery though.
The bulbs are not super hard to obtain, but the auto parts stores are charging about twice the price of any mail-order, and it will take a minimum of two-three days to get them mail order. For this reason, if you are a road warrior like me who criss crosses the country frequently and on a whim, I would recommend boxing up the bulb that was still burning and sticking it into your emergency kit. When I say boxing, I mean a wooden box that will not allow the bulb to be crushed.