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2001 E53 4.4L 6MT swap?
Good day all!
Some of yous may know my other thread concerning my 2004 project... Well, I was considering doing a manual trans conversion to eliminate the auto trans issues I have been plagued with... But all the information concerning it doesn't allow the conversion to keep AWD and be reasonably cost effective... So, I'm going to keep waiting until I figure out that little part of the vehicle. However, I was looking at a 2003 4.4L, but I found a 2002 4.6is that would be a great candidate for a RWD 6 speed manual trans conversion... I've loved both E53's I've owned, but they were both 4.4L and no manual... I don't NEED AWD here and it may save me some fuel costs in the long run... I already have a 540i 6 speed trans in my garage. Yep, I have a spare 6 speed... and most of the parts are becoming available in the pull-it-yards. So, the reason for this post. I wanna know what yous think about a 4.4L 6 speed manual E53 (RWD)...... Thanks all! EDIT::: I ended up getting the Imola Red 2002 4.6is... Cheers! |
I say why not. There is a guy that did a 5mt or 6mt on a 4.6is and am not sure how much it cost but that is thread to read if you want awd. Other than that, sure why not, since it is either doing this or getting an e39 m62 wagon with a 6mt.
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I say go ahead if you got time and resources.
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Do it.
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I saw Nick's blue AWD 6 speed... he had extensive costs involved with getting the trans to TC adapter made... still incredibly amazing!
I found a 2003 4.6is, but didn't want to molest a rare example... Imola red/black... It might take me some time to effectively work out all the bugs and keep it all stock! The goal is to use only what BMW has already made... Either from another X5 (3.0L) or another chassis line (5 series)... a few tweaks with the laptop to program the modules and such... I will probably be forced to have a custom drive shaft made, but that might not be much more than the cost of a replacement... I'm excited about getting this one started since all my other projects are getting wrapped up and finished... I guess I'll just use this thread to keep things in one place once I get this going strong! Thanks all! Cheers! |
Does the ZF 320 bolt to the M62? If so you could just use 3.0i stuff. That's how I'd do it to keep AWD.
If you just want RWD, slap the 6 speed on it and get a driveshaft lengthened. The new base X5's are rwd only too. |
I'd take a RWD only 4.4L 6spd. Very cool project if you decide to jump into it. Definitely keep us posted.
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None of the drive line items from the 3.0L will work on the 4.4L... The only thing I'll be pulling from the 3.0L will be the shifter related assemblies...
Flywheel, clutch, trans, wiring, and hydraulics will be from the 540i... trans mounts and wiring might be my biggest tackle to keep stock (plug and play)... I'm going to see about the project vehicle today... sourcing parts will be time consuming and I still have a lot of research to do on coding the correct modules and such... All this will be done! And done with as little cost as possible, not counting the project vehicle... I have $400 in the 540i 6 speed trans already... I'm going to look at the 540i that hit the pull-it-yard this past week... Maybe it's a manual and I can pull all the clutch stuff I need from that one vehicle... not many E53's in the yards yet and only a handful of them will be manual 3.0L's... I may be forced to use Ebay or go to the stealerdhip for those items... I'll keep yous guys and gals posted! Cheers! |
Subscribed just to see how this plays out. I'd LOVE to do this swap on my 4.6 and ditch the heavy/useless/high maintenance AWD hardware.
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Well guys and gals, the project vehicle I looked at today needed far more work than the price allowed... So the search continues! I know of an Imola red and black 4.6is that I would love to convert to the RWD side, but I don't want to be "that guy" who ruins a nice example of a rare breed...
So, I was looking at the trans cross members. That is gonna be a chore to work out... I guess I'm lucky in that I have both the X5 and the manual trans version 540i that I can inspect up close to figure this one out. I still might be forced to fabricate the cross member. However, if the stock X5 cross member will bolt up backwards, I might be able to get it to work with little fabrication... I suspect the transmission and transfer case together will be longer than the 6 speed by itself... I'll try to get the exact measurements this weekend! Well, that's all I have for now. What are your thoughts on converting one of the few Imola red 4.6is' over to a RWD manual? Cheers all! |
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Well, it really would be a nice vehicle to convert! I do hope I can get it all sorted out for almost next to nothing... And if I can get it to work with very little custom work, the better for others that would want to do it to theirs... I'm even going to piece together drive shafts until I get one that works, or conclude I must go the custom route... I'll look into that 4.6is tomorrow... Cheers all! |
Well, if you figure out a way to do the conversion for a reasonable amount of money, I think a lot of folks would be interested in the details - Myself included. My original fantasy was that it could be done for roughly the same cost as replacing a failed automatic with a new one from BMW. WRONG! A new BMW automatic transmission is a much cheaper option.
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I think you should start reading 740 boards. The 740 people have done more than one m6 swap. That's where you get all the stuff for the transmission/clutch aspect. I think the best transmission for this is 420G or the other manual transmission that came in the late 545 V8s with manual. That's been tested.
Do not use M3 transmission even though it is spec'd for descent amount of horse. They don't make much torque, and M3 is an I6 engine so it won't bolt up. There were plenty of manual V8 sedans in the E53 era though. Use one of those. Watch the gear ratios. X5s are geared for a lot of mass and high final drive ratios. 5 series were not so much. The transfer case is the problem. The only BMW manual car with AWD is going to be a wagon, but they never had v8s. They are all built on M54 I6 variants (M50, M52 etc). I would get your transmission and then figure out how to adapt to and mount a transfer case. This is probably going to take a custom adapter plate and input/output shafts, but it isn't impossible. You can use the stocker, but it might be harder to modify to fit the original than use something else where you can custom mount it. The L332 Rover that has the 4.4 engine came factory with a different transfer case than the E53 X5 with 4.4. It has a low gear on it and is spec'd for a slightly higher vehicle weight than the BMW unit, because the rover is a fat, fat pig. But it came factory and bolts up, and probably can take more torque than the NV125 or the later motor-based units that came in E53, which are aluminum, lightweight and chain drive. It's heavy and expensive compared to the NV125. You could go completely off the deep end and use a non-BMW/Rover transfer case like a Dana 300 (has been done with a 3.0 by a member here) but he had to flip the case AND have a custom adapter plate machined AND had new propshafts made. The problem with manual swap on 4.4L in E53 has always been, to my mind, the transfer case. That's why everyone who has done it (all two of them or whatever) go RWD. Do it though, I have been thinking about this for a long time. edit: apparently the machine is not taking hard returns today. sorry for the block'o'words. |
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Good day lo_jack! Thanks so much for the info! I have been looking at the 7 series boards, and is been good reading, but they are using the N62 V8.. Those are in our 2004 and up E53's (I already have one). Those N62s like having a 2004 and up 545i manual trans behind them. I'm sticking with the 2001 to 2003 E53 so I can use my 2001 540i spare trans. The 2004 and up conversion might happen IF this one goes like I want it and I get enough requests to attempt the same on the newer power plant! However, in both cases, I'm not going to bother with keeping the AWD. I have not seen a V8 manual E53 yet in the states from BMW... If BMW only knew how many units they would have sold (not gonna speculate, but I think it would have been enough to cover tooling and such costs to have it built! They could have at least tried it!)..... So, this project will be strictly to make a V8 6 speed RWD E53 out of completely stock BMW parts and done as cheap as possible with mostly used parts (that generally don't wear out to begin with)! Well all, I'm off for a few days. I work third, so getting this going is hit or miss with the holidays! The normal selling market turns into holiday shopping! This might not get full into the works until after the holidays! Stay tuned and be safe out there! Happy holidays to you and yours! |
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I would just look for a decent Porsche GTS Cayenne with a six speed manual box. Don't know why someone would want an SUV that is only RWD.
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That's my thoughts on it too! WHY??? But, (there is almost always a "but").... But, I love the attributes the E53 has and that it has a V8 option... I would personally never buy a truck without 4x4... since I have one for the snow days, why not play with an E53 for a daily driver the other 11 months in RWD manual trans fashion? It's all about choices! This is really a big E39 for me... I already have an E39 540i6 and the stock 2004 E53... I'm squashing then together just for fun! Maybe I can get it to drift a little.... just havin fun! Cheers! |
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No need for AWD here in southern GA. The 4.6is is strictly an on-road vehicle anyway - no chance of ever taking it 4-wheeling with 20" summer tires.
Ditching the AWD hardware gets rid of 3 driveshafts, 6 CV joints, a differential, a transfer case, two oil sumps, and I-don't-know-how-many gaskets and seals. It's not like 340HP is so much that it'll overwhelm the rear tires. |
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Since I already have AWD with the 5mt m54 x5, I think I will do this when the AT goes out on the 4.6is. Hopefully I can get it done for about 5k max in the future. 340hp is not much for this heavy thing.
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Good day all!!
I hope I can get this done way below the $2000 mark!!! Fingers are crossed... I did some measuring today... As it just so happens, I have a 2001 540i 6 speed manual and a 2006 4.4L ZF 6 speed auto in my garage... I'm just odd!! So, the manual measures 25.2 inches from the bell housing to the output driveshaft mounting flange... My better half helped me measure with the straight edge... I wasn't sure where to measure the auto, so I went all the way out to the end of the output shaft... That extends about six inches past the end of the trans... The total length I got from bell housing to output shaft end was 29.75...... So, I have a feeling I will be about 10 inches or so too far forward on the manual trans mounting points... I think I need the project vehicle in order to determine if I can use a stock 540i cross member and literally make mounting holes in the frame where the originals are, just the 10 or so inches forward... I think that might be my best bet in mounting the cross member without welding up some contraption to the existing cross member... I'll take pictures tomorrow of both transmissions, the underside of the 2004 X5, and the underside of the 2001 540i... Maybe we can figure this little issue out together... Still working on that project vehicle... Cheers for now!!! |
Go for it. I have a 02 4.6is im doing this to. Have most of my parts already just waiting for my clutch an light flywheel to get here from england. From looks of it wont need to make a whole new crossmember just add onto the existing and have driveshaft lengthened. Local machine shop is taking care of that for me.
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It's time!!
Good day all!!!
Well, I pulled the trigger on the purchase of the project vehicle... I technically don't own it yet... I pick it up tomorrow... I have to do some digging into what is wrong with it... I'll worry about that later... Here is the initial pictures sitting in from of the PO house... And bonus is that it has the original trailer hitch... I was thinking about pulling it and duplicating it to exact standards with very tight tolerances, if possible... For those that wouldn't mind having one... I'll work on that after the swap if there are some interested... Anyway... So, I was going to go with the run of the mill version 4.4L... I figured it would be the easiest to match up with the E39 set-up... BUT, I found an Imola Red 4.6is that needed trans work (I think)... Perfect... I'll take more pictures when I get it home tomorrow... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/1jTpV4.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/aCQtZR.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/1YjZoX.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/oTUebw.jpg The GOOD stuff!!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/4xasPE.jpg The BAD stuff... I will take this off after I get it home to see the extent of the damage... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/8r1RJT.jpg That is all for now!! MORE TO COME!! Cheers!! And Happy New Year everyone!!! |
Nice... bet you got it for a song too. Happy New Year.
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Nice!! Can't wait to see how the 6MT/RWD conversion works out.
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It's also the early design aftermarket unit, the one that flexes/tears the sheet metal around the mounting area. The later design has a support bar that goes forward (underneath the battery box) and ties into the frame crossmember behind diff. |
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What is the mileage of that 4.6is?
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Good day all! Well, yous were right! It is a "Drawtight" hitch... I may take it if and see how it compares to the original! I hope the PO that installed it didn't cut and splice wires! It does have the square tubing that goes under the battery box and ties into the diff support. I think I'm still gonna pull it and maybe install it on the better half's X...
The red X has 164K on the dash, that you can barely read... Build date 01/02... The X has the TC and drive shaft issue... I have to say this one could have been avoided if the tech that installed the replacement TC for original owner used the $10.72 collar and seal on the front drive shaft. Oddly, I went to the pull it yard to check the one X5 out there for anything good... TC and drive shaft were there... but 3.0L version TC... Was going to pull the DS, but this one also didn't have the collar and seal... TC looked newer than trans. I have the parts needed for my X on their way... I'm going to put it back to original for now. I am still getting all the parts needed for the conversion together... Once I get them all, I'll start the swap... It should be warming up by then... Okay, so one issue I have that maybe someone can help me with... My turn signals don't work... The PO stated he needed to replace the LCM... Would that cause my issue? I can code the module, but is it possible to have the wrong one in there? I'll post more pictures soon! I wanna get it cleaned up a little... Cheers all! |
Good day all!
Well, the 2004 is still giving me transmission issues and my 4.6is is just amazing! So, I've once again pulled the trigger on another X5... 2006 with the 4.4L and panoramic sunroof for $2500... Charged up battery enough to turn the motor over... seems to be missing compression on a few cylinders... I'll tear into it my next few days off! So, I'm not sure what to do here! My first thought is to pull the motor from 4 (2004) and get 6 (2006) on the road with me still using 2 (2002 4.6is)... The interior in 4 is so much better than 6! BUT, I can let the better half use 6 and convert 4 to RWD manual and finally solve the transmission issue I've been dealing with for months! Once the conversions done, I can let the better half use 4 and think about another conversion on 2 or 6, while I use the one I don't convert! How many want a RWD V8 6-speed if I can get it to work like it came from the factory? No crazy hacking of wires or crazy alarms on the dash that won't go away! My end product would resemble what BMW would have made, if they were smart enough to make it! Thoughts? Cheers! |
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Just so everyone knows... It might be spring time when I will be able to source all the parts needed... Not many salvage yards are pulling items from the manual 3.0L's that don't fail... Like ALL the parts I need for the conversion, so they get crushed when they get done pulling all the good stuff... I have to make some sort of deal with the salvage yards to get these parts before they crush the shell... Or find that unicorn at the PIY!!! EDIT:: I checked all the PIY's yesterday... Nothing avail... I just checked and one is brand new on the lot... Unknown transmission, so I will be losing sleep to check it out tomorrow... Keep your fingers crossed!!! Cheers!!! |
Just keep me posted on your progress. When you have it figured out let me know and we can go from there. I'm not really in a hurry and would prefer to wait until the conversion is fully worked out. So if it's a few more months, that's fine with me.
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I cant wait till this is done and perfected. I intend to convert my 4.6is as well to a 6mt to go along with my m54 5mt.
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Good day all!!
I didn't get lucky today at the PIY... It was a 3.0L but in automatic form... I'm still hunting the pedal assembly and shifter bracket that goes from the rear of the trans to the body of the X... I need all of that for every vehicle, so if you want to do the conversion, it might be a great idea to see if you can locate those items too... I'm striking out here in S.C... If I don't find what I need when I am ready to do my conversion, I may end up buying new... I doubt BMW has a surplus of that stuff, but I figure there are a few examples of everything needed in a warehouse somewhere... I'm going to call around to some of the salvage yards to see if they can put me on a call list when they get a manual X5 in... I'm going to add up some figures tonight of what I think it might run in parts if needed to buy new... Oh, if you are planning on doing a 99-2003 V8, the 540i transmissions are becoming more avail and cheap... If doing a 2004-2006, I would recommend getting the 6-speed that matches up to that year motor (545i) and associated parts... Just to keep programming easier and wiring harnesses that match better... I have to do one of each to start off with... I think my 4.6is will be easier in the end, but that is still up in the air... The 4.6is needs better gearing... I'm running far too many RPM's doing 80... Errrrrr, I mean 55.... Okay, I'm rambling... Cheers for now!!! |
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Would you want to help me out a little?? I could really use a picture of the clutch pedal assembly so I can get a better idea of what I am dealing with... Please... I'm putting this parts list together using realoem. Some things are included in the picture, but might not be needed for the manual... It is looking really great as far as the pedals are concerned... Short of the carrier itself, which is about $80, the rest is essentially pulled from the same vehicle you pull the transmission from... The brake pedal is E53 specific as well... But all the mounting for the brake pedal dates back to '81, so pull that from the donor vehicle you're getting the transmission from... The Shifting arm is going to be fun... It might need to be shorten or extended... Up to 9/03 is one version... 9/03 and on is another... If you have the V8 with variable valve LIFT, everything you need should come from a 545i... The selector rod might be custom made to your preference... Aside of those two items, the rest is pretty much from the trans donor vehicle... I'm not sure how many are aware, but the shifter lever bushing is where the pivot point of the shifter lever sits... Remembering back to geometry, the amount of force on an item using a lever has yada yada yada.... So, if you go with stock, it will be easy to shift the trans, but your throws will be over a foot long... If you go with my personal favorite, the E46 M3, the pivot point is moved up the lever some and shortens the throws, but makes it a little more difficult... If you are one that visits the PIY (Pull It Yards) you might have a wide selection of levers... The knobs are usually the first to go, but the levers generally stay... Pick a few... Try them out... Yada yada yada... Hydraulics are easy and difficult... The cylinders are from the transmission donor vehicle... they are all the same... The hydraulic lines however should come from the 3.0L X5 and pulled carefully so they may keep their stock appearance!! I doubt BMW would send the lines pre-bent... BUT, ya never know!! I'm going to ask on Monday... The shifter boot is probably going to be the most expensive, unless you can find the 3.0L X5 to pull all the E53 specific stuff from... New shifter boot is around $79 from ECS tuning or $87 from the dealer... The only other expensive part is the input clutch cylinder at $140 new from ECS tuning... But they are a dime a dozen in the yards... Oh, not counting the transmission, cross member mod, drive shaft mod, and clutch/flywheel parts... I already have my 540i 6-speed trans... I'll start pulling the ones I find in the yards here, along with the flywheel, and clutch items... You may want to go with new clutch components... but... It is hard to come up with a total due to the good probability of getting lots of these parts used... And most of this stuff lasts the lifetime of the car... I just checked the PIY's and no manuals, but there is a 2007 525i out there as of yesterday... Need anything!? Well, this is already crazy long... More to come!! Cheers!!! |
I think I can take a pic for you. Just take some pictures of the clutch or do I need to remove some stuff? If I need to remove some stuff we will need to wait until it gets warmer here since my 5mt sits outside in the gate, on the side of my house.
