Fun. I guess Ill send it off to RevMax for $599 in Charlotte, NC. Nearing having a shop lined up to pull it out. Spent part of the afternoon defunking the underside and under the hood.

The 5hp may be cheaper to do.
I have a 6hp with the A051 plate. Apparently they're becoming rare. Most places are only rebuilding them now rather than outright selling rebuild units.

Why are you paying a shop to drop it. So it yourself. It takes maybe 30mins.
Drain fluids. Drop the pan.
Pull the mechatronic locking tab. Turn mechatronic sleeve to unlock/unscrew electronic plug. Remove plug.
Unscrew valve body bolts and lower valve body. Let it all drain. Dry off. Remove TCM carefully. Pack in about 3 bag. Package and mail off.


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Im rounding up a shop to drop the transmission, once that's drained and out I can remove the valve body & torque converter for reconditioning. :)

Unless you are sure what the problem is, since a transmission shop is pulling the transmission, I would have them do a diagnosis before they pull it and you start buying parts.

Ahh. Ok. Gonna have the whole thing rebuilt?
You may not need it tho. The transmission itself is pretty solid.
From talking to many rebuilders, the impression I get is worn valvebody cylinders and half dead solenoids cause most of the issues.


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If the mileage is high it may be worth getting a Sonnax main pressure valve fitted. Worth doing a vacuum test first, but I find that I need to replace quite a few.

https://i260.photobucket.com/albums/...psxufwapw1.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psmo3xzxoj.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psmzp78qhp.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54gBRA_yMnM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jm_M4hk1YHI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZH3BkKlNfM

https://i260.photobucket.com/albums/...psan6nyfsd.jpg

Unlike the 6-speeds, the solenoids on the 5HP24 are generally very reliable

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psz8iwuz4o.jpg

Based on your symptoms, it’s also worth checking that your upper valve block doesn’t have a crack in the SV-1/KV-F circuit

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psimulit1d.jpg

https://i260.photobucket.com/albums/...psxi9gulc1.jpg

Phil

Wow, thanks Phil. That's a ton of information.

The X5 has 107k miles on it. It shifts perfect until it
gets warm and then loses it's mind. Upper gears seem fine, so
when I drive it (hardly never until this is fixed) I start in M-3 and
drive easy until up to speed and shift into M4 & M5.

Im not a transmission expert by any stretch, but appreciate the insight
and knowledge you've shared.

Here's the shop that's rebuilt a VB for me in the past.
https://revmaxconverters.com/product...ed-valve-body/

A gentleman about 90 miles away will rebuild the transmission for $900
& a shop in Chicago is charging $250 to reman the L51. VB another $600.

I'd considered a flush, but would rather just rebuild it instead of some now and some later. One shot and check all the boxes is what Im after.

What fluid is recommended?

Only ever use either ZF Lifeguard Fluid 5, Pentosin ATF 1 or Mobil ATF LT71141 in your 5HP24. This guarantees that you have the right friction modifier pack to ensure that the torque converter lock-up clutch functions correctly in its ‘controlled slip’ mode

https://i260.photobucket.com/albums/...psqg4wxpz0.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ficientLUC.jpg

Phil

Had a similar issue, cant recall the codes, but the solution was simply replacing the harness in the transmission. Something about a thermostat/temp sensor that failed. Maybe you will get as lucky, but after a new filter, fluid, and the harness, all was great

What made you decide to replace the harness? Codes? Hmm.