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One last thing before taking it in check out this post on why an oil burner didn't start.
https://xoutpost.com/1063249-post6.html If that fixes the problem you owe me a pint Mate. |
BMWs are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. Because of that it if far more important to have the proper testing equipment. I use a Innova 3320 multimeter, a solar BA9 battery tester and a CTEK 7002 battery charger. Saves so much time getting to the core issue(s). I think these or something similar are vital DIY Tools to have.
If there was no error light right after the tires were replaced and they are the same size as the previous tires the tires are not likely the problem A TPS sensor could have been damaged when the tires were replaced. That could be a separate issue but it could be a part of the core problem symptoms. A load test does not always eliminate a bad battery. In the vast majority of cases it does but not always. If only because of the name it seems logical to assume Battery World has a battery tester that tests all aspects of a battery, beyond just a load test. I have used a tester to confirm a battery was bad and the store said it was not. Hard for me to follow but it seems like you have had more than one battery that was good in place and the problem persisted. Sounds like battery is not the problem. A parasitic drain will not cause a starting problem unless it has already drained the battery to the point the engine won't crank. If that is the case the interior lights would be out or go out when you try to start the engine. I test for parasitic drain at the battery, I have the hatch open, top and bottom, I connect the multimeter to measure draw, check it again in an hour and periodically for eight hours. Yes, I am waiting longer to start testing and testing over a longer period of time, that's intentional. Electrical gremlins can be very elusive. As mentioned a few times before, your symptoms are classic symptoms of a bad ignition switch. All kinds of strange warning lights can come on and strange things can happen. A failing ignition switch can be intermittent and is progressive. It can make the dash an error light show, cause the radio to do weird stuff, cause the steering wheel to adjust on it's own etc. The switch works with metal contacts. When the key is turned it turns a plastic cylinder with bumps on it that push one or more contacts down depending on the key position. The plastic bumps wear down to the point they close sometimes and later don't close at all. Not cranking at all, or cranking but not starting can happen when ignition switch is dying. Some of your symptoms don't seem connected to a bad ignition switch, potentially a separate problem but I would focus on the ignition switch. I don't know how to test the switch. I removed one and opened it up to see if it was fixable, In my opinion it is not. Since the symptoms are confusing but are a part of the list that indicate a bad switch, the cost is reasonable and based on the milage on most X5s here, I purchase a new one |
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I had many of the same symptoms including the transmission failsafe. I got many of the symptoms before realizing my alternator brushes and slip rings were shot, and the trans. failsafe actually happened AFTER replacing the refurbished ALT, I apparently only hand-tightened the nut that holds the alternator power cord and when it fell off (the nut) of course I got terrible voltage/current delivery and led to the trans-failsafe.
I replaced the 8mm nut (eventually months later i found the original on top of the underbelly plate) and after a start or three any dash lights reset themselves. As mentioned above 'very sensitive to voltage fluctuations'. If you ever had the abs/brake trifecta come on as you came to a stop light, almost a guarantee it's the alternator. A rebuild kit with slip rings and brushes is about $20, takes an hour or so. The voltage regulator is between $40 and $90 depending which model of alternator you have. Use the hidden menu to monitor voltage (or I use an app on my phone; dash command); if the voltage ever dips below 13v, and especially as you drop RPM such as coming to a stop, also if the abs trifecta came on with no obvious cause and maybe reset itself once in a while but stays on almost always, again, all points to voltage fluctuations. These can be caused by the ignition switch apparently, but if you are working on an original alternator, odds-on favorite culprit having just refurbished mine after getting very similar symptoms that were cured by only repairing the alternator nothing else. |
One other consideration; from a recent thread here; somebody with intermittent start problems; it worked out to be a faulty key; the immobilization circuitry probably had a bad solder joint so sometimes it was working sometimes it wasn't. Now i don't think the car will crank with the immobilization circuit non operational but i would definitely try your other key, especially right after you get a non-start situation. if you can start up first try with the other key, good chance the key's immobilization circuit is not talking to the car.
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I agree with wpoll and bcredliner that the ignition switch needs to be investigated.
All sorts of weird electrical problems can occur with a failing switch. Check out this YouTube video for an example of an amazing panoply of issues resulting from a bad ignition switch. The above shows that replacement of the switch is pretty easy. Another video link is here. And if you don't want to spend the money on the switch (or if you want to do an "autopsy" on the old switch to look for failure points), be sure to check out this video on refurbishing the old switch. And if it turns out it is the ignition switch, (with apologies to upallnight) you owe wpoll a pint! Good luck. |
Thanks Guys
Back home soon Really appreciate the advice |
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