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Good day!! EDIT::: WOW!!! There are two quarter-turn pins, but also seven screws, three connectors (that were really tight on my 06), one light, and the OBD port that was on the front knee pad cover... SO!!! Don't worry about it... I'll look at the pictures I just took... But at first glance, I think the casting is the same for both manual and auto versions... I'll look into this more tonight... :::::: I think there is a cover under the dash that I would need pulled off... Two quarter-turn locking pins and it should pull out, if I'm not mistaken... I'm wanting to see all the brackets and how the manual pedal support looks compared to the automatic version all the V8 models have... Realoem says they are different and BMW has different part numbers for each, but I want to see to what extent... No worries on waiting until it is warm enough!! Or to make your task even easier is if someone already has a picture avail... Thanks so much!!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!
So, I was thinking about how to go about this... Do I post as I find and discover stuff, or just wait til the finished product and do one long how-to? So, for now I'm gonna add as I go... I pulled a brake pedal assembly from one of the X5's in the PIY... I may go back for the other before they crush it... I also pulled a manual brake pedal assembly from a 525i... the brake pedal was obviously smaller, but the weld on the back of our auto brake pedal is in the same spot as the manual pedal... trimming the "fat" from ours would be just as good as buying one new or used... and the mods would go unnoticed under the cover from the donor 5-series! The 5-series pedal has a different welded sensor stop... The clutch pedals are all the same. The springs all work the same. The bushings are all the same. The brackets are all the same. The input cylinder is the same... even the mountings hardware for the cylinder is the same! I spent 37 bucks for two assemblies (only really needing the 525i) and got nearly everything I need to make my auto version into a manual version! No need to purchase anything on that assembly from BMW... there is a missing clutch pedal pivot pin on the auto X5 assembly... that missing pin denotes it's automatic trans part number instead of the manual trans part number... all those pins are the same... I need one... there are two in the assembly I got from the 525i... I'll press both out tomorrow and press one in my 2006 assembly and the other in the spare I got today... I'll have pictures and measurements for you all tomorrow... and the finished product... I'm also getting with BMW about the rigid hydraulic clutch lines being pre-bent... I'll probably just buy those new since they are X5 specific... That should cover almost all the pedal mods... I hope all X5's are pre-wired for clutch switches! That would make my life so so so much easier! Short of finding where they hid the connectors! Okay, until tomorrow! Pictures and finished assembly! Cheers! |
Good day all!!
Well, as promised (maybe a little later than stated) here are the pictures I took today. You really do need a press for this part of the process unless you purchase the pedal support from BMW with both pins installed OR use the 3.0L manual trans donor X5... Keep in mind that I only needed the 5-series (E39 525i in this case) pedal support... With pedals and clutch cylinder and sensors, it ran me $12.78 (I think) from the PIY... The rest I did at work since I don't have a press yet... This is current configuration... Now, you don't need to take the pedal off in order to get the support out, but it would make life easier... Only three bolts (13mm)... Disconnect the pedal from the brake master cylinder by removing the clip and pushing the pin thru... Wiggle it out... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/ruHpNl.jpg This is the side that had the "input clutch cylinder"... Now, if you look in REALOEM.COM, you will find only one mounting bolt holding the bracket and cylinder to the support... I recommend breaking the bank and getting the other bolt and nut to keep it lined up right... You will notice a raised lip on the forward mounting point... It won't keep it centered enough to eliminate the arm from contacting the housing on the cylinder... That little bit does make a difference... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/RDmWMq.jpg Now, all the pins I measured were almost exactly 47mm from the support... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/d7Fm77.jpg You can press these in the support in either direction... It just depends on the better surface to use as a brace... I found it easiest to use the vice to press the pin into place... Don't go too far, like me!!! UGH!! I went to 46.33mm the first time... Work your way up to 47mm... This is pulling the pins from the 525i support... A little pressure to break the bond it's had (for however many years) and it's easy after that... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/ZTAzvG.jpg Here are the pins out... One was brake pivot and the other was clutch pivot... They are both clutch pivots now... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/MjIdab.jpg Only the splines really bite into the aluminum... So, no worries about messing up the smooth surface where the pedal will slide on... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/WcumxQ.jpg Getting into position... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/CQEahE.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/qmes4x.jpg All done... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/0MJulh.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/EQGcB9.jpg I'm just going to trace the stock 525i brake pedal face and transfer that over to the long brake pedal in our auto version vehicles... A little cutting with the cut-off wheel and it'll work great!! Pedal arm weld on the back is in the same exact location... The only difference is the surface of the face, as you can see... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/JnrymO.jpg And, another bonus... You don't have to get a new cover... Just cut the plastic on the inside edge where that little white square is, and you have your clutch pedal cut-out done... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/P9eNl9.jpg I'm still checking on the lines... I sent an email to one of the online BMW parts places... I'm not going to drop any dimes, but he stated that I sent him part numbers that were NOT OEM BMW numbers... Maybe he should use REALOEM (or even GOOGLE for that matter) at his dealership... So, I am still trying to find out if the lines for the clutch hydraulics are pre-bent from BMW... If they are pre-bent, I may just order about a half dozen sets... EDIT:: I was doing a little more digging and it appears this is the line that connects to the "output clutch cylinder" and is also on the 5-series donor vehicles... I'm going back to the yard tomorrow anyway, so I'll check to see if this is still avail and looks the same as the picture I stole off the internet... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/6VfqZk.jpg Also still checking on the pre-wired harness for the clutch switches... I found a single twisted pair under the dash that could work, but the switches have three wires for each... That's it for now... Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
I got my butt up and going this morning despite being on graveyard shift so that I could hit the yard again to get the hydraulic line and output clutch cylinder... Both were still there and in really great condition after cleaning them up... Unless the vehicle is from up north, I really don't see this stuff having any issues... So, subtract another item from the "Need to purchase NEW from BMW" list... That hydraulic line in the above picture was indeed on the 525i I pulled the clutch pedal assembly from... The bracket that holds it in place on the output clutch cylinder was also the same... Not sure how many of yous are aware, but BMW put a Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) on the output clutch cylinder to save us from ourselves... It was designed for those that don't know how to exactly master the release in 1st gear... For those of use that do know how to do this, the valve becomes a little annoying... I have deleted mine from the 540i as most others do... I have taken the one on this cylinder off as well... The line will thread directly onto the cylinder, so no need to pull the CDV and drill it out like most seem to think is necessary... The coil in the line (pictured above) will soak up any difference the lack of the CDV makes... I also pulled the pedal assembly from the other X5 that was in the yard... Oddly, I found that it was different in a few aspects... The brake pedal itself was totally different where it mounts to the support and the master cylinder arm... It uses two roller bearings in the pedal and the pin is welded to the arm that connects to the master cylinder arm... I like the new version!! I think I will ditch this one and keep the support for future mods... The other thing different was the brake pivot pin is "pinned" to the support... Not sure if it is pressed in, but there is a roll pin thru the support and pivot pin... How many did I confuse with all that?! So, I think we might need to update the support assembly if you have a 99 thru 9/01... I also pulled the carpet back to look for that missing clutch pedal connector(s)... The only one I found was the one mentioned above... HOWEVER!!! It is a three pin connector with two wires in it... The other end of that connector does have three wires... I need some wire color codes for the existing clutch switches from a 3.0L manual... And possibly where the wires are coming from... That is all I have for now... Still getting the parts together, but I hope to start this in the next couple of weeks on my 2004... Cheers!! |
GOOD DAY ALL!!!
Well, I accidentally stumbled upon yet another amazing deal!! Maybe I should leave this one alone and let others have a chance to buy a project too... But this one is the color I have been looking for!! And the price is the cheapest I have found for an E53 yet... Needing motor work... So, dilemma!! I already have three X5's... Do I really need another?! I've named them using the last digit of their year... I have "2", "4", and "6" currently... This new one would add "3" to the list... And I like the idea of converting the pre-face lift version due to the transmission associated with that motor is more readily available in the PIY's... Oh, did I mention it was the color I wanted... Right... I blew up the fan on my 540i this morning... It took out the overflow tank... UGH!! May park that in the back for now... I think I have "4" transmission issues worked out... And I don't want to convert the non-sport model "6" I just recently got... So, that leaves my 4.6is ("2") and the one I'm looking at buying now ("3")... "2" is running great and is my daily driver... Taking it down to convert isn't logical... Additionally, I have the transmission for converting "3" (the vehicle I have to still buy)... I'd have to buy a newer version to convert "4" or "6"... So, buy a vehicle to convert, or a transmission... Ironically, both are about the same price... What to do!?! Decisions decisions!!!! EDIT::: Well, as it turns out, the 2003 I went to look at had damage behind the rear door on the rocker panel that left a gap between the body and door seal... I do motor and trans work... I don't want to mess with pulling a rocker panel out straight to close up a door gap... Cheers!! |
I was doing some searching myself and on car-part I find 540 transmissions going for 4-600 bucks, and 545/550 trans for the N62s from 600-1000.
I started looking into a 4.6 or a 4.8, and 4.8s are not that much more expensive over a 4.6. I wonder if this conversion would be almost as straight-forward for the facelifted trucks.. |
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I am doing the conversion for both version of our E53's... The motor determines the trans... M62/TU gets the S6S-420G... While the N62 gets GS6-53BZ... Trans cross member mounting will be different too... After that, it is pretty much the same, depending on the distance from the output shaft to the rear diff... They might need different drive shaft modifications or fabrications... I haven't gotten that far yet... Computer programming will be the same process, just using different data... I should compile a couple spreadsheets with the relative data for each version... Hope this helped answer your question... Cheers!! |
Wow, you're really doing it! Can't wait to see how it turns out. Maybe this conversion won't be as ridiculously expensive as I originally thought. My own estimate had the cost of a proper conversion being more than I paid for the X5 itself...
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Good day all!!!
Well, it's time for an update... I'm stuck fixing the 2006 motor issue that seems like it will take a couple weekends... I don't WANT to take my 4.6is off-line yet, but... I got the 540i back on the road... So, I may actually pull the 06 off the list for repairs and do the conversion on the 4.6is... I've gotten a lot of parts, but I fear I actually have to get the project under way in order to determine what I still need... I have ordered the clutch lines that aren't stock on lots of other BMW's... I have been advised that it is NOT pre-bent... I only ordered one in the off-chance I need to bend the tubing... Keep your fingers crossed I open the box and see it ready to bolt on the X5 as is... If it is not pre-bent, I may need to stock up on those from the salvage yard manual 3.0L's... OR at least get a good one to copy... Well, I need to take vacation time to do this... I'm super excited to get the project underway, but bummed work is getting in the way... It wouldn't be so bad if I wasn't on graveyard shift... Cheers for now!! |
You are the man!
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Good day all!!
I agree... The more and more I think about this, it will be better for me to take the 4.6is offline for the conversion... I have a ton of things all happening at the same time... I think I will need to buy a welder at some point... I'm looking at the transmission cross member at this very moment and don't like the route I have to go with it... I wish I could flip it around and move the main support towards the front instead of facing the rear... I might still be able to do that, but it isn't looking too promising at first glance... I think I will have to either cut the transfer case mount off and weld on the correct support for the transmission used... OR make something new all together... The worst part of taking the 4.6is offline for the conversion is that I have to see it sit for the duration of the conversion... Since it will be the first in my garage, it will take the longest... UGH!!! Maybe I should buy a 2001 4.4L to go first... LOL!!! So, the other issue is the clutch start and cruise cut-off switch... Now, the cruise switch I think it totally needed.... But, do you really need to have a clutch switch to start the vehicle? Us old fogies know all too well that you have to push the clutch in before you start the vehicle... Why? Because you always put it in gear when parked!!! I've seen far too often, the younger generation relies on the E-brake far too much... Their reason: "So it doesn't jump when I let the clutch out after I start it!" Too funny!! How many absolutely want the clutch start switch working? Cheers!! |
Everything can be fabbed. If its just a matter of welding some pieces together, easy to do. I imagine if you talked to a fab shop that works on jeeps or such they could rig something up.
As for the switch, I say ditch it. Personally, I think the less electronics involved the better. |
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I also vote to ditch the clutch start switch if it's not necessary. |
So in looking through what parts are needed to get this done just want to make sure I'm on the right path.
-Tranny needs to be a Getrag 420G. Do years matter? -Pedal and shifter components would need to come from a 3.0 E53. Some modifications needed for fitment. - For the hydraulics does it need to come from a 3.0 or the donor tranny car? -I believe the only electronics needed are getting the reverse lights, side view mirror tilt down for reverse and getting the shift indicator off the dash. -Drive shaft, been reading some e39 stuff and it seems it just needs to be modified for the u joint/coupling and put to the correct length. -Since the T case/AWD is mechanical shouldn't need to worry about any electrical components. -Cross member may need to be modified or fabbed -If the AWD is going bye bye, do you need to use a oil pan from a another M62 or would you just remove the diff and cap the area? -Along with front diff being removed, CV's are going away as well. Will that effect anything for the wheel bearings? My thought is no since those should be pressed into the knuckles. Anything else...... |
The electronics are going to be more complicated. Once the automatic transmission is removed, there are going to be transmission warnings and faults (will probably go into "limp home" mode). So, the ECM will have to be reprogrammed somehow so the car will "know" it has a manual transmission and quit looking for the automatic.
For the front drive shafts, you will have to leave the outer "socket" for the CV joint in the wheel carrier. That outer joint also is the spindle for the front wheel. |
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here was a good post that goes over a lot on the coding. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Wiring-Coding Makes sense on the CV's thought at the most that's all it would need |
Good day!!
