I did not want to be a naysayer, but I'm not surprised the step drill did not work. I think those things are primarily intended for drilling clean holes in sheet metal.

Similarly, a reamer is typically used to take off a few thousandths (or less) (of an inch) to make a hole's dimensions to a very tight spec. They're not typically intended for hogging out clearance holes. So I have my doubts on the reamers too.

But this "super drill" - WOW. A little googling led me to:
PracTool | Super Drill

and the full size youtube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-jQXtJMv6Q


It's like an inverted lathe.

I used to do some machining back in the day, both for machining research and for building the machine prototypes to do the research, and this super drill is a much more professional way to do it. The only challenge I can see that this superdrill would have would be the relative hardness of the CV joint tool you're trying to cut vs. the cutting tip on this tool (should be carbide, but I did not see that mentioned).

That is really an awesome invention. Thanks for posting that. Learning stuff like that is the main reason I read these forums. :thumbup:

Yes, I was pretty sure the step drill wasn't going to work either. The super drill has a fairly high grade carbide insert and the tool doesn't seam that hard, easily filed. :) I bought the super drill many years ago at a farm show because I was really impressed with the idea. I haven't used it that often but it sure comes to the rescue when I do! ;)

wishing I hadn't just sold my drill press I hadn't used in years. Any ideas?

I want to replace a boot soon. I'm planning to make some type of fork to pull it off.

I'm actually thinking of taking a piece of 1/2" plate, drilling a 27mm hole in the center and a couple 3/4" holes a couple inches offset from center each way.

Fabricate another piece from similar stock but with a hole the diameter of the driveshaft. Cut that piece in half at an angle so I can use some 3/8 bolts to re-attach around the shaft and grab it tight.

Then a pair of 3/4 threaded rods some washers and 4 nuts to spread the plates apart.

The same tool could be used to compress it back together..

I was just planning on using my 1/2" 18v Makita on lowest gear. My small drill press is too fast. How did you make out with the die grinder?

My new bits haven't arrived yet. I'll be on it as soon as they do.

DIY: CV Joint Removal Tool anyone?
 

I talked to my brother today he's going to build the x5 specific CV pull apart tool for doing boot replacement.

His shop has EDM so can cut 90° corners in steel so we will have the center hole for the shaft split where a couple 3/8 bolts can clamp it together tightly.

A pair of threaded rods will provide push and pull capacity to pull apart and press together.

I'll post the design for others to copy. The most difficult part will be drilling 1 1/16" hole for the hub side.

It would be a reasonably small kit to mail so pass around very possible.

I was thinking of making the design with just one rod from one side but as the simplicity of the design started to come to fruition I decided better to keep the forces balanced.

I haven't measured anything yet to figure out what sizes are needed. I'm going to try to use locally available threaded rod so it's easy to reproduce. it probably can work with 1/2" rod for sure 5/8. Not sure if can get 3/4 locally.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...67c4f6ac93.jpg

I revised the design to the bottom style it will be a little easier to handle though thinking it though might not be as strong so the original middle design.

If you just want to replace the boot (vs. removing the complete outer joint), I don't know why you would need any sort of tool like this.

I changed the boots on my right front axle without even touching the axle nut or brakes, etc. The outer part of the outer CV joint stayed exactly where it was the whole time. When I did that job, I already had this special tool in hand, ready to use, and was not even able to see if it would fit - never had a need for it.

Specifically, I had a failed outer boot. I kind of followed the famous "30 minute CV boot" thread on this forum (link below). By far, the most difficult part of the whole job was trying to understand what the thread was trying to say - until wpoll and cn90 came to the rescue.

So I separated at the inner joint / tripod. Then when trying to get the tripod off the axle (outer end still fully attached), expecting the outer joint to not let loose so easily, I gently used a slide hammer rather than a puller to pull it off. Well, the outer joint easily separated, so I continued the work with the axle fully removed from the car. But the outer joint very easily separated - it is held only by a c-ring in a square channel that pops out relatively easily.

What happened in my case is described below.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ml#post1135021

I thought all the discussion here about this tool was if you wanted to carefully separate the outer joint, after you've removed it from the hub/spindle/carrier.

Got my bit set yesterday. Got on my CV removal tool today. Took about one hour to ream it out with my die grinder. Took it from 29.5mm (the true dimension, not 30mm) to approx. 34.5 mm. That should be wide enough to clear the splined part of the half shaft. We'll see tomorrow.

I posted that you can hit the CV joint with a brass drift and a BFH and the CV joint will pop loose from the axle.

https://xoutpost.com/1108115-post18.html

Next time I'll use my 10# slide hammer instead.