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  #371  
Old 02-12-2018, 08:08 AM
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I can confirm it's on it was fairly easy (1hr 20 mins all in) and I took my time to glue it. Will report back if it fails.
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New discs and pads all round
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  #372  
Old 05-26-2018, 07:48 PM
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OK, I can believe this is a valid procedure. But I've spent way more than 30 minutes just trying to read things to figure out what the specific steps are.

Is there an updated, clearly written post somewhere in these 38 pages?

The very first post is not written in the clearest English, contains multiple methods all presented together, and has several photos which I believe are not part of the recommended method. Right?

For example, photos of the brakes, the axle nut, etc. being removed. Why? It would be best to completely ignore those, right? Would be even better if they were not there, right?

I really think that reading 38 pages to fill in the blanks kind of negates the whole point of doing it in 30 minutes.

Very specifically, here is where I am stuck, trying to follow these steps from post #1:
4) remove inner and outer boot clamp, hold rotor and pull outwards,
5) remove the C clip from the inner bearings (3 wheeled thing)
6) tap or pull the inner bearing off


"remove inner and outer boot clamp" - does that mean to remove the inner and outer clamps from the inner and outer boots on one axle? Or the inner and outer clamps on the one torn boot? 4 clamps or 2?

"hold rotor and pull outwards" - pull outwards until ??? how far ???

"remove the C clip from the inner bearings (3 wheeled thing)" - on my first reading of this and starting to take things apart, I got to this point, having only removed the outer boot, and see no C clip on the outer CV joint.

So I'm thinking now that step 4) meant to remove 4 clamps from both inner and outer boots on the same side. And 5) "inner bearings" refers to the inner CV joint.

So then "6) tap or pull the inner bearing off" probably refers to the inner CV joint.

That's what I'm guessing, and I'll go out again and try to continue using my best guesses for these things.
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  #373  
Old 05-26-2018, 10:10 PM
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oldskewel,

- The CONVENTIONAL method is to undo the 36-mm nut, press the axle inward and remove the axle (after removing either the nut at the ball joint or the control arm attachment; IMHO, the control arm attachment is easier, coming from Volvo forums).

- The ALTERNATIVE method (such as in this DIY) is the undo the INNER CV Joint Tripod. In order to do that you need to:
1. Support on jack stands (I use 2 jack stands, this is a heavy SUV!).
2. Undo the control arm bolts at subframe so the steering knuckle can be pushed OUTWARD. You may have to undo the strut bolts etc so you can push it more.
3. Undo the INNER Oetiker clamp and in the process of pushing the steering knuckle OUTWARD, the Tripod comes out.
4. Of course the brake caliper needs to be removed and tied up properly.
5. Once the INNER Tripod comes out, you can replaced BOTH Inner and Outer CV Boots.

Does that make sense?

I know b/c when I first read the Original post, it was confusing the way it was written.
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  #374  
Old 05-27-2018, 02:05 AM
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Thanks cn90 for the guidance.

Here's what I did ... (all done now)

Yes, I concluded that this "30 minute (not including reading up to 38 pages)" method involved separating the axle at the inner CV joint (I wish they had said that rather than the inner bearing, as well as removing all references to the axle nut, which they call a collar nut - once you know, it's not confusing, but before you do, it can be).

So I separated it at the inner CV joint - pulling the 3 rollers out, seeing the c-clip, removing that, and then ... to remove the 3-rollers assembly (the bearings in the inner CV joint) from the axle shaft, I tried pulling, tapping, and no progress. So I got my slide hammer, attached to the 3-rollers, not expecting to need to pull very hard, and sure enough, the axle separated at the outer CV joint's c-ring.

Not a big deal, put it all back together with two new GKN boot kits (kept in inventory, just in case - and 2 for the other side too), and all is good. They came with axle nuts (not needed), big/small clamps, c-rings, c-clips, and 2x 80g bags of grease per boot.

BTW, I notice from the maintenance records on this '01 that the inner boots look original, and the outers get replaced every 40k or so miles, so I don't mind replacing the inners at 185k+ miles. But the inner boot did look just fine. Also noticed that the GKN kit for the inner boot had a slightly larger big-end diameter - both the boot and the clamp were a little bigger than the one that came off. It still fit though.

So I did not touch the brakes or the axle nut at all. This was done on the right front wheel of an '01 3.0i, with a torn outer boot.

cn90, glad to hear that you similarly found the instructions confusing. I can understand how they got that way since this method seemed to evolve, and now from doing it, I can see that you kind of need to try something and go with the flow depending on what works or not. But a few extra words in post #1 could really do a lot to clear some things up for first time readers.

Oh yeah, and it took a lot more than 30 minutes. Good concept to avoid having to touch the axle nut just in case that would end up being problematic. So yes, I'd do this method again next time, but 30 minutes is about how long it takes me to get the car in the driveway, jacked up, tools out, etc.
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Last edited by oldskewel; 05-27-2018 at 02:14 AM.
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  #375  
Old 05-27-2018, 02:31 AM
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As I mentioned earlier in this thread (dozens of pages back!) you can get this done without touching the inner joint.