Now that I have figured out what was killing my post (stupid ad at the top of this window), lets figure this out... Well, no such luck... Whatever ad is at the top of the webpage is removing the cursor from the typing window... So, if you hit backspace when it does this, you go to the previous page... I’m writing this up in Word and will just paste it when I’m done... -Tranny needs to be a Getrag 420G. Do years matter? The transmission depends on the year and motor you have in your X5... The M62 gets the E39 540i transmission and the N62 gets the E60 545i transmission. -Pedal and shifter components would need to come from a 3.0 E53. Some modifications needed for fitment. Actually, I have worked it out that you can use almost every single part, you either already have in the X5 AND can get from the vehicle you get the transmission from. I think that was on page 5 (post 45). - For the hydraulics does it need to come from a 3.0 or the donor tranny car? This too is from the donor vehicle with the one pipe exception that I should be getting in the mail next week... I hope it is pre-bent to save a lot of headaches. -I believe the only electronics needed are getting the reverse lights, side view mirror tilt down for reverse and getting the shift indicator off the dash. The information you supplied concerning the 540iT manual swap will come in handy, but essentially, it will resemble how the factory would have done it. IIRC, there is NO transmission computer in my 2001 540i6. Maybe we’ll get lucky and the wires for the manual trans will be tucked into the harness somewhere. But probably not. -Drive shaft, been reading some e39 stuff and it seems it just needs to be modified for the u joint/coupling and put to the correct length. I still have to get the manual installed and aligned correctly to determine what, if any front half of a BMW drive shaft I can use with our original back half section. I would rather just source OEM parts than custom make one... More to come on that... -Since the T case/AWD is mechanical shouldn't need to worry about any electrical components. Very true for the pre-face lifts... The 2004 and 2006 models will need some additional mods here... -Cross member may need to be modified or fabbed. Indeed!! I can’t wait to get this 2006 out of my garage so I can take a look at what I have to work with... From earlier measurements, I have to move or mod the existing X-member forward about ten inches... I’ll probably end up making something very sturdy, but basic to keep the trans from moving around... -If the AWD is going bye bye, do you need to use a oil pan from a another M62 or would you just remove the diff and cap the area? The oil pan is sealed from the front drive parts... Just pull the front wheel drive parts and you are good... Technically, I guess you could get the oil pan from the donor vehicle if you wanted to make things pretty. I might just do that for future reference... -Along with front diff being removed, CV's are going away as well. Will that effect anything for the wheel bearings? My thought is no since those should be pressed into the knuckles. Everything concerning the 4x4 will be removed except the outer CV joint housing... You can take the CV joint apart and just keep the housing (ASK ME HOW I KNOW!)... Anything else...... Oh, I am sure there will be a huge list when I’m done... I’ll try to make it very easy to follow like the one you posted below!!! Quote:
Cheers all!! |
I have a 4.6is so m62. Looked around a little bit more for used trannys. Should be easy to find one. People had recommended getting a new clutch pack as it should have most of the items for the new clutch setup. Are you doing that or is your clutch good? Other question do you think it would be easier to just piece together tranny parts or find a 540 donor? See 540s pop up for 2k or less but needing work. Figured could probably part it out to recoup some cost. Last question....for now......since chassis are all basically the same on the X will it be similar to the e39s that you just "punch" out the panels and such rather than needing to cut out areas? Thanks again!
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Getting a salvaged 540i6 would work if you had the room to storage until parting out was complete. I acquired a 420G a while back and I am getting a flywheel and clutch set next weekend. I'm missing the clutch fork and TO bearing. But since they are the same on almost every BMW since 81, I think I will be able to find them. Your chassis question is a good one... And the answer is YES... From what I have found thus far, the chassis is cut for every option available... Including the manual transmission... We have to pop out some plugs and fill in some... Once I get 6 out of my garage, I will annotate every part needed to get the conversion completed. I'll have the procedure after that... I'm excited to get this started... Stay tuned all!! Cheers!!! |
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Regarding your problem with the pop-up ads, upgrading to a premiere membership removes the ads. I think it's $10/year. Might be worth it to upgrade. I know I let mine expire a couple of months ago. Need to re-up… |
Awesome, can't wait to see this happen. I've been dreaming the past few night of driving the X with a stick. MMMMMMM, manual gear changes with a german V8......:D
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BUT, I think you do have a point... It's kind of like rebuilding a motor, but leaving the old valve stem seals in... Just do it all, while you are in there... I think I will include the how-to to include the starter disable clutch switch... Just because that is how BMW would have done it... I just really hate cutting and splicing into wire harnesses... I really hope they included terminal plugs under the dash somewhere that just have jumpers in them since we have autos... I could just pull the jumper and plug it into the correct switch!! That would make my job OHHHHH SO MUCH EASIER!!! Sigh... Added to the list... I'm still acquiring parts... And I have to get the 2006 finished (so says the better half) before I can start on the conversion... I think she just doesn't want me to make her drive the 540i... She loves my 4.6is as much as I do... I see another 4.6is getting added to the family in the near future... Maybe I'll get Estoril blue this time!! Cheers!!! |
Just remember this: WWBMWD :)
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What Women Bid, Men Will Do?
White Water BMW Device? LOL! IDK! What? EDIT: Ohhhhh, I know.... What Would BMW Do?! Cheers! |
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I will be stocking up on all these parts needed to do the conversion... So, if someone wants it done, I will have everything set out and ready to install to make the conversion quicker... As it turns out, I might be forced to convert the 2004 first... I just can't seem to get that 6hp26 to cooperate!! And I am getting tired of draining the fluid to swap something on the valve body... I'm going to give it another week... If it is still doing the same thing, it is getting pulled in favor of a manual trans... I have the pedal assembly all ready to go... A few more items to get or modify... I was looking at the trans cross member yesterday when I was finishing up the rebuilt valve body install... It might not be as difficult as I had originally figured... It is a shame that I might convert "4" over before "2" (2004 4.4L vs 2002 4.6is; I have three so I named them)... I have a transmission ready to get installed in "2"... Hmmmmmmmmm, I wonder if it will fit in "4"?? Well, so much for that idea, not that I was really serious... It appears I will need to get a bigger garage if I am going to have conversion kits ready to install... The E39 540i parts and the E60 545i parts are totally different, with the exception of the pivot pin and the output clutch cylinder (on trans)... clutch sets, flywheels, clutch forks, yada yada... are all different... I'm going to need twice as many parts for the two different versions... Well, I'm going to see how the first one goes before I purchase a bigger shop... LOL!! Cheers!! |
Nice to see someone else exploring this. I made the decision as well for my 4.6is, but I have many other projects ahead of this one. I have an e39 6spd trans and pedals, and the hydraulics/shift linkage from the 3.0 as well as a UUC e53 shifter. I've swapped four 540i's so far, and one 525iaT to an M5 touring, so the conversion should be simple. The most difficult part will be measuring the driveshaft and sending it out to be lengthened.
One thing it will certainly need (IMO) is an LSD in the rear. The e30, e36 (M), e28, e34, e23, e24 and possibly others have available 188mm LSD's in a variety of gearing. I feel the 3.64 in the 4.4, and especially the 3.91 in the 4.6 would be too short for the 6spd manual... Considering the 540i/6 came with a 2.93 and the M5 with a 3.15. The e34 535i/5 came with a 3.46 LSD, and the 92-95 525i/5's came with a 3.23 LSD, which would be just a *hair* shorter than the e39 m5's 3.15 ratio. Both should allow the X to get up and move just fine, and would make them quite a bit more economical on the highway. |
My E39 M5 has the Dinan 3.45 LSD and its a great match up for the manual transmission. So I wouldn't hesitate to consider the 3.45, 3.46 diff for the X5 conversion.
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You bring up an excellent point... I have the 4.4L in "4" and the 4.6L in "2"... I am not going to type this out loud, so everyone cover their ears, but I think the trans in "4" is getting better... Maybe air purging out of all the little places in the valve body... and it's re-learning all over again... It didn't really act up on the way home... It shifts REALLY REALLY quickly thru first, second, and third... It just wants to be in fourth for some reason... I haven't taken it to "SPORT" mode yet... Shhhhhh.... We don't want to frighten it... SOOOOOO.... If I do "2" first... I think I will have to swap in the 4.4L rear diff for now... Only because I have to do some extensive research as to what I can do with the housing and avail parts from other BMW's... No other BMW rear diff will just bolt in like in the days of old... and nearly every bigger motor base model had an LSD option avail prior to 96... We lose the LSD, but gain ASC or DSC... Ummmmmmmm....... But, I would love to have the 3.23 or something around that... I had swapped in the 3.15 in my second 540i, and it was a huge improvement to many things!! I'm off to sleep... Cheers all!!! |
Just wondering why you would want to go down in the ratio? I think you would lose some low end performance. I know it boils down to final drive ratios but I don't see the advantage of going with small rear gears. With the addition of the extra gear for the manny swap I would think it would balance it out. But again without doing the calculations no way of knowing. Plus a deeper gear will make that low end torque a lot of fun. I do agree a LSD would be an awesome addition.
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I was wondering the same thing. I haven't looked up the ratios in the 5 speed automatic in the 4.6is and compared them to the 540i 6MT, but I had an expectation that the post-swap 6th gear would calm things down on the highway. Maybe I'm wrong? But yes, the LSD would be nice to have.
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Good day!! Well, it is all about quick or fast... I wouldn't mind having both all the time, but with hard rear diffs, we have to pick... It would be nice to have a rear diff we can change like our transmissions, but that is probably some time away... I would love to have the 3.91 all the time, but it all comes down to fun versus usefulness... I'm running over 3000 RPM's on the highway cruising with traffic... It is just a little much for me... The final gear for the 5hp24 is 0.80 (over drive)... The final gear for the 540i 6MT is 0.828 (over drive)... So, they would be nearly identical at cruising speed... However, off the line the 5HP has a first gear of 3.57 and the 6MT has 4.227... So, first gear for the 6MT would be almost invisible using the 3.91 rear diff currently in the 4.6is... If I drop the rear diff to the 3.64 (currently in the 4.4L) or the 3.23 out of a 2005 525i (if it will work), I would get the best (or better) of both worlds... The additional gears would make use of the higher rear diff ratio, but still have lower RPM's cruising with traffic... How many of yous did I totally confuse? Thanks again E34PLAY for bringing this up as it needs to be something to consider and be on my radar for a working final product... Cheers all!! |
So checked out one of the jeep sites i use. Grimmjeeper.com for those that want to see. Plugged in the info and honestly the only advantage you'd see is higher top speed 170 vs 158 and higher speeds at given rpms. 3.91 will be at 2.6k at 70mph and 3.64 will be 2.5k. Personally, I wouldnt see the advantage of loosing low end for marginal rpm drop at cruising speeds, but just my 2cents.
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Additionally, the item that really stands out, that the calculator on the Jeep site can't tell you, is how fast you will burn thru first gear... It will be a mere blip before you need to shift into second... If you figure the 4.227 for first and 3.91 rear, your top speed at 5K RPM's is like 12MPH... Honestly, I'm totally guessing on the 12 MPH... But you get the idea... The 4.6is has enough torque to still get you going rather quickly with the 3.23 or 3.64 gears... Heck, the 540i/6 is a 4.4L and a final drive of 2.81... I still have a huge grin every time I test the traction control on my E39... In the end, to each his own... I would rather go fast slower, but go faster in the end... Others like to go fast quickly, but not so fast in the end... Ummmmmmmm!! WAIT!!! What were we talking about again?! Cheers!! |
It's fun to break new ground. I applaud those that take the risk.
Based on your first post your goal is to get away from the stock automatic transmission you are having problems with and perhaps improve economy. Going to 2wd will gain some HP/TQ lost in AWD hopefully resulting in better economy. And, a manual transmission driveline fully locks where the torque convertor always allows some slip. Also, to best of my knowledge it would be one of a kind if that is important. Even though you already have a manual 6 speed, there are so many unknowns in a conversion and still considerable cost and time investment, I would have the transmission rebuilt, add Dinan transmission software and be done with it. I am at about 117,000 miles on original transmission in 4.6 that is heavily modded. I have the Dinan transmission software and have changed the fluid with ZF fluid every 40,000 miles. I recently replaced the internal wiring harness--that's it. The Dinan software will give you more attributes of a manual transmission and you can add more fun if you do a paddleshift steering wheel conversion. If you want to improve economy I would first try tires that were at least an inch taller to see what happens to economy and if you like how it is on the highway. If that gives you what you want then find diffs that get that same highway rpm with stock tires. The reason to try tires first is the change might not improve economy if the engine is not running as efficiently as much of the time. Rather than seeking a particular highway rpm I would try to get as close to the rpms where the engine is most efficient at the speed I normally travel. FYI, due to frontal area and weight, the maximum speed of a stock 4.6 is 153 mph. Wind resistance is then a wall. |
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Good day!! All I really want to do is be able to pop-start the X if the battery is low....... Okay, not really... Being rare is a bonus, but I'm really after the fun factor of my E39 540i/6 squashed into the roomier and bigger SAV equivalent... I love my 540i6, but I've gotten use to sitting up a little higher... Going 170 MPH really isn't my goal, unlike what I kinda said earlier... It is just a by-product of what I really want; lower RPM's at a given highway speed... I have gone 155 MPH's when I was stationed in Germany for that short year... It is completely worth it if you have the means... To be "allowed" to cruise at or near the electronic limit of the vehicle is truly worth the price of admission!!! BUT, I wouldn't want to do that in the X5... It's just got such a big butt... It would be difficult to really control in any sort of cross wind... I think initially I wanted to get rid of my problematic 6hp26 in the 2004... But that is going to be down the road as the parts to convert it have not yet hit the "cheap" area that the E39 540i parts have... I thought about purchasing another 2001-2003 so I don't mess with my 2002 4.6is since it still works great... I can't seem to get it back from my better half... That is a little frustrating, but a totally different topic of conversation... Oddly, I purchased the 4.6is with the impression from the seller it had a bad transmission... It ended up being the "aftermarket splined" front drive shaft... The DS failed but didn't even mess with the TC splines... I didn't think it was possible either until I looked at the TC... The TC in the X had better splines than the one I purchased to replace it... So, it became my daily driver... I was going to pull the TC and weld the planetary gears to have a locked RWD until I got my replacement TC... That didn't happen, but for the better... Okay, book is long enough... Sill waiting on the 2006 to get resolved... It just sits out there and looks at me with a evil sort of smirk... It agrees, I think, that it was a little warmer so things could progress with it's repairs... Cheers!!! |
GOOD DAY ALL!!!
WhOOOOO HOOOOO!!!!! Guess what I got in the mail today!?!?! YEP!!! The clutch tubing parts came in today!! I was worried that it wasn't pre-bent... IT IS!!! I'm so excited I don't have to worry about dealing with that portion!!! I have to order about ten... Just so I will have them avail... So, I was looking back and noticed that I didn't have some items noted... This is the Clutch Delay Valve (CDV)... It slows the rate at which the clutch is engaged for inexperienced drivers... It annoys those of us that know how to use the clutch... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/tk9rqV.jpg I removed this one... See the smaller diameter insides? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/k8mBt3.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/rQdpEt.jpg Here is the pedal area I cut away using the tape template I made from the stock E39 brake pedal... I cut away all the yellow and tada!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/NeXCxs.jpg From right to left, we have the stock E39, the modified version I won't use (pre 2001 brake pedal), and the good one with the cover... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/jcTajf.jpg This is the pre 2001 pedal... Bearings and different design... I don't like it!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/Bj8Bwo.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/4n4xiT.jpg Here are the new parts... I am so crazy excited this is pre-bent! Really!! You have NOOOO idea!!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/AaoCSj.jpg and I got ten of these... ECS made me buy ten... They fill the hole where the brake fluid supply comes in from the master cylinder reservoir... There is just a plastic plug in that hole now... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/XJxO0P.jpg I got ten of these too... Think ECS made me buy ten of these too... Clutch stop buffer... Non-clutch units don't have them... Duh, right? Guess you could fashion anything to go there... BUT... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/j0DEF7.jpg and my unit all ready to go... I might start getting the updated input clutch cylinder... It has a slot for the start-disable and cruise-lockout in one hall-effect switch... Maybe... if the parts are cheaper, I'll go that route... I'm pretty sure the newer version (not pictured) is way more plentiful in the salvage yards... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/ys432I.jpg Oh, I got fluid hose... Could just save it from the E39 you pull the pedal assembly from... Or have new... 6 in one; half dozen in the other... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/j0DEF7.jpg Okay, that is all I have for now... Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, I figured it was time for an update... I am just about done with "6" and I will be getting "1" Monday afternoon if all goes as planned... My new patient is a non-sport 2001 (hence "1") 4.4L with transmission issues... I was going to use 2 as the first to get the 6MT transplant, but it is just doing so great right now... I'd hate to take a good operating X5 down when there are others out there that need rescue... As it stands right now, I have two complete sets for the PF version X5's... I'm still trying to source a good supplier of N62 version 6MT's and accessories (Flywheel, pressure plate, yada yada)... The 545i manuals aren't just as plentiful as the 540i/6's are... Which should be a crime in my book!! I have not recieved the shifter arm or associated hardware from ECS yet... So, I guess I don't quiet have two complete sets yet, technically... Drive shaft and trans cross member are going to be a project after the trans is installed... I'm going to have transmissions and front differentials avail for cheap if anyone needs one or knows someone that does... I guess that also goes for T-cases and front driveshafts... Okay!! So, I'm super excited to get this under way... Three more days... Just three more days if things go as planned... Cheers for now!! |
Awesome! Can't wait to see the "real" work begin!!
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Awesome! Can't wait to see how this shakes out. Hoping it works and I can start sourcing parts and do this next year.
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Good day all!
