I know it's been a few years, but I was really hoping to hear some resolution to this problem.


As I've recently experienced a similar issue where my 2001 X5 4.4L simply goes into "neutral" after sitting for a while in drive. The dash readout says "D", but the engine revs without the car moving. Moving the gear shift "fixes" it, and it drives fine.

Mine was the same and it was (in order of problems) mechatronic gearshift, transmission valve body mechatronics.

I'll see if I can find my posts and link them into this thread.

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Have you had the fluid level checked?

Found it....

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

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I just replaced the fluid and filter a few months ago, and I haven't seen any leaks. So I'm guessing it's fine. But, obviously, I'll check it before I dig into the transmission.



But it wasn't having any issues before the change.


And before anyone asks, I used the Pentosin ATF1

Thanks for coming to my rescue! So, I don't have any warning lights. Like NONE.. I know that's funny for a BMW. But I'm curious what you're symptoms were like. Mine is fine, unless I sit with my foot on the brake, in drive, for at least several minutes. Then I'll notice a subtle rpm change, and it no longer "creeps".. it seems like it's in neutral. Engine revs, but no movement. I didn't try revving it for a long time, or at higher rpm as I didn't think it'd be helpful to burn a clutch, or have it slam into gear. But moving the gear selector popped it back into gear and it's fine after that.


Was yours similar?


Could you elaborate on "Installed new magnetic switch in the valve body and did mechatronics adjustment, plus code reset"


part # for magnetic switch?

I thought "mechatronics" was another name for the valve body? Is there an adjustment in there?

I have a customer car that doesn't love the exact position of the gear shift. It acted in neutral when the handle read R. Moving from P to N back to R with gusto fixed it. I haven't had it happen again but it "felt like" a linkage problem where the L1-4 switch engaged R but the mechanical innards not so much.

On the shifter problems it was the mechatronic switch 1st (switch not replaceable) then the interlock cable (fixed with new shifter) on the transmission it was the magnetic switch on the valve body mechatronics (replaced with yard part) I then decided to drive the hell out of it since it was acting like new (didn't last) I ended up killing my B clutch, which is apparently uncommon as most people kill their E clutch.

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Ahh OK thanks for the clarification!


Appreciate the advise. Like anyone else, I'm hoping I don't have to tear into my transmission.