Remove the wheel.
Undo the lower control arm at chassis end only.
Remove the outer boot clamps and slide the outer boot back down the axle.
While pulling the hub outwards, seat a heavy alloy drift on the inner shoulder of the outer CV joint (right next to the axle) and smack it. Once is usually enough to pop the axle from the outer CV joint. It helps to use something to stop the axle moving outwards too, like vice-grips (tape the axle to protect it). Support the axle so as to not damage inner CV etc.
Remove the old boot from the axle.
Slide new boot over axle.
Clean and re-lube CV (the balls can even be removed for cleaning etc.)
Re-install axle back into outer CV.
Slide new boot over joint and secure with new boot clamps.
Re-install lower control arm and wheel.

This method is quick, reduces the number of items you have to pull apart but requires some technique (separating the axle from the CV). It also requires a helper and some luck!
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  #376  
Old 05-27-2018, 02:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
As I mentioned earlier in this thread (dozens of pages back!) you can get this done without touching the inner joint.

Remove the wheel.
Undo the lower control arm at chassis end only.
Remove the outer boot clamps and slide the outer boot back down the axle.
While pulling the hub outwards, seat a heavy alloy drift on the inner shoulder of the outer CV joint (right next to the axle) and smack it. Once is usually enough to pop the axle from the outer CV joint. It helps to use something to stop the axle moving outwards too, like vice-grips (tape the axle to protect it). Support the axle so as to not damage inner CV etc.
Remove the old boot from the axle.
Slide new boot over axle.
Clean and re-lube CV (the balls can even be removed for cleaning etc.)
Re-install axle back into outer CV.
Slide new boot over joint and secure with new boot clamps.
Re-install lower control arm and wheel.

This method is quick, reduces the number of items you have to pull apart but requires some technique (separating the axle from the CV). It also requires a helper and some luck!
I agree, from having done it just now, and seeing how things went, this would be the first attempt if/when I have to do it again.

The tricky thing is to hold the axle and tap the outer joint off the axle splines + c-ring. My slide hammer did that pretty easily (when I was not trying to do it), pulling from the inner end of the axle. But yes, I'd try exactly what you say as my first attempt.

And yes, not having to touch the inner boot/joint at all would be a huge benefit, since it seems the inner boots last relatively forever, vs. the outer boots.

It would have been great for me to find this before doing the job just now, but you know, buried in 38 pages of other stuff ... But now I know.
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  #377  
Old 05-27-2018, 12:17 PM
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wpoll,

- Appreciate the trick for undoing the OUTER CV Joint. But my experience in Volvo is that the OUTER has a hidden C-clip inside the OUTER CV Joint,
which can be difficult to spread apart to pull the joint apart.


oldskewel,

- The INNER Tripod, no need to use slide hammer, a simple puller, even 2-prong puller, will do just fine.

- Below is the trick from Volvo S60 forum, same idea as X5 as the CV Joint is made by the same GKN company.


---
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  #378  
Old 05-27-2018, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
wpoll,

- Appreciate the trick for undoing the OUTER CV Joint. But my experience in Volvo is that the OUTER has a hidden C-clip inside the OUTER CV Joint,
which can be difficult to spread apart to pull the joint apart.


oldskewel,

- The INNER Tripod, no need to use slide hammer, a simple puller, even 2-prong puller, will do just fine.
---
On the outer joint, yes, it has what I would call a c-ring in the splined shaft. It has a circular cross section, is pretty much circular in shape, is a little bigger than the shaft diameter, and sits in a rectangular circumferential groove in the splined shaft.

So to put the splined axle shaft back in to the outer joint, you need to press the ring so it sits in the groove and can be inserted. Rotating the wheel to get it around the circumference is the trick to get it back in. To get it out, I think it relies more on force and luck, which yes, makes it not the sort of thing you want to have on your only solution path. Similar to insertion, I expect that rotating the wheel while pulling might help it settle into the groove.

When I used the slide hammer on the inner end, I knew it was overkill and did not expect to need to pull very hard. But that inner 3-wheel thing was really stuck on there as it turns out, and the c-ring holding the outer end in place popped right out.

Yes, next time, I would get a simple puller on the inner end (not sure if I have one of these that would work right now). But still, seeing how easily the outer end popped out for me, I'd at least try that. This is mainly guided by the fact that the inner boots last forever, and the outer ones last about as long as tires do. So if the inner one can be left completely untouched, I think that would be my first approach.
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  #379  
Old 06-12-2018, 09:40 AM
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Well, I thought I would report back, its been a few months and the Outer CV boot needed cleaning up and inspected (as I feared the worst from using a 'Sticky boot') and after a good clean up, I am happy to report, Sticky Boots are really quite handy if you are careful to install. I will be using them again as they don't require any disassembly other than a wheel removed and if I had a ramp, then I would even question whether I needed to do that.

I will say that I have tried other boots before, and every 12 months, something happened, to either of the sides, splitting, clip loose and slicing the boot etc. I will buy another Balicast one and have it in stock for when I need to do this again. It's also simpler for the not so mechanically minded.

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BMW X5 E53 3.0 Diesel Sport | Sapphire Black Dakota Beige Leather interior | Year 2004

What I had updated
Carbon Effect Steering Wheel
Panoramic Sunroof Fix
PVC Replacement
All glowplugs and glowplug regulator
New discs and pads all round
All new front suspension links, bushes and rods
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  #380  
Old 12-25-2018, 11:50 PM
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Itís that time again

Found out my cv boots leaked right before heading out of town. The last set of boots lasted 5 years, was replaced by the dealership. Iím reading this thread, I know it will take more than 30 mins. Now, Iím contemplating wether to try the slid boot or not. I need to replace the brake rotors and pads too.
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