Figured it was time for an update... I finally got the project vehicle in the CLEAN garage and prepped for surgery! I failed to get any pictures prior to getting it put in the garage. I drove the vehicle home from Savannah, GA with a trans failsafe message. Once it got going, it was fine. The engine is strong, so I may just deal with any motor issues later on if the project is a success! It does have chain rattle noise on start-up. So, let’s get going! Here it is!! Famous “1” as I started calling them by their production year. I have 1, 2, 4, and 6 currently. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/TnaNvf.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/g9xMfo.jpg I started pulling apart the stuff that needed to come off... Found this... Little things will be addressed! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/u0oQRn.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/lYo4tT.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/VKAtWD.jpg Blurry. Sorry! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/snJom7.jpg This is a mess!! My CDO is getting to me here... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/DZAQcC.jpg AND WHAT IS THIS!? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/w6fOnQ.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/Il11iR.jpg And one of the biggest reasons why to convert the pre-facelift versions! The engine and trans harnesses are divided! The post-facelift versions have all the wires combined in one loom. UGH!!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/WdEvNG.jpg Going down to the trans!! All this is going away except for a few wires needed! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/FRG3yA.jpg This is where the clutch hydraulics gets it brake fluid from. Cut the melted crimp and attach your hose. Remove the round circle and the plug in the firewall for your hose. I’ll grab the length as time goes on. I got the 10m section (I think) from ECS... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/RMeOiu.jpg Soon to have a three-pedal design! I have two brake/clutch assemblies already made up. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/uHgynJ.jpg Comfort seats!! Wish it had Sport Package instead!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/lIJL9B.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/boaMQ9.jpg Options!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/NeOHnz.jpg This was the first thing I noticed. This arm for the shifter was not going into the slot for “D” easily. Also note this is the pre-updated shifter for gear selection. This one has the gear “+” going forward and gear “-“ going backwards. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/IGAZgt.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/mFxPYc.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/dF4tCN.jpg That is all I have so far... I’ll try to keep the pictures updated as this progresses... I did the headlights already since I can’t do much after work. I’m off tomorrow, so I should be able to get more done. I wish I had the pictures of the arm for the shifter! It is incredibly LONG by comparison to other BMW's I've worked with. I will have to fabricate something as the 3.0L trans and the 540i trans have different mounting designs for this arm. I'll try to get those pictures tomorrow. I can weld aluminium, but I'm trying to get this project "do-able" for most DIY'ers!!! Cheers!!! |
:yourock:
Oh yeah! Here we go! |
Nice to see you making some progress. And thanks for thinking of us DIY types that can not weld. I really appreciate you doing this thread.
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Good Day!
Here is the latest I have on the project... I’ve come to the conclusion that this is going to be more involved than most DIY’ers are willing to go. I found out tonight that to do this correctly, I would need to pull the dash, all heating and A/C components from the interior, seats, and center console. All that is so I can get the front section of carpet out, just to install the hydraulic line for the clutch... But, let’s keep moving on to see how much labor is going to be involved… Here is the arm... Incredibly long! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/vgNQ2D.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/DxVezP.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/e7u4kr.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/JWGlFK.jpg The easy part... Pulling the brake assembly to install the assembly already completed. Here is a “Before” shot!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/e5H1cq.jpg Pulling this for future upgrade... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/5GUf8w.jpg I find it easier to leave this connected and just pull the sensor from the adjuster housing... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/CURdaa.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/iwT0V7.jpg With these, you pull the red part out and depress the tabs to remove from the holder... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/jCp1EM.jpg I initially did not pull the metal plate, but dealing with that area so much, I decided it was better to remove it. You have to pull the headlight switch to access one of the screws, but the other five are easily seen. Here the metal panel is out... This is the unfinished “After” shot... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/CXd0qW.jpg I must say, this was easier to get out than I have seen on the internet (we all know everything is true on the internet!)... It was stated that the dash needed to be removed to get the center console out. Proof that it doesn’t... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/dSjJ1Y.jpg I can go over how to remove it if anyone needs me to. I will also say that getting this shifter out is more of a pain than it’s worth to leave the shifter cable in place... Better to just remove the shifter and cable together, unless there is some secret method I am unaware of... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/Zuu3HP.jpg Gotta remove this to pull the carpet... Push the tab and slide it to the left... Be careful of the connector!! Upon re-assembly, make sure the wire is out of the way... This one was a little crushed by the mounting plate... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/eFrxXR.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/ccEt4D.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/UFq0v3.jpg Okay, I don’t want to hear anything about what I did here!!!! In the essence of time, I decided to cut the carpet for ease of removal! Any future modifications will be done the long “correct” way!! It was difficult, but I have access to a rotary knife so it wasn’t that bad... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/mfmjKR.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/gAybZX.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/6KbYXz.jpg Oddly, I cut this in ALMOST the correct spot for the hydraulics to go thru the body... The plug and hole seems to be a little bit bigger than it should be. The plug on the line goes easily thru the body. I might be missing something and will look into it more later. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/mLS7a7.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/SPRzp3.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/GQYZPs.jpg The carpet has a depression for the tube. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/AcdsEP.jpg That little bump is where the line routes... There is also a depression in the section I removed... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/xEr7Ji.jpg This is connected... One zip tie and this part will be completed... Carpet install and I get to move on to better areas of the project!! Like transmission removal!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/1HQqXh.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/21eo4m.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/dbzna1.jpg And the hose I used was exactly 365mm long. I think you can get away with using something in that ballpark! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/j9bwJr.jpg Some things I do need to get! A driver’s seat bottom. A center console arm rest (mine has a factory phone and one hinge is broken), and a left rear exterior door handle. I’m going to try to pull the transmission tomorrow. I don’t have a clutch arm, throw out bearing, clutch arm pivot pin, or pilot bearing... So, while I can install the flywheel, the rest will have to wait. Okay!! Cheers for now!! More to come!! |
Good day!!
I just looked at realoem and the diagram for the hydraulic line is BACKWARDS or everything I just did is a huge coincidence! So, no luck on finding an adapter plug for the line going thru the body... Maybe I'll get lucky and a manual trans 3.0L X5 will show up in the PIY!! All the salvage yards leave this stuff in the vehicle when they recycle it... Such a shame! Cheers!! |
And possibly needing to bend the clutch line, in the event it was not "pre-bent" is what you were dreading...
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Cheers!!! |
Good day!!!
I got the transfer case out! It is incredibly light compared to the 4.6is version... I got one for my 2002 under the impression the drive shaft and TC were ruined... It was just the modified front drive shaft that failed without damaging the harder steel in the TC... Goes to show that some mods aren't worth the time or money... I got the trans out too... Despite it being more than twice the weight of the manual version going in, the flat pan makes pulling it easier than installing the 6-speed manual... I didn’t get pictures of this process, but can add some of the manual going in the next time I do that, if yous want. Here is the bottom of the shifter housing. This cover is added to the auto version since nothing really needs to go through the opening. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/JkuyN6.jpg And the cover removed... I may cut the rectangle and circle out and put this cover back... I'll find a plug to cover the hole the auto shifter cable came through... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/9QeqU4.jpg Here is the drive shaft for the rear. I’ll go over the length a little later... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/Ljs7Je.jpg And the auto flywheel. Note the hydraulic line hanging down for the clutch. I’ll show the gap this has in a second... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/5z2X1S.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/awgfqA.jpg Here is the gap this large plug has. There has to be another grommet that fits in here! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/Y2JP37.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/Rhk8ht.jpg I noticed the automatic was purchased from the large used parts supplier... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/RQtz0x.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/3MSQjw.jpg Well, this is what I found! Probably the result of a rush job installing the replacement transmission. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/SgJHcd.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/Ns1yyk.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/BtlDHP.jpg The starter casting is completely broken from the block... If this were not an initial project, I would replace the motor... Fortunately, the piece broke in such a way that it needs to be pushed forward (in relation to the front of the vehicle) to get back in place... Then the transmission sandwiches the piece to the block, and the starter aligns everything and further tightens things down... It is VERY unlikely it will move once everything is reinstalled... Here is the difference between the transmissions. This is not even including the transfer case... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/66TlA8.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/ApUr0A.jpg So, I got the new flywheel on and I made sure all the timing components lined up... I did not install the clutch disc or pressure plate on the flywheel yet... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/pYxAqZ.jpg I test fitted the manual trans to get some measurements... I still need some parts mentioned earlier... Here are some things I am contemplating... The front section of the rear drive shaft needs to be 340mm longer... It is currently 558mm from the support bearing housing to the end of the mounting ear... The guibo is 32mm... The 340mm measurement is from the mounting point on the guibo to the mounting point on the mounting ear of the output shaft on the trans... This is the gap I need to fill... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/002tTg.jpg I've taken my 540i drive shaft apart to replace the support bearing. I figure BMW wouldn't make huge variations of the same part if they can make it work... So, I just need to find a front section that is 898mm long... (To put this in American specs... The current front section is about 22in long... It needs to be 35.4in... The rear section is guesstimating just a half foot longer than the front, so the increase to the front half might bring them closer to the same length...) And the X5 front section is shorter by comparison to the front section of the 540i (probably due to the TC length)... Okay, now on to the shifter arm... The mounting for it is easy... Just push these through and bolt the mount... I did not order the nuts for this... Most BMW hardware is the same... I stole these from the strut at the strut tower... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/r1pfg8.jpg And from underneath... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/R0WU1f.jpg It is probably better than 20mm too long... HOWEVER!!!!!! I noticed that it is designed to run down the left of center... Maybe to make room for the long selector shaft (from the shifter to the trans)... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/SrgTkC.jpg So, I was toying with the idea of getting rid of the mounting fork at the end and hard bolting it to the trans... OR make a bracket that wraps around the square part of the arm and have that mount solidly to the trans... I'll play with that more... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/qrxf3x.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/7y9bnZ.jpg The other idea is to take the 540i arm and cut it off a couple inches from the trans, cut the X5 arm even to the mounting point on the 540i trans, and fasten them together solidly!! I like this last idea the best, but I can't say it will positively work since I don't have the 540i arm in my possession right now... The arm is cast aluminium, so I can't cut, bend, and drill a hole to mount to the trans... So far, all that is the easy stuff... Well, kinda... I may need to take the drive shaft to a shop and have them extend it... But now we get into the trans cross member... The main bulk of the cross member is far back from the trans support locations... I toyed with the idea of welding extension on the existing cross member, but I think the flex would make things "unsteady" and eventually break the welds over time... So, my other idea is to make some sort of mount that extends from the holes in the rail the current mounting hardware is and make a sort of "X" brace... I didn’t get good pictures of the cross member in place... I apologize! I’ll update with some tomorrow... But, you can see here that this isn’t that heavy... This strap is using the holes I want to utilize for my “X” brace (along with the existing mounting hardware location... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/b6eYlt.jpg I’m not sure I if I want to use part of the existing cross member, OR just start from scratch and align things in the process of its creation... I think this is the second hardest part of this conversion! Here are some "teasing" shots of the used 5-speed shifter I got from my son when he upgraded his 330i... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/dNICoF.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/v8rpUB.jpg That’s all for now!! Stay tuned!! Cheers!! |
Good day all!!
Well, work is slow tonight... Shhhhhh, don't say anything!! I don't need things here to start breaking down!! I looked up the various shifter arms BMW has to offer... I really like the transmission end of the E36 M3 arm... It uses the same grommet bushing the E39 uses and it has a slight bend up and over to the left (IF I flip it over after cutting it to the correct length)... I might even be able to measure and clamp together, end to end... Oh, I could go to such an extent to fabricate a solid part if I can get the casting to work... But that is far into the future of this project... I actually like this option so much, I just purchased the arm, new for $27... Along with all the other mounting items needed... Keep your fingers crossed this works!! I've also been looking at the front sections to the various drive shafts out there... I've asked for some measurements from some avail on the internet... We'll see if I get answers... I think I can work with one that is a tad short, but I can't foresee any easy way of dealing with one that's too long... And the last obstacle is the cross member... I might just bring the measurements into work and see what the other welder guru and I can come up with... I might end up making a jig or something to reproduce the cross member we come up with, if it comes out perfectly functionable!! (<---- I don't think that is a word, but you get the idea!) Cheers!!! |
I'm in the process of doing the same to my x5... this info is extremely helpful. If I run Into anything similar or different I will add to this topic as well if that's ok with you. Glad to see the progress
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk |
Nice progress man! Stoked to see this all coming together.
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Initially, I had thought about making a flat support for the trans mount, welded to the bottom of the existing CM... I figure this would cause too much flex and eventually break the weld... Today, I had the idea of cutting parallel to the frame rail vertically, welding a flat section of steel to the surface of the cut, and repeating the process at the end under the trans. I know a picture is worth 1000 words, and I hope to get that tonight... How do I explain this? I don't know... take a pencil and lay it on your computer desk pointed left or right... cut a section out of the center of it (cutting perfectly vertically down)... Move that center section forward (leaving the two sides where they are... Glue toothpicks to the cut ends... Make sense? This will retain the original mounting points on the original CM, and using the tubular steel will keep its integrity to hold the weight. The drive side will need to be cut at an angle due to the underside frame rail, but the pass side will be straight... Heck! Add as much as you want... Pictures are worth more than words here... Commentary is great, but we LOVE pictures!!! How close are you to finishing?! Cheers!! Quote:
Cheers!!! |
Good day!
So, I got the dash under panel modified to accept the clutch pedal... I think my CDO was getting the better of me... I'll get some pictures of that posted up tonight, if I'm able... I also got the original cassette holder out of the center storage, and installed the CD holder I found at the U Pull It Yard (UPIY)... Anyone want the cassette holders? Cheers for now!! |
Awesome!
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Good day all!!
Well, I was going to pull my driveshaft today and have it extended by a local driveline specialist in my area. He quoted me the same price for extending my E53 original or shortening a longer version (if I was able to find one)... $159 with no shipping since I'm local... That is about the price of something used, IF I was able to find the section I needed at the correct length... HOWEVER!! I discovered this today when I went to re-verify the extension I need for the OEM E53 drive shaft... The E53 guibo does not mate up to the E39 540i manual trans output flange... SOOOO, I need to get a 540i front section and cross all my fingers and toes that it will mate up to the back section of the E53 drive shaft... This is a little hard to see with the flash, but the centering pin isn't in the center... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/ukzRCi.jpg And the bolts obviously don't match up... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/WZLq9e.jpg I guess the other alternative would be to find the output flange off the E53 3.0L manual and cross fingers and such that it matches the splines of the 540i 6... Going to mess with the cross member tonight if work doesn't get in the way again!! Cheers for now... |
Good day all!
Well, I got my clutch parts... I think I will try to get them installed and finalized these coming days off... I would have never guessed the clutch arm pivot pin is plastic... But, I guess it works well enough to last over 200K miles... So, don't fix what's not broken... Here are the parts I got! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/b0a0eS.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/lAh8VN.jpg I ordered three pilot bearings since the BMW version was 22 bucks... These were off ebay for $7.50ish, $8.50ish, and over $12.00 for the Timken... I think the Nachi is the original made in Japan... Timken bearing is made in China... The Fag bearing is made in Korea... I honestly think the OEM Nachi is the best bet here... We'll see!! I will end up using all these pilot bearings, so I figured I would see how well one would hold up compared to the others... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/BVKGQe.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/k7QzTe.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/HMNA17.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/LUrGld.jpg I also did some much needed research after discovering the Universal Joint, as BMW calls it, or Guibo as we call it, is a different size for the 540i and X5... I am only able to use the driveshafts from a diesel version E46, the E34, the E38, the E39, and E31... So, to filter down this list a little... There are no diesel E46's in the US, the E34 has the center U-joint on the trans side of the center bearing (no-go), the E31 is too rare... That leaves the E38 and the E39 line-ups... Since we are pulling most everything else from the donor 540i, may as well keep the drive shaft for modification at a driveline shop... The only unknown at this point is if the union at the two halves is the same for both vehicles... If not, I will need to give the driveline shop both drive shafts and have them use the trans end of the 540i shaft to extend the trans end of the X5 shaft... That might be very do-able since they have to use material to make it longer anyway... May as well use OEM BMW tubing... IF the two are the same diameter!! Again, another hurdle to cross... Going to see about a guy with a welder for this cross member... Maybe I can get one of these hurdles completed tonight... Cheers for now!!! |
Good day all!!
Here are the before pictures... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/dIcQgP.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/QktC5e.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/JOY7X2.jpg During clean-up... Stage 1... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/r6qGBB.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/NJb8jE.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/rKAZoO.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/z50zxT.jpg And fine tuning the bracket removal... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/sURXNK.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/Zy2YyW.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/7ZfVCm.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/37wTGM.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/HbXv9Q.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/exL0wD.jpg Don’t forget to pull this prior to bracket removal... Then put it back!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/8kezdp.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/1o5M6G.jpg Painting will be done as soon as I get home... A final cleaning and paint to keep the rust away!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/8n5R3F.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/j7NQHA.jpg So, I was talking to my welder buddy with some ideas... The tube for the bolt is in the way of the original idea... So, I was thinking about going right down the center with the cut (center of the trans)... Then just putting one plate in there... Essentially, filling the void where the cut was made... Then just put a single plate at the bottom of the one coming from the cross member, to kind of make an odd “T”... I’ll take this back to the vehicle tomorrow morning and take some measurements... And some pictures!! I hope we can get this welded up tomorrow night and test fitted for my two days off... I’m working as quickly as I can on this guys and gals!! I might be over cautious, but I need the first one to be nearly perfect so I know it will work! And maybe have room to be even better, if someone sees something I don’t!!! Cheers for now!! |
Very Cool!
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Good day all!!
Well, I got the front half of the drive shaft I need to experiment with... So the thought process was to swap the front half of the E39 540i parts car with the back half of the E53, and have it modified to the correct length... Well, as my luck would have it, the bearing and the splines are NOT the same... I initially had a lot of pictures in here that, in the end didn't have any bearing on the finished product... So, in the essence of time, I omitted these pictures during the reposting of pictures for the entire journey. I initially had attempted to get a shaft that was the correct length and just bolt it in... I should have considered the difference in vehicles we’re dealing with... One is mostly performance and the other is mainly a super fun AWD minivan... Okay, maybe not that bad... I just can’t get the two to have a common crossover area with the drive shaft... We have to splice to get it to work... BUT!! At least BMW used the same tubing for both drive shafts... I’m open to ideas!! So, instead of having the driveline shop use their tubing to lengthen the shaft, I’ll just have them cut and weld all OEM BMW tubing... Cheers for now... I’m still getting the other stuff measured and together... I think I will have to weld the aluminum shifter arms together... Maybe I’ll just have a bunch welded up and avail for those that need them... Or, I guess you could always have a welding shop do it... My apologies everyone... I can’t figure a reasonable solid way to keep it from failing... I’ll get pictures of that asap... Cheers for now everyone... |
My hell William none of this scares you? You are the man. I am glad I did not try this on my own. Thanks for being the pioneer.
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I actually did this to a 95 T-bird, but not to completion... The Military called me overseas and I had to sell the project... No room to store it for that long... I mean to see this one through!! Cheers!! |
I would just take both shafts to a drive shaft shop and get a new one made based on new lengths and connections.
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I was curious how they were going to do the extension and where they would put the weld... He stated that the ends I need to keep would get cut, cleaned, and prepped for new tubing... So, no welding of the OEM tubing like I had figured... I think that might be a good thing too... He stated the new tubing would be thicker and in pristine condition, so less chances of having a weak spot from this or that over the years... I'm excited to see the finished product!!! Ahhh, now I am off to install the clutch components... I may even hook up the hydraulics and test that out... Cheers for now!!! |
Nice! I was going to say I know from having many shafts done for my jeeps most times they just get new tube and attach to u-joints to them and presto bongo! I'm glad you're making head way, I get all giddy every time I log in and see this thread at the top!
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Does ANYONE have a picture of a clutch replacement done on a 3.0L for our E53?? I think I can figure it out if I could just see what I need to look for... I just can't figure out anything concrete from realoem... I am gonna try to work on the shifter arm tonight... Maybe the cross member... I still have to create a shifter selection arm, but I don't think I should have too much trouble with that... ERRRRR, I mean... Ummmmmm... WHAT? Okay... Cheers!! |
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This one looks like it should fit a wire harness or just the tubing... I did consider this, but dismissed it due to the size in the drawing (that is wrong)... I have seen a scale difference in realoem before, but if this grommet fits, ummm... I should have just gotten one with my last order... EDIT:: I just spent $7.65 to get a $3.35 part... I really hope the drawing is not to scale, and this is the part I need!! The search will be over!! Thanks smokeyyank!!! Quote:
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Sweet, hope it works.
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Good day all!!
Well, I have been thinking about the shifter arm!! I noticed that the one I got sits between the two ribs, thus allowing for a lot of twisting on the rubber “bearing” as BMW calls it... So, instead of splicing two together, why not just take a section out of the original... Saves on cost and won’t change the fact you still have to find a shop to “weld” the two parts back together... So, I got the two new rubber bearings for the original arm... I will measure again before I cut it, but while the transmission is out, I got a few pictures. I decided to do away with the OEM locking pin in favor of a thru bolt, large washer, and lock nut... The two ribs will keep the bolt from twisting, and the two rubber bearings will add support to keep the arm from twisting on the bolt... I like it a lot more!! I have to add a shim to fill a gap, but so be it... Here you can see the bolt only has threads at the end past the arm... I initially picked a shorter bolt, but the treads went into the support area and I didn't like that... I will have to cut the end of this bolt so there isn't as much hanging out past the lock nut... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/vJsc1Z.jpg Note that this is not the rubber bearing I will be using... This one is for the other arm I had initially planned to use... The inner diameter is the same, but this is round and wider than the narrow oval pair I will be getting soon. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/bpNm7b.jpg I would just use the pin, but it goes thru the arm and trans from the left to right... And locks down on the left ear of the trans... The arm is more aligned if it is like this... I'll take another look once the arm is the correct length, but I think it will be better like this... The bolt and pin are the same diameter... Very small clearance in the transmission... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/E8fUcC.jpg Here is the self-adjusting pressure plate... This is used, obviously... As is the clutch and flywheel... If I am not mistaken, the spring pushes on the adjuster as the clutch disc wears... So, you need to start with a compressed spring and it will adjust the first time you push the clutch in... Here is how I got it in the initial position... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/ni318D.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/ufChBi.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/hdwvZM.jpg I was going to wait until I had that clutch line grommet for easier install, but the trans is ready to get put back in and locked down tight... I can put the starter back and button everything else back up... I found out the oxygen sensors are in the same loom the trans wires use... I will pull the loom and trans computer, but I'll be putting the trans loom back once it is ready... Cheers for now!! |
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Yep!!! You were right smokey!! This is the one!!! Well, I have great news!! The diagram in realoem was indeed not drawn to scale... The “Tulle” as my BMW parts supplier calls it, is the part I need to secure the clutch hydraulic tube to the body of the X5!! So, I’m going to get this installed and next is the transmission for the final time, hopefully!!! 20170526_154148 20170526_154138 I have started on the wiring too, but I will save all those pictures when I have figured out the ins and outs... I’ll try not to confuse anyone until I absolutely have to... And that includes ME!!! Cheers for now!!! |
Nice! Glad it worked.
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I got the first stage of the cross member done... I'll try to get pictures up tomorrow... It is crazy early A.M... Cheers for now!! |
Good day all!!
Here are the pictures I took last night... I didn’t get any of the front diff being out or the clutch disc alignment... It is rather neat having all that room in there to work where the front diff and the half shafts lived... This is the new tulle on the spare hydraulic line I purchased... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/voGk4F.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/c1y9tp.jpg I have to figure out the method to the madness getting them in... I found it best to have the line grommet on the outside of the X with the other one worked in place, then work the line grommet up with the assistance of a small flat tip... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/jF8s6V.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/qakSAK.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/bl009a.jpg And the view from the inside... I think it actually goes on the other way, but I got this installed and I was not about to fight with it again to flip it over... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/OHtkB8.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/9kFe8u.jpg I will add that the carpet does still sit all the way down over the line, despite it being up higher than I think it should be... Here is the stage 1 to the cross member... I tried to get the plate perfectly level I can modify as thing progress... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/iBPeMu.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/waslJJ.jpg 20170527_015043 http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/5X5CWv.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/5KaaPF.jpg I am not sure what happened to the rest of my pictures... I had some where you could see the long plate on the inside of the cross member... I’ll edit if I can locate them... Maybe the data fell on the floor in my garage after I took the picture... Found them... Here you can see the plate on the inside of the cross member... I didn't cut the plate to keep its integrity... I notched the cross member just enough to have the plate fit in the gap... I should dip this in some paint to coat the inside too... But I have a few more stages to go... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/OZh0Dm.jpg and here is the gap that I didn't fill in completely... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/26TVKy.jpg Here is the hardware I’m using for the trans mounts... I’m not actually stealing the hardware from my X... I have a sport set of front struts that will be installed soon... I kept the hardware when I pulled them... I still have to grab some more the next time I go to the YPIY... I need four of these... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/HiYxpY.jpg This is what was installed at some point... These are probably still good, but I want the sport version... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/U1ERsX.jpg That is it for now... Cheers all!!! |
Nice looking welds. Did you just cut a slot, put in the steel and weld it back up?
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Cheers!! |
Good day all!!
Here is the latest and greatest... I got the trans installed today... I got the clutch line bled with the assistance of my amazing better half!! The pressure plate popped to the adjusted position the first time I could get all the pressure off the disc, so don’t be alarmed if this happens to you too... It might have a little to do with alignment of everything too... It will find it’s perfect alignment... I put it in gear and had my better half let out the clutch slowly... It initially grabbed about an inch off the floor, but it would be about half way to get a good bite with the drive line in and the motor doing the work (I was turning it at the output shaft)... Oh, I didn’t get a picture, but the hydraulic port on the master cylinder reservoir is cut easily with a sharp razor... Have a catch cup, but it will empty the small section it uses rapidly, then it drips as that section fills back up... Fluid wouldn’t really flow thru the fill tube unless there is a leak... The only real fluid movement is from the pedal cylinder to the slave cylinder... I had to tweak the hydraulic line above the trans... I guess the clutch slave cylinder on the 3.0 is higher due to the configuration... The hose was pulled fairly tight with the V8... I just pulled down and over to the drive side a little... Just to get the hose off the side of the trans... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/wj2Llk.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/o726u8.jpg This is the spot the hose was touching... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/y9dolB.jpg Now on to the fun stuff... If I was a little smarter, I would have used the long bolt that came out of the cross member to reveal center line... I figured perpendicular to the cross member would be centerline... Nope!!! SO, I would measure about 90mm from the bolt to get a good centerline for the support bar... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/IolddY.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/ivUtJK.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/DQRX6G.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/o1AQDz.jpg I was a bit long, but better that than too short... Total length of the plate is about 400mm... About 250mm from the end of the cross member to the support would work... The plate doesn’t have to be so wide either... Maybe just enough above the cross member would be sufficient... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/1mFVxM.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/WblFGg.jpg Okay, ummmm... Now I guess I am going to look at wiring... I need more parts to continue... I have some stuff still on the way... Cheers for now!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, here is the most annoying part of this whole project... The wiring!! This is a recap of what I have discovered so far... The starting circuit is different between the two models (4.4L and 3.0L)... I would imagine the ability to convenient start the V8’s is the reason for the difference... I wouldn’t mind keeping the convenient start, but I am not sure the programming will allow it as some pins are reused for other functions... Notably is pin 8 on the A146 (EWS) module for the X5... The V8’s use it for a starter relay in the E-box. The 3.0L’s use it for the “Start Lock” or clutch start switch for the manuals... It is not used in the 3.0L automatics... Some of the circuits are not in WDS for the X5, so I am resorting to the E39’s... This works for the most part, but some of the wiring is a little different... Some modules are different names... I’m having to spend a lot of time confirming and verifying I’m pulling and splicing or swapping the correct wire(s)... What you are reading now is actually my way of keeping track of what I’m doing... I will be converting the starter circuit to mirror the 540i and 3.0L X5... They are essentially the same, as far as I can see and verify... The process for this, I have concluded will be as follows... I will pull the length of 4.0 RED wire from fuse 105 that feeds the EWS... That needs to connect to PIN 8 of S2 (ignition switch)... The wire that was in PIN 8 of S2 is coming from PIN 6 of the DME (??? Using 540i diagram)... This wire might be used for the reverse light circuit... The wire for PIN 8 of S2 doesn’t need to get pulled, but it does need to be heavy gauge... It’s a short hop between the EWS in the foot well on the driver side to the ignition switch... There are three feeders coming from fuse 105... They all have their own run from the fuse block behind the glove box... Disconnecting the correct feeder will give you the wire and the length you need, but I doubt you will be able to pull the whole run from the harness... Now, the wire in PIN 6 loc of the EWS can get pulled and tucked away in the harness... Leave the wire in PIN 8 loc of the EWS! It will be used for the “Start Lock” circuit... Moving over to the E-box, we need to pull the starter relay... PIN 6 and PIN 2 need to be pulled or snipped at the connector, stripped back, and connected together in some manner... I prefer to heat shrink and solder the wires... I will probably double heat shrink this area... The other wires going to the relay can be pulled from the nearest connector... One is the DME PIN 40 (??? Using the 540i diagram)... And the other is the wire we left in place in the EWS PIN 8 for the “Start Lock” circuit... OKAY!! This should conclude the start circuit mods... ******THIS REVERSE SWITCH WIRING HAD AN ERROR AT INITIAL POSTING!! IT HAS BEEN CORRECTED******** The easiest, I think, is the reverse light switch... Using the X5 and 540i diagrams, it is a basic runner using a pair of the old trans wires... It doesn’t matter which ones as it is only a status circuit, not high current... DME CONN 4 PIN 19 goes to IKE CONN 4 PIN 25... DME CONN 2 PIN 2 goes to Reverse switch PIN 1... (Either PIN will work on the switch, but the diagram says PIN 1, yada yada yada)... And Reverse switch PIN 2 goes to ground... Essentially, the trans switch tells the DME the reverse switch is closed, then the DME tells the IKE, then the IKE sends a signal to the LCM to light them up... AND that does it for the reverse light circuit... Now for the crazy stuff!! Clutch switches... Both... I have to verify the circuit after coding, but essentially, I am going to use the old wires from the starter circuit to wire in the “Start Lock” circuit... Oddly, it uses the same PIN 8 on the DME... I think it is a ground status wire... I’m not sure how the NON-USA manual trans models deal with it... It might just be in the coding... Anyway!!! The way the 3.0L has it wired is F39 has three runners... One going to the EWS, one going to the shift lock, and one going to “clutch pedal position switch”... So, I could tap off the one going to the EWS to supply the power to both of the hall-effect switches for the clutch... These are PIN 3 of each switch... The shift lock switch uses PIN 2 to go to the EWS PIN 8... And PIN 1 goes to ground... There is already a wire in the EWS PIN 8 that goes to the E-box (starter relay we pulled)... You can use this wire to route over to the shift lock switch (pedal all the way down)... This wire is blue/white... The clutch pedal position switch uses PIN 2 to go to the DME CONNECTOR 4 PIN 23... And PIN 1 goes to ground... There is another wire in the EWS PIN 6 that goes to the TCU CONNECTOR 3 PIN 3... Maybe we will get lucky enough that the pins in the TCU and DME are the same!!! And the pins in the EWS and clutch pedal position switch are the same!!! We can pull this Pin from the TCU connector and move it over to the DME connector... And pull the pin from the EWS connector and move it over to the clutch pedal position connector... This wire is ALSO blue/white... And that finishes out the clutch pedal switches... Well, this is what I am going to go with... So far, all this has just been research... I haven’t actually cut any wires yet, except getting rid of the trans wires from the harness... The oxygen sensor wires are also in that harness, so don’t cut everything and yank the whole harness out... Ahhhhhhhhh... Almost there... I’m still waiting on a few more parts!! Maybe tomorrow due to the holiday... I may take the cross member back into work and tweak it a little... Center things up and clean up the areas needed... Then it will be the shifter arm and shifter selector rod!! Cheers for now!!! |
Damn, that's a lot of pins and wires! Good thing you're recording it all!
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Absolutely! It'll be a little easier once I get in there and check out the pins... some of this might be easier than I'm making it out to be... I'll add a little note about all this rewiring! I would advise you pull the key and put it in the house or tool box... we don't want any modules to turn into paperweights! If the EWS gets the idea things are being tampered with, without the expressed written consent of the EWS ahead of time, you may need to sweet talk it into working again... Okay... I'm working these next two days, but I'll try to get as much done as possible with what I have... Maybe we'll get really lucky and the drive shaft will be finished tomorrow or the next day! Cheers! |
Good day all!!!
I got the parts I was waiting for!! I am very surprised at how the shifter selecting arm looks!! Very large by comparison to the 540i version!! But, maybe it needs to be!! I got a few more of those shifter washers... And the correct “bearings” for the shifter arm... And the clips in the event I can’t find the ones from my son’s old parts box... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/MU1UvJ.jpg Okay, this is something I found by accident… The automatics have a clicker in the pedal to simulate a “kick-down” function for the automatic trans... We don’t need this!! It has TS15 or TS20 Torx (5-point security) screws holding the cover on... I got rid of the security part in the center and used a perfect size flat tip... Obviously it worked... But use your best judgment here... Get the bit to fit it to make things easier... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/JhIGQ3.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/IAqZkB.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/ONdJZA.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/OUYv1N.jpg Tada!!! No more clicker... I looked at the connectors for the DME and TCU after work this morning... They are the SAME!!! So, just pull from the TCU connector and install in the DME connector... The pins we are concerned with in the EWS are the same as, or close to those in the DME/TCU... But I didn't get a good look at the clutch switch connectors yet... I will be doing a lot, if not all the wiring tomorrow!! I'm super excited to get this part done since it can run with no drive shaft or shifter linkage installed... It might be loud with no exhaust, but....... I don't want any dash errors!! And it needs to start, rev, and idle with NO ISSUES!!! Cheers for now!!! |
Good day!!!
I was looking at the REALOEM diagram (that we now know has a possibility of being wrong) concerning the shifter selection arm... It appears to have the bend pointing up, which would look upside down... Anyone with a manual 3.0L care to share how theirs is orientated? Maybe if you have pictures of your UUC upgrade (before and after)??? This is how realoem has it, I think... Keep in mind that there are only two possibilities... Both shown below... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/PSdw8u.jpg I think this might be a "little more gooder"..... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/QfaPvg.jpg I also noticed the other day that I have 3.64 gears... Not totally ideal, but I think it is a good place to start until I can figure out what else will fit in our rear diff housing... This is the front diff I don't need anymore... It is getting cleaned up and checked out tonight... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/vD20Nb.jpg More to come tomorrow!! Stay tuned for the coding! This is getting fun!! EDIT:: I was looking at the shifter connection on the transmission and I think the curve in the selection arm does need to be as in the realoem diagram (first picture above) in order to have clearance of the guibo... I also think the shifter arm is actually close to the correct length!! I will mess with this first after I get home (in about three hours)... Cheers!! |
Real progress, nicely done!
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Good day all!!!
I appreciate all the responses!! Thanks guys and gals!! I hope everyone that is enjoying this is learning a thing or two!! I know I have learned more than a few things about doing this kind of project!! So, a little update on the different aspects of the project... I called the Carolina Driveline of Spartanburg concerning the driveshaft... The guy working on that wasn't in when I called and I guess he had an appointment after lunch cause I didn't get a return call!! I got the trans support finished, more or less... I do have pictures that I will load up tonight... It is really amazing how well it turned out! I am going to wait on the final weld to verify the driveshaft alignment... I don't want to torque on the guibo if I don't have to... I currently have the top of the trans about 25mm from the bottom of the trans tunnel... The tighter I get that, the more aligned the shifter connections will be! I installed the shifter arm and I've determined it is about 70 to 90mm long, depending where you have the shifter poking thru the hole in the floor... I'm going to start with 70 and securely connect (but not weld) the two parts to see how things line up... I can trim more off if need be! I installed the rubber bearings in the arm to get a good measurement... They were a real PITA to get installed... AND I have to get them out before welding or they might melt... UGH!! Think I might get new ones and be done with it!! It was very solid with the bolt I am using!! The shifter selection rod is the same 70 to 90mm long, despite what I initially thought... It is a stout tube, so I was thinking bout cutting the section out of the middle and using a bar of the right diameter to hold the two halves together until I hit the ideal (for me) length... Then weld that together... I wrote down the procedure for the wiring... And I love how BMW used the same pin in almost every connector in the vehicle!! I am reusing wires for almost all the changes needed... The Ignition (S2) PIN 8 goes from a thin wire to a heavy gauge wire, so I need a new pin for that... And I need a new connector for the reverse switch... So far, it looks like everything else is a pull from one connector and moved to another... I'm not sure about the run from the DME to the IKE (cluster) for the reverse lights yet... I'm using the S2 PIN 8 old wire for that... I'll need a new connector for that since I can't allocate any other wires that I've found long enough... More to come on that!! The auto shifter has a bunch of wires and connectors that are no longer used, but they routed them under the pass seat to the outside frame rail, forward to the junction below the glove box... I think they would be long enough to make it to the IKE, but that is a TON of work... I do get to reuse some of those connectors for the clutch pedal switches, if needed... Okay, time to get back out there and continue with the journey!!! Cheers for now!! |
Good day all!!
Here are some pictures finally... This is how the support ended up... I’m still trying to get a word from Carolina Driveline on the status of my drive shaft... They must be super busy over there... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/AmxNnM.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/Nl1GIN.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/4RzaPq.jpg Now, about the wiring!! Oh my!! What a huge PITA that is!! I have to get some kind of standardized method to all that madness!!! It took me all of two days to get it nearly done... I need one connector for the reverse switch and one connector for the ignition switch... I had to pull the wire from the fuse block to have enough to make it to the switch... So, maybe a new long run of 4.0mm wire... Well, I’m going to look at the shifter arm lengths... Cheers for now!!! |
Nice progress! Wiring is always a PITA, lucky for the rest of us goons hopefully you get through the tough stuff and it will be easier the 2nd time around!
What did you use for the support bushings? Are you going to gusset the bottom of the brace? |
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I think the wiring was such a pain because I was running around the vehicle countless number of times... I need to do all the wiring in one section thru to completion... Then move to the next section!! I also pulled the trans wiring that was inside the vehicle... That is not necessary!! Don't do it!!! I ordered OEM 540i transmission mounts... I will be doing the bottom of the support after I figure if the drive line is straight... I can adjust height if need be before welding... I still have to trim the excess off the main support bar... I want to 45 the front bottom corner and dress up the edges... I called about the drive shaft today... The parts are getting prepped for welding and it should be done tomorrow or next Monday at the latest... Oh so close!! A little coding of some modules and.... Well, we'll see what happens... Cheers!!! |
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Just picked up a driveshaft from them yesterday for my e38. Was waiting 7 weeks. They are extremely busy! But spot on as always!! Nice work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Good day all!!!
Well, I have been debating what to do next... I am still waiting for a call from the driveline shop... I have the shifter arms tonight for modification, if possible... That leaves a few things for wiring and coding... I debated on waiting for a connector for my ignition switch... OR I can pull a length of wire from a salvage vehicle with the correct pin already connected... There are two other solid red wires in the connector that I can use for my PIN 8... The pin came out easily after pulling the connector apart... The only thing left is a reverse switch wire run down the side of the trans... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/pUzkSs.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/PAtts7.jpg and a little tug and the pin came right out... I could reuse this pin if I just solder the wire to the connector and existing wire... But I want it to look as original as possible... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/4c2hpM.jpg So, I will try to get over there this weekend... Maybe I will get lucky and find a manual trans BMW in the yard... They are really hard to find these days... After these last two wiring issues, I have the drive shaft, starter, some more interior stuff, and shifter arms to install... I put the carpet back in and it really looks unmolested... Cutting might not be the bad way to go in favor of pulling the entire dash... I don't mind pulling the dash tho!! I can get to some use-able wire easier... The A/C system will be the challenge there... I'd rather not break open that seal if I don't have to... Okay, off to get some work done!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, here is the modification I did to the shifter selection rod... I am still working on the shifter arm... I took out only 60mm from each... I can always take away until I get the correct length... It is a little bit harder to put back if I cut it too short... Here I am already done with the cut... The section that has the sticker is 58.92mm long... So, just over 60mm came out of the center... These are M16-2.0 bolts... They are the same length... It was surprisingly easy to tap the treads on the inside... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/LxueKM.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/O2p2NR.jpg This does say M16X2 D7 HSS!! (I don’t like my camera with poor lighting!!!!) http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/xoWjMe.jpg The black mark is center... This was a hex head bolt... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/pr4t7z.jpg And I actually did get this to turn one more revolution to nearly close up tight and still be aligned... Once I get it the correct length, all I have to do is tack it to keep it from spinning!!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/citRU6.jpg I’m still working on the arm... It is aluminium... and it’s square casting... This adds a whole additional degree of difficulty!! But, this is fun stuff!! Cheers for now!!! |
Good day all!!!
Well, everyone keep their fingers crossed the drive shaft is done tomorrow and it fits perfectly!! That way I can finish up some of this other stuff... I ran the reverse switch wires this morning... I used two of the old transmission wires from the big harness (red and black) but fished them thru the smaller harness after pulling all those wires out... It works out in a few ways like that... There is already a pin on the red wire that SHOULD fit perfectly in the DME connector (I think!)..... The wires are plenty long enough... And you can use normal spade connectors until you find the BMW version... I still have to get the power wire for the ignition switch, but I think that is the last of the wiring I need to do before programming... I'll determine the height of the trans on the mount and cross member support, install the shifter arms and take a couple measurements before doing the final cuts... Then all I'll have left is the exhaust and starter... I will probably put the starter in tomorrow morning to get it out of the way... Easy install with all the room now, not having front drive components in the way... I think the programming and coding is going to be the difficult part! I have to write down everything I do, when I do it, because if it works, then GREAT!! If not, I have to start over or back track a few steps, and keeping track as I go... Cheers for now!!! |
This is really heating up. Nice work William, hope everything continues to go relatively smoothly. As smoothly as customizing a driveline can go anyway. ;)
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I agree!! As smoothly as customizing can be!!! Thanks so much!! Cheers!! |
Good day everyone!!
Well, I failed to be awake before Carolina Driveline closed... So, I have to wait till tomorrow for that part... I lined up the shifter arm parts and got an ideal measurement... I’ve been thinking about an alternative method to locking them together... Pinning and JB weld?! I’ll think about that!! I wanted to get this centered... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/8kpGHo.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/qctqk2.jpg I may need to put another washer in here... There was still too much room! I don’t want to risk breaking the outer ear... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/8VrRyf.jpg With this in the center at the initial cut, I’m way too far back... The shifter will be hitting the radio in neutral... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/zSbvtw.jpg Move it to here and.... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/Le2Xyb.jpg I get this much overlap... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/aJj0uh.jpg I got the starter installed... It didn’t fit all the way in by hand... I had to draw it in with the bolts... I guess the broken web on my block was just a touch off... FYI, you can get the shield on the starter after the starter is in place... I have my list of stuff to get from the YPIY tomorrow... Wish me luck all the stuff I need is there!! Cheers for now!!! |
IMPORTANT CORRECTION!!
GOOD DAY ALL!!!
Make a note of an error I made with the pin location in the DME on Page 13!!! It has been corrected on that post number (annotated in red)... These are the reasons I double check my double check... I apologize for not catching this upon initial posting... Cheers!!! |
Good day all!
Well, I took out another 28.5mm from the gear selecting rod, but added a 12mm lock nut so it can be adjustable until I dial in the perfect measurement... Then I'll weld it and cut all future arms the perfect length and weld right away... no need to tap and insert a threaded section of a bolt... So, right now I can select any length between around 358mm up to 384mm... I highly doubt I'll need that much adjustment, but........ Unfortunately, I can't do this same adjustment stuff to the shifter arm... I need to find tune and get it perfect slowly without going excessively over... I may have found a way to pin it without welding... However, welding would be the best after the perfect length is achieved! And I got word from Carolina Driveline... The drive shaft should be done Thursday or Friday... Fingers crossed... I absolutely can't wait for that to be done... I'll try to get pictures tonight... Cheers for now! |
Good day all!!
Well, not such a good day here!! I called Carolina Driveline on Tuesday and they stated it should be done Thursday; Friday at the latest... I called them this morning and they stated that he was working on it right then and it should be done today... I just got off the phone with them and now they are saying Monday... I don't mind the waiting, but over estimate the completion date!! I've been holding off on doing the shifter arms for this drive shaft to be done... Now I get to find other things to do for my long three days off... What a waste of valuable time working on this project... I think I may have to look into finding another drive shaft specialist... Rant over!!! Well, I found out something interesting today... I hit the YPIY and got the wire I needed for the ignition switch... I actually got the whole connector and a foot of wire for all that are in the connector... HOWEVER, I pulled on the red wire going to the EWS and it started moving... A little more tug and it actually started pulling thru the harness from where I cut it above the fuse box... I will note here that it might be a good idea to complete some, if not all of this wiring BEFORE you install the clutch pedal assembly and hydraulic line... The wiring harness that holds this wire routes behind the pedal assembly and is a pain to deal with while the assembly is installed... ADDITIONALLY!! If you get the correct PIN, and you cut the correct wire at the bottom of the fuse box, you probably don't need to find any additional wire!! It was really close to being the perfect length at the spot I cut it... AND I did try to cut as much as I could in the pass side above the fuse box... So, cut it closer to the fuse box on the pass side and you should be good on the driver side at the switch!!! I test fitted the shifter arm... It looks really good... I am gonna try JB weld... I'm not holding my breath on this!! I may install a couple thin plates and pin them along the sides or top and bottom... If that doesn't look professional enough, I'll just weld it... Unfortunately, that means getting the bushings out so they won't melt... I guess I am off to coding and programming... That is pretty much the only thing left other than the drive line... I did find some decent 2003 valve covers today... I may send them out to get powder coated... OR I may just keep them for the KEEPER conversion... This white vehicle is the test vehicle... If it doesn't work, no harm done!! Non-sport with stock everything... BUT, If it DOES work, I'm finding a blue 2003 sport model!! With the sport steering wheel my 4.6is has!! That will be the keeper vehicle!!! Cheers for now!!! |
I sold my 4.6 but I keep coming back to this site just to follow your build. Can't wait for final results.
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I was so hoping Carolina Driveline was going to stick to their word they were saying all this week!! I might have been able to have it finished this weekend... I guess I get to do some other odds and ends instead... So, no running and driving this weekend... I'm dealing with a broken rear drive side door handle now... What a pain!! When I get this project done, I have to prioritize ALL the procedure to get everything finished in a week or less!! Thanks!!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, as I feared, the JB Weld did not hold... One tug on the shifter and the arm gave way at the connection... I will just weld it tomorrow night... I'll cut down the lock nut on the shifter arm down too... I have it at the min and the shifter is still not centered... Ahhhhhhhhh...... Cheers for now!! |
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Here's some ideas for you...... AE Adjustable Selector Rod DSSR - BMW $190.00 http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/n-63unu/...80.853.jpg?c=2 DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE SHORT THROW SHIFTER $ 135.00 https://media.cobbtuning.com/catalog...ry/shifter.jpg With your skills......you maybe able to fabricate something.:D |
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I was ready to set all that up today too... That stupid JB Weld had to fail right off the bat... So, I will have to wait until Tuesday morning to test fit everything... The driveshaft should be ready and I'll have the arm welded up (if it doesn't melt into a small puddle of aluminum)... I lock-tight'd the one half of the selector rod and will use the nut to lock down the other half... I can break the nut loose, pull it from the shifter and do one rotation (in or out) to adjust... I could make them all like that, but cut more from the center to have a better plus and minus from zero adjustability... I do have pictures, but since the JB Weld didn't work, I can ditch those pictures... Cheers for now!!! |
Good day all!!
Good news!! I got the drive shaft from the shop... They did a great job, but I haven’t gotten it installed yet, so I’m not positive it is the correct length yet... That would be my fault if it isn’t the correct length... I’ll have to adjust accordingly if it’s not right... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/LHyZmf.jpg I also noted that the shifter arm can move side to side a little... Getting it centered shouldn’t be too difficult... I swapped out the gold lock nuts for the wider base strut tower lock nuts... I pulled a bunch from the different BMW’s at the YPIY the last time I went... I had to get the door handle assembly... That was a huge pain to install!! I’m just saying!!! Anyway, you may also note that the shifter is pretty far forward of center... I don’t think this will cause any issues... But only time will tell... I had to omit some pictures here... They ended up being WAY too big... This is what I had the other day for the shifter arm... This is prior to JB Weld... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/lZ6CZM.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/trYCSQ.jpg And the angle I’m going with... The 540i trans is longer than the 3.0L version, so the connections are a lot closer to the huge opening for the shifter stuff... So, I can make this almost straight if I need to... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/IT9DuZ.jpg Well, I said I wasn’t going to include this, but I may as well show yous all what DIDN’T work... I did have high hopes this would hold a lot longer than it did... I did let it cure over night before I did anything with it... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/HV3LOo.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/9A1eIv.jpg I hate to say it, but I think I will hold off on showing the really crappy job I did with the roll pins!! I got it to work, but I MUST find a better way!! The arm is tight and solid, but I drilled far too many holes in my attempts to get it right!! I’ll fine tune this!! I pulled the rubber bushings out figuring I might have to tack weld the arm... I didn’t need to do that, so I’ll just install the bushings tomorrow morning and throw everything together!! Now, everyone needs to have all their fingers crossed that the drive shaft is perfect, down to the millimeter so I don’t have to shim the guibo like I do for the front on un-modified X5’s... That’s it for tonight... See yous all again in the morning when I have an update on the assembly!! Cheers!!! |
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Add stiffening plates to reinforce and it should work ! |
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Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
I think I missed it by thaaaaaaaat much!! There are two lessons to make note of here!!! One is to measure twice (or six times in my case for the drive shaft) and cut once!!! If being one and a half millimeters off from perfect is close enough, I am close enough!!! The other important lesson here is to be PATIENT and wait for the parts to get installed, then mod the others!! I aligned the trans and center support bearing for the drive shaft, like I had planned, but now the shifter arm is too short... Because I didn’t WAIT for the drive shaft to get finished... I ALMOST need to buy another shifter arm and start over with it... I might be able to add some aluminum stock I have at work and weld it, but......... Okay, pictures... Here is the drive shaft with the trans resting on my cross member support... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/LMtoIJ.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/Hj7z00.jpg Look how tweaked this is!! Not what I was looking for!! Kinda discouraged at this point, but things get better!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/q99kOy.jpg And the huge gap at the top (I only tightened the bolts for the drive shaft... the trans bolts are free to move as I spin the drive shaft)... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/2AYsYo.jpg Lowering the trans without the mounts installed... This is also why I didn’t gusset the last part of the cross member... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/Q3X44U.jpg And a little more... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/8Jqeme.jpg And the final even measurement... TOP... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/BcKCKL.jpg BOTTOM... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/SbRlAb.jpg This is a little close, but....... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/X5Hyre.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/bE3Q1b.jpg Okay, don’t make fun of my hack job pinning the shifter arm!! Please... I don’t think this would last long either... It is amazing how much stress is exerted on this arm... This is third gear... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/tGkZe8.jpg And this is fourth... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/JUmCOe.jpg The next three are my selector rod adjustments... This one is closed up as far as it will go and still be aligned... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/LHir2A.jpg This is ONE revolution out... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/uC6SDW.jpg And one more revolution... Hardly noticeable... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/L2mIGC.jpg And the fun part!! Kinda!! This is my son’s old shifter... This would be considered a short throw by comparison to the stock 3.0L X5 version... So, while it doesn’t have the crazy bend the stock X5 has, it doesn’t move as much either... Has anyone bent the shifter without destroying the isolation rubber?! I might try that!! This is third gear... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/QqwgWr.jpg And Neutral... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/uxMvXt.jpg And fourth gear... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/9PMvMO.jpg Well, that is all I have for now... I get to go back to the drawing board for the shifter arm... I think I can weld up the selector rod at the third rotation out... But, it might be better if I wait till the arm is done before welding up the rod... So, what do you guys and gals think?? Almost there!!! I’m looking into getting a POWER SUPPLY to do my coding... A bit of research indicated that a basic “charger” won’t cut it... Hence the reason I haven't coded anything yet... I’m looking at getting an IOTA DLS-75... It is a bit cheaper than the alternative... Some crazy German unit costing nearly $470... The IOTA is about $150 or so... Cheers for now!!!! |
It looks like you're really closing in on the finish line. Can't wait to see the results of all your efforts!
It may be too early to ask, but do you have a ballpark idea of the cost to do this conversion? I did the paddle shift mod to my 4.6 a couple years ago and it's a slightly better driving experience, but isn't in the same league as three pedals and a shifter. I'm really hoping this is something that will be doable for me. |
Nice! Glad to see you are making progress. I'd wait on fully welding up the selector until the arm is in place.
As for what to do with the arm, I'd either fab a new one out of steel (if you can) or just gusset and plate the current one. |
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I will get a total today or tomorrow... I don't really think I have that much more to purchase as far as parts are concerned... As far as coding and programming goes.... I think most will need to get a friend to take care of that for them or purchase the hardware and such to do it themselves... Getting the stuff to do it yourself won't be a waste since you could help out your friends and also tweak all your BMW's as you like and not pay dealer costs to do it... Quote:
I took a long look at the arm I've been working with and I am about ready to give up on it... So, that leaves me with a few choices... So, to find the answer to the question, we need to pick apart the question itself... Why?! Why did BMW use such a crazy design for this thing?! Someone did not think this thru very well!! The angle alone is murder on the parts... The design of the pivot housing is counter-productive... It is tilted forward, which requires an aggressive bend in the shifter itself... WHY!?! Do I have to use THIS arm to make it work?! Okay, so I was thinking about going in a different direction with this (Thanks smokey for mentioning fabbing one out of steel)... It's not steel, but it is going a different route than what the BMW gurus would do... BMW uses the arm to push and pull from the transmission... This makes the shifter seem like it doesn't move inside the vehicle as much since the arm and rod both connect to the same item, the trans... My idea is to lock the arm to the vehicle using the three mounting points the automatic shifter assembly uses... I would even use the existing front bushing with my idea... It is just an idea, so don't get upset if it doesn't pan out!! I got this E36 shifting arm to use early on, but went a different route... HOWEVER, I can rotate it 180 deg and use the existing bushing support, but mount the other end securely to the rear bolt hole... Locking this in the center of the opening solves a few issues... The pivot bushing is horizontal allowing more room for the shifter to move... No welding (so far) and little modification required (so far) to get it installed... and no crazy bend in the shifter itself... The only issue I see is how to keep it from twisting... I'll get pictures of this in a few hours... I have two days to figure this out!! I would love to have everything finished prior to programming!! Oh, and someone please remind me to fill the trans with MTL before I start the X!!! Okay, cheers for now!!! |
I'm going to ask a really stupid question. You may have already answered this in an earlier post and I just missed it.
If the transmission came out of a 540, and the 540 uses the same engine as the X5, why aren't you able to use the shifter arm and selector rod from a 540? What's different between the 540 and X5 that's forcing you to fabricate these parts? Oh, and don't forget to put MTL in the transmission before you start it up! :) |
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I don't think any question is a stupid one!! Some answers are more obvious than others, but no real stupid questions... The difference is not the engine or trans, it has to do with the design of the transmission tunnel... The 540i uses a very tight clearance and the shifter is almost even with the top of the transmission... So the arm and selector rod are pretty much straight... The X5 engineers decided they were going to raise up the shifter location, in what seems like a sort of tower on the transmission tunnel... It may have something to do with the transfer case, but never the less, it is much higher than the top of the trans... So, the arms have to travel down on an angle... Hey!! Thanks!! I need to put MTL in my transmission!! :thumbup: Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!!
Here is my idea thus far... I got this to use the transmission end, not the shifter end... It might be fate or whatever you wanna call it... So, this is prior to cutting... The thing I failed to capture with these first few pictures is how deep the assembly sits when using the existing support... Lower is not a bad thing, but I fear it might be a tad too low and cause issues with the shifter boot or rubber protection cover... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/TAerjb.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/v5pKdK.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/7XAime.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/bMoaKB.jpg So, maybe not use the existing support and hard mount it to the “tower” with and eye-bolt for the front and some clamp style set-up for the back... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/4m41H3.jpg I can always lower this down some with hardware... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/XLTmOC.jpg Here I’m experimenting with just putting a bolt thru the back part and coming up thru the center rear mounting hole... I nixed this idea due to the design of the arm... Cutting thru the vertical section of the “I” beam, I would compromise nearly all the strength the arm has at that point... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/s5WTIX.jpg I could do the clamp idea still in this location... Really, I can almost turn this in any direction... I would need to trim the pointed end if I spun it 180 deg... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/dTzFON.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/fc25c7.jpg So, there you have it... This is the current idea in progress... Cheers for now!! |
Ah, I see the problem now! How is it solved on the 3.0 with the manual?
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Cheers! |
And because the 3.0 has a different engine/transmission, you can't use the stock 3.0 arm on the M62 conversion? I get it now. The devil is definitely in the details!
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Let me see if I'm tracking....
On the current design you cut the arm mount down are are just thinking of mounting it direct to the tower? If so what if you got a thick piece of aluminum or steel plate and directly mounted the arm to it. That would solve the height issue by creating a spacer and should be stout enough to support the forces be placed on the arm. Basically retain the front bushing set up and then would need to do something on the back. If you could use a bushing instead of just a bolt it should improve shift feel (I'm guessing here). OR..... Just fab your own out of a plate of steel. Determine the diameter of the shifter and make a new socket for it. Something like this silly thing I drewhttp://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pswf8sjcdl.png |
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This has taken me a little while to put together... I have tried to get the exact prices I paid for this stuff, but some of it I've had for a while... Others I got for free or part of another item... The YPIY has contributed a lot to the project... Cheap parts since I am pulling them myself... So, adjust accordingly... I guess you could just pull the ballpark prices from realoem to get a better idea of actual costs involved... And you may need to add a few for welding labor if you can't do that yourself or know someone... Clutch pedal assembly from used 540i = 25.12 Slave cylinder used = p/o clutch pedal assy Clutch pedal = p/o clutch pedal assy Clutch pedal switches = p/o clutch pedal assy Trans from used 540i = 400 Flywheel from used 540i = 50 Clutch assembly from used 540i = 50 Hydraulic line new = 57.87 Grommets and other stuff = Hydraulic hose = 2.00 Tulle = 3.49 Stopper = 0.99 Hose grommet = 6.39 Clutch pivot pin = 3.35 Pivot pin spring = 6.42 Throw out bearing new = 40.99 Pilot bearing new = 8.00 Clutch fork new = 23.42 Trans mounts new = 23.66 Cross member support bar and cross bar new = Shifter selector rod new = 46.82 Shifter hardware new = 18.00 Shifter used = donated by my son!! THANKS BUDDY!! E38/E39 drive shaft (front section) used = 27.88 E38/E39 guibo used = p/o drive shaft Shifter boot new = 57.95 Shifter foam insulation new = 18.72 Shifter rubber boot = 27.31 Shifter arm support new = 51.36 Shifter arm new = 41.01 Labor Swap pins from used 540i pedal assembly to X5 assembly. Cut cross member and weld support bar. Drive shaft shop = 168 Pull front drive components. Pull automatic and associated lines. Install transmission and associated clutch components. Cut carpet and install hydraulic line. Wiring Umm...? I add it up... Still going tho... $1159ish... Cheers!!! |
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Crazy that you mentioned both of these ideas... I was planning on going one of these routes... Great minds think alike!! Okay, so... I have three options here... Go with the original design and either get a new one and fix it up or fill in the gap with the one I have now... Go with a spacer and the newest idea... Mounting that section of arm solidly to a plate of some sort and mounting that to the "tower" using the three existing holes... Make a new socket for the pivot ball on the shifter and mount that to the tower... I like this new last idea, but the fab work on it would require most to pay a lot to get it done... Hmmmmmm.... What to do!!!! Cheers!!! |
Tough choices! Really I think if you could fab something up will be best but it will take some guess work. The only issue I see with the plate idea is rough shift feeling if you don't have any bushings in there, but easy enough to fix. I think trying to alter the OEM shift arm will lead to failure. It looks like a cast aluminum piece and I think if you chop it and reweld it may not hold up. Completely guessing here though!
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If I can mount the other arm on the tower somehow, I think that would be the most solid and work the best with all the shifter boots... And finally, the custom part will probably be the most customize-able... The one that holds up the longest, wins!! Thanks for the input on this!! Really really!!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!!
Well, I think I have figured it out... I found these... I’ll leave it at that... “Found”... I sized everything up and I knew I had to figure things out this morning when I got home... My initial thought was to have the hold down bolt facing up, but that caused clearance issues and figured I would just flip them, craw under the X to tighten down the clamp part, and then adjust inside once things were lined up... Ya may need to go a couple rounds to make sure everything is correct... So, let’s start with the initial thought... This was the idea I had when I saw how much stress was on the shifter arm at the angle it was at... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/v5pKdK.jpg Then I got these universal iron beam clamps... They are usually for hanging electrical or pipe conduit from the support beams in factories... I installed these first with one oversize nut as a spacer... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/y8lH2n.jpg Then put the fabricated E36 shifter arm in place... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/tHKs2n.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/vzoWdI.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/YuOpEQ.jpg You will note how much room there is without the arm... You may also notice I have a long bolt holding the front rod section of the E36 shifter arm... The original one was just a touch too short, and this was used temporally to hold it... I adjusted the selector rod until I got the shifter centered... BUT, I don’t have to... There isn’t that much movement, so I can adjust it forward or backwards as I need to... This is third... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/mqUnFb.jpg And Neutral... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/OBcB9L.jpg And forth... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/xCIkIf.jpg Here again... This is third... Still plenty of room to adjust back some so the shifter isn't so vertical... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/k0fKkI.jpg Neutral... ~Centered~ http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/G4vawo.jpg And forth... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/eRxQeO.jpg Now the only real issue I see with this is the stress at the two mounting points... I can feel the shifts, but there are no isolation parts... The trans is dry still (Yep, I know)... And the motor is not running... I think this won’t be as “harsh” as it feels now when everything is put back together... Even if it is... I think I can deal with it until a better idea shows itself... Thoughts?! Okay, I’m off to bed... Cheers for now!!! |
Wow, kudos. Looks like an insane amount ofvwork but should be worth the effort.
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Can you fab up some brackets and TIG it to the current arm? I do think youre on the right track though!
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Thanks!! I'll be looking into this and a few other improvements as the project continues or escalates... I had thought about making a casting of my own, based off the OEM pivot holder so OEM parts can be reused or replaced as needed and there won't be a need to purchase odd items when things wear out... I doubt the casting would wear out... Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
I have a few more updates... The bad: the spiders are taking over under the 6MT project!! The great: my son is joining me this coming weekend to get some more done... Maybe we'll be able to get it started and spinning on the jack stands... I got my power supply today... The IOTA -75... I'm also looking at getting my own "big blue" welder... I'm actually excited about that... Oh, thanks for reminding me to put MT-90 in my trans... I did that today... I also measured the drop I need on the Trans cross plate to keep the drive shaft as aligned as possible... I could just cut that section out or notch a slot in the main support so the cross plate will have top and bottom support welds... I know, a picture would help here... I'll try to get those uploaded tomorrow... Oh, there is one thing I noticed about the selecting rod... If I move the trans up or down, even just a little, the shifter moves a fairly decent amount due to the angle the selecting rod needs to be at... So, welding up the selecting rod will be pretty much the last thing I do... Wiring should be the primary item to begin with when doing this project... Pull out the stuff that is in the way and take care of the wiring... Hook up the essentials and program/code the vehicle... Then deal with installing and fabricating the rest... I think it will go infinitely faster... I'll experiment with the order on the next one... And I'll consolidate all this in one long post (or multiples in a row)... Cheers for now!!! |
Good day all!!!!
Oh my goodness... Well, I’m trying to stay calm here, but I really can’t help but be a little excited... So, this is what I have for yous... This is the power supply I am using... It works GREAT!!! The IOTA-75 hooked up to the vehicle by an old set of jumper cables... I cut the crushed clamps off and cleaned up a section of wire to hook right to the under hood connections... DO NOT connect to the battery... Something about a different of voltages measured at TML 15 and TML 30... I’m just following the advice given... Loosen the bolts and pinch the wire to have a solid connection... I hooked up a volt meter so I could keep track... PLEASE ignore the mess!! I NEED A SHOP!!! I have a dedicated 20A outlet with the dual plug version... The compressor uses this normally, but the side prong on the IOTA cord worked in this outlet... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/8OlBqu.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/k8le8C.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/cVYdTo.jpg There are a few things you MUST change to get this to code... BUT, I only did two things thus far... The last thing is to get a new ROW ZCS code... I used Zeko, but it wouldn't let me change the trans... Maybe it was due to the X5 for my year not having a manual 6-speed... Or I was just doing it wrong... We'll see if I need to do it... The first is the most obvious and easiest... Under the GM3 (I think, so much has been going on!)... Find the transmission... Change it to the manual (in German)... It says “Schrittschaltung - steptronic” for the automatic... And you need to change it to "HANDSCHALTUNG - manual"... I should have gotten a picture of the change, but I was caught up with stuff... Oh, while I was in there, I coded comfort close with the remote to "active"... And killed the headlight washer option... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/sAjiLY.jpg The other thing I did was program the DME with a manual version assembly number... If you look under realoem for the programmed DME, the part numbers are different for the manual and auto trans versions... I just used the one from my 540i... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/YPVnrl.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/qXbxVt.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/IY6fTe.jpg I will say that it failed the first couple times I tried... I reset the connections and restarted the ignition to get a clean connection to the computer... It worked after that... It is a two part process... The first part after the program button is pushed is this message you get telling you how many spots you have avail... Hit OK... You have a fast progress bar, then a long one... (The long one is where I failed soon after I took this picture... I probably moved and messed with the connection...) http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/HwVACy.jpg Part two is almost identical to part one... You have a message saying the same thing about spots avail to program (you have 14 avail on an blank module)... So, when you are done with this one, you will have 12 left... This second status bar goes quick... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/lE6P6H.jpg You should get this... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/i4GIVb.jpg I turned off the ignition for more than 30 mins after this programming... I read somewhere it is recommended... I installed my clear rear lights I got from the YPIY two days ago... Sweet upgrade and takes 4.8 minutes per side... I also need to make a note about this shifter cable... Leave it in place!! Cut it or whatever... But leave the ignition switch end in place... I didn’t cut mine... I tucked it under the heater duct... You won’t be able to turn the key to off so you can remove it... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/3OPojH.jpg And this is where it goes... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/oHi3bH.jpg Umm, and the exciting part... I haven’t tried to start it yet due to the exhaust still sitting on the ground under the X... I don’t want to scare the neighbors... But I did put the MANUAL trans in REVERSE... It did EXACTLY what it should have!!! Mirror dropped... Reverse lights came on... and PDC came on... It all really happened!! Oh, I also got a set of very decent five star wheels... I just need some tires... The 18” version... Not exactly like the 4.6is, but close... That’s all for now... Cheers all!!!! |
Swweeettt! Can't wait to see you busting out some donuts with the beast.
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THEN.... Wait for it... Wait for it... THEN I might attempt to start it... Oh, I still have to assemble the front end... The big question here is, do I get rid of the rear air set-up to lose some weight?! I got some springs from the YPIY the last time I went out... Cost me all of 22 bucks for the pair... There is another set out there if anyone is interested... I may wait until tomorrow (thrusday) to start it... Not sure how tired I will be in about 6 hours... As for the donuts... I don't think I will be doing any just yet... I don't want to stress out anything right off the bat... Maybe I'll take it to BUY donuts... Or test my luck in a dirt field... Cheers for now!! |
Ohhhhhhh... I can imagine your excitement! Fingers crossed for you, and anxiously awaiting your complete parts list and writeup.
This is sooooooo tempting to pick up a pre-LCI 4.4i X5 for some manual fun. I currently have no manual cars in my stable for the first time in a long time... and it bothers me. ;) |
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Good day everyone!!
Well, I have some good news and some bad news... Lets start with the bad as it is might very well become a legal issue... The following is a clip from the NEW "Terms" from photobucket... Types of Accounts, Pricing and Limits Visiting : There is no cost to visit the Site or to register as a Member. Free account : Each individual Member gets one free account that provides 2 GB of free storage or space available for your original photo files, or videos under 10min. The free account does not allow any image linking or 3rd party image hosting. If a free account Member exceeds their Content Limit, their account will be immediately suspended and they will need to become a “Paying Member” (defined below) in order to continue accessing their account. You can upgrade to a Plus account at any time. Ad-free Account : The Ad-free Account offers Members the ability to use the Site without seeing any third party banner advertisements when logged into your Ad-free Account (note, viewers of your images within Photobucket will see ads unless they, too, have Plus accounts and you will continue to see Photobucket offers and announcements). This account level is available for $2.49 / month, payable by the Member on a monthly recurring basis. Plus Account : The Plus Account offers several paid options that may give the Paying Member more storage, bandwidth, 3rd party image hosting, image linking and/or other services as outlined below. Once and during such period of time in which you subscribe to and pay for a Plus Account, we will consider you a "Paying Member." Please note that all Plus Account subscriptions are billed annually at the commencement of the service. Photobucket may also offer a monthly billing option for its Plus Accounts (see terms and restrictions, below). Available Plus Account Plans : Photobucket offers the following Plus Account Plans: o Plus 50 Plan: 52 GB of Storage for $59.99 / Year. The Plus 50 Plan does not allow any image linking or 3rd party image hosting. o Plus 100 Plan: 102 GB of Storage for $99.99 / Year. The Plus 100 Plan allows for unlimited image linking but does not allow 3rd party image hosting. o Plus 500 Plan: 500 GB of Storage and unlimited bandwidth for $399.99 / Year. The Plus 500 Plan allows for unlimited image linking and unlimited 3rd party image hosting. Additional Features of all Plus Accounts : When you upgrade to any Plus Account, you will also receive: So this means every picture I have ever posted on any forum site in the past ten or so years is now useless... I have never deleted or moved any of my pictures that have been posted so they will ALWAYS be avail... This includes the first mod I did and posted the results: the rebuild of the SOHC 4.0L Explorer motor... A big "THANKS!" goes out to photobucket for destroying an unthinkable number of forum write-ups!! I need a new imagine hosting site... What do yous use?? ON TO THE GOOD NEWS!!! I attempted to start the 6MT today... No clutch pushed in and turned the key... Nothing happened... That is how it should be!! Next attempt, I pushed in the clutch and reset the key... Fired right up!!! YEP!!! IT WORKS!!!! Only programmed two modules and it worked!! I have the front end disassembled in favor new suspension items... The only alert light I have is for one of my reverse lights out... I should state that I do have the DSC lights since the front end is not connected... And I had the rear tires spinning with it on jack stands... I can't wait to get it out of the garage and see if it will transfer the power to the pavement like the 540i does!!!! I'm getting even more excited about this project working better than I figured... It's not over yet, but it looks promising! Cheers for now!!! |
William... I am equally afflicted with Photobucket's new policy. I have lots of write-ups and how-to's across lots of forums as well. Same boat. I will be writing them a letter and telling them they are a horrible company... won't do any good I imagine, but I'll feel better.
Great to hear she's operating as expected!!! Can't wait for you to take her for her first jaunt. |
It may not be as elegant or user friendly as a commercial image hosting site, but I can hook you up with an FTP account on one of my web hosting servers. You can upload and link as many photos as you want, but it's more of a manual process than Photobucket. The upside is that it wouldn't cost anything. Just let me know and I'll set it up.
And GREAT NEWS about the X starting up and behaving exactly as it should. I am so ready to convert mine! |
Got screwed by photobucket too.....jerks
Anyways, awesome frickin news! Can't wait to see this beast on it's maiden voyage. |
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This is a test...
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...922/jTYcBT.jpg This is only a test... Well, this is imageshack... The fullsize version was WAY TOO big... But going to 1280x1024 is what you see above... I think that should be okay with Xoutpost admin... I'll say that photobucket went about what they did entirely the wrong way... If they told everyone they needed a little help with paying the bills, and would love for some of us to donate $25 or $50 a year, I'm sure they would have gotten a lot better response than losing nearly all of the 100 BILLION customers... Imageshack is offering a special of $18.98 a year (or something like that)... I think I might just do that... I probably would have donated $50 to photobucket if they asked... But $400 is highway robbery!! I wouldn't be surprised if all the advertisers pulled their business from photobucket... No users means no useful advertising... Someone at photobucket should be fired last week... Just sayin!!! I'll get all this updated as best as I can... I have a lot of uploading and sorting what goes where... Heck, I may just start over with this thread and ask that this one get deleted (or whatever) by admin... It is useless without pictures... I'll finish up the project and get it out for the initial test drive... I'll have my better half do the video... I'll get that on here and then work on the complete write-up.... Cheers for now all!!! |
Good day!!
Another quick test... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/TnaNvf.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/g9xMfo.jpg Initial pictures... My goodness!! I wish my garage was that clean again!!! I don't understand how it got so cluttered!! UGH!!! I need a shop!! Cheers!!! |
Helluva a Thread, William!
I enjoy your posts, expertise and sense of humor! :thumbup: GL, mD |
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Cheers!!! |
Bored?! I check my email every morning hoping that the latest episode has been posted!
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Good day!
I got it all back together, more or less... the interior is still torn all apart, but it's able to drive... if the battery will hold up... I'm gonna see if the better half wants to take a short drive tomorrow... oh, remind me to bolt her seat in place... Um... So, the question remains! If this works flawlessly, like we all hope it should, do I keep it being the first or tear all the good bits from it to use in a better version X5? Blue with sports package and running boards? Maybe a 4.6is even... this one looks okay, but the clear coat is coming off the roof... it leaks badly from all the usual places... The stiffening plate is a lot easier to install with all the 4x4 stuff out of the way! As is the starter! Okay, that's it for now! I'll try to get the video up tomorrow! Cheers!! |
Good day all!!!
Well, I have good news and bad... Lets start with the bad again... Since I have just the basic trial plan with imageshack, I don't have video space... And even if I did, the two videos my better half took are rather large... The first one is over 564Mb and the other is 382Mb... So, I can't figure out how to get the video's on here for yous to see... I could chop them up into smaller sections, but I honestly don't know how... I work on cars... Maybe I can get my son to do that for me when he is here on the 4th... Thanks buddy!!! YOU ROCK!!! Okay, the good news!! It works... It is NOT the 540i when taking off at WOT!! It just weighs too much... Or the diff needs different gears... But it really isn't meant to be a racer!! Just a fun SAV with the manual trans... It might out accelerate the 4.6is, but I'm not sure... That thing is pretty quick, even with the automatic... I'll try to paint the picture here... I don't have any interior stuff put back in yet... No sound proofing or rubber dust seals or foam things or shifter boots... No center console or even glove box... Reverse is normal... Didn't do any reverse burnouts... The trifecta lights are on... Might need to program something again with all the sensors connected... I have a power drop out around 3300-3500 RPM's... There is still power there, but not as much as it was prior to that point... Shifts are fine... clunky... There is a slight drive line noise... But with everything open, it might just be noticed and normal... I could use it as a daily driver... I might need to open up the exhaust a little... Maybe that might make it breathe better... And have a decent side effect of more exhaust note!! I cut the mufflers off the 540i and left it... It sounds super great with everything else stock... I might do that to this too!! Okay, where was I? Oh, test drive... Right... I don't think I could drop the clutch and break the tires free... I don't know how to explain it... Maybe I need to tune it again or try a different (newer) version of the DME program... Over all, I think it was a successful test drive... But I also think it could use some more tweaking with the power programming... And figure out why I have a power decrease at 3300 RPM's... Maybe its cause its a 2001!? I'm going to start pulling some spare items from the YPIY... Those that need modification... Trans cross member... Drive shaft parts... I have a good start on pedal assemblies... I think wiring will need to be done at the time of conversion... And done first, not last... Far easier to convert something if all the parts needed are sitting on the shelf... THIS took forever... But the following conversions SHOULD go quicker... I really need to find a really pretty sport model, with all the bells and whistles... I have a parts car (540i) sitting in the back yard just waiting to become an X5!!! So, who's next?! I work all this week for holiday shut-down... Maintenance!! Holidays are the busiest for us... The better half and I would like to take a short vacation the following week... But, I'll be busy getting parts modified and such for whomever is ready... I think I need to do a make-over to my garage... TOO much clutter lining the walls... Wasted useful space... Okay, I gotta get some sleep!!! Cheers for now all!!! |
Three words: You're My Hero!
RE: Posting the videos, 4 more words: YouTube Is Your Friend. RE: YouTube, 3 more words: YouTube is FREE. That is all. Carry on. |
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Thanks!! I was going to drive it to work tonight, but I want to get the interior back together... Maybe I'll work on that after work and take it tomorrow night... I hope the power issue works it's self out the more I drive it... It has a new program and might need to learn a little while before it really starts acting the way it should... I also may need to play with the vanos... That might be the issue as well... I have to get tires for my new rims or purchase a used set of rims/tires to replace the 6 cyl version that are currently on it... I have to get a new battery too... I think the 75A power supply over stressed the battery... It won't hold a charge, even for 30 minutes... I'll have my son look and edit the video's... I think there is too much dead air time and my better half didn't take any video of the road... It was just pointed at the radio area... I might do another, I'm not sure yet... I'll get something loaded up soon with some help! ;) Thanks!!! Cheers!!! |
Awesome progress Will! Thanks for actually getting this close to the finish line. Nothing more disappointing than following a thread with a killer idea and then the person bailing. Keep it up!
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Thanks!!! It's odd you posted this during my shut-down work week... It has been brutal at work... I need a few days off!! You all probably figured the project vehicle burst into flames or I moved to the Bahamas... I'm still going at the little things... I found a fairly decent set of 2012 X5 staggered wheels for $200... The tires are okay, but the wrong size... The rears have the OEM runflats (I think) in 255/50-19... The front have non-runflats in 255/45-19... So, it looks a little off... I'll pictures posted up soon!!! I had to pull the battery... I overcharged it while programming... The battery area had acid residue due to the individual or shop not putting the vent plug in the non-used side... the tube was in the other, but the hold down bolt and bracket got the worst of it... All cleaned up and right again... I got another shifter from my son... THANKS BUDDY!!! But oddly, it appears I am headed in the wrong direction with these... Again, I will get pictures posted asap... I'd have to pull up the part numbers, but I think they are like Z4 shifters... Long bottom end and short top end... His 5-speed 330i has an incredibly long travel to move the shifter forks inside the trans... So the bottom end on his needs to be longer in order to get the "short shift" feel... On mine, it is almost too aggressive... Which might be the reason it is so clunky right now... Just for SAG's, I installed my OEM 540i6 shifter, just to see... It was fairly easy and quiet, but the throw was over a mile long... I think I need to invest in an M3/M5 shifter... I'll do some research and post the results when/if I get a few days off!!! Well, I need to get this project done and tested by the 21st!! My better half and I will be spending a few days soaking in my mom's pool!! It's a little bit of a drive, but I think it will be fine!! The new 19's might chew up some gas mileage, but....... They are heavy!! If anyone needs something fab'd or whatever, I don't mind doing what I can since I've done it at least once already... When/if I get a few days, I'll be hitting the yards to gather parts that need modification... So, the part yous need may be on the shelf already... Okay, book is long and I need to get some sleep for........... wait for it..... wait for it..... Yep, W O R K ! ! ! Cheers for now all!! |
NEED ADVICE!!
Good day all!!
Well, I am updating my new photo hosting site with all the pictures photobucket has blanked out (thanks photobucket!! Get audited!).... So, I was going to just replace the old link with the new one... That could be a little time consuming, but it would get the whole thread back to the way it was... So anyone seeing it for the first time wouldn't be confused (not any more than we were originally)... OR.... I could add a note to the first posting stating how the, ummm "genius at photobucket" ruined the first part of the this journey, but it gets renewed on page 18 (post 178) where it was discovered the travesty photobucket decided to dump on the World... What is the consensus on this? I don't mind doing the "redo", but it might take a little time... And I will probably do it AFTER I get everything put back together and other odd things I need to get done TODAY... Anyway.... I'm going to pull my M3/M5 shifter from the 540i to see how it measures up, so to speak in the X5... The stock 540i shifter is just too short... The ones my son gave me appear to be just a tad bit too long... This is all in reference to the lower end of the pivot... I don't care about the top side right now... I did some research on the other shifters avail... The 1.8L Z3 looks like a promising candidate... Part number on that is 2511.1.434.148..... It appears to be a tad shorter on the bottom end and also a tad shorter on the top side too... Better of both worlds... I'll order one, along with the clip that seems to be hiding in my garage somewhere, if I don't like the M3 version I have in the 540i... Okay, off to upload more pictures and get this day going... Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!!
Here you go!!! All back together and on the road... Still have a slight stumble at various RPM's... May just need a tune-up... I didn't do much to the motor except fix a few odd issues that bothered me... I need to change the oil and replace the coolant reservoir... The level plunger indicator broke due to corrosion of some sort... It probably needs plugs and some coils... I'll get those done after I get the 4.6is back together... Coolant leak at the alternator gasket due to a broken housing at the gasket edge... I swapped in a new power steering pump too... The original one was closing off at the higher RPM's and locking down all power to the rack... My better half did a great job of not taking it over a curb, but upset a few people behind her when she had to slow down rapidly until the steering came back... I had that happen on my 98 540i more than a few years ago and a PS pump replacement fixed it... Anyways, here are today's pictures... I'll be setting up a youtube account soon... I want to get a few more videos to add... Some inside while driving... Some outside... Slow starts, fast starts... Yada yada yada... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...923/ZkOwSa.jpg Yep, I need to detail it!! Not bad considering it has been in my garage for a good while now... I love the new rims despite the odd tire sizes... Enjoy!! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...922/MhCx1B.jpg Figured the good stuff was on the inside, so I added a few more pictures... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...923/3g90xP.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/0v6jJZ.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/gU7BjY.jpg I'll get more as time goes on... Do I have to drive it for a month or so before I can be considered for the Manual Trans Registry!? LOL!! Cheers all!!! |
I'm loving the 3 pedals in a V8 X5. Well done, good sir!!
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Now the question is, do I convert the 4.6is!?! I'm also considering trying out my luck on converting the 2004... IF I can find the 545i 6-speed manual trans and parts... Thanks!! Cheers!! |
Outstanding job
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I'll be self-serving and suggest that you do the 4.6 next so you'll have it all figured out for mine.
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