Not even that - I'm pretty certain the TPS is baselined each time the key is turned on (when the DME is booted). I don't think anything about the TPS position is stored from one igntion cycle to the next.

Incorrect. I once reset adaptation on a buddy’s x5 and it ran like absolute shit until he did the TPS reset. There is something wonky with his x5 from having a replacement engine but twice when his adaptations were reset the car ran like absolute crap until the method describe above was performed.

I tried the program thing and NOTHING. Same thing, I hear metal banging when I shift from forward to reverse stopped, harsh down shift, upshifts are fine. When its cold 1st to 2nd and bangs then goes away after first shift.

It shifted fine before the oil change. It must be electronic of the fluid is thinner than the old black much. Again I used all OEM stuff off the tag off the trans.

Hey CW, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised, at least I hope you will. I had the same symptoms with my 6hp26 (rough downshift and eveeeerrrrryy now and then a rough 1 to 2 up shift) and I did the pick ups and bridge seal on mine and it wasn't that the seal had "failed" visually that I could see, it was how MUCH HARDER it was than the new one the blew my mind!


Anyway, I did everything you're doing now and when I got it all back together (except for a broken pan bolt that I had to easy out...) it shifted really good! I then drove it for 30 days and did a simple drain and fill and now it shifts amazingly!


I'm rooting for you!! Let us know how it goes :thumbup::thumbup:

How about in sport mode, any difference? I can't offer any advice, but it may assist in isolating the fault if there is a change in shifting. Obviously not relevant when shifting to or from reverse.

Most new owners that buys or lease a BMW brand new will not keep the car beyond 60,000 miles. BMW offers their free maintenance program with a new car so if they don't have to include the ATF replacement it's just more money to BMW. Now I'm saying most, I know there are a few owners that bought their BMW brand new and are still driving it.

Is that all you did from the original post? Pan/filter/fluid change? I'm not sure which tranny is in the 2002 4.4i. 5hp24 I think? If all that was done was the above, you are probably having pressure issues. As you said the fluid is thin, the ZF stuff is very thin. If you did not replace the valve body seals at the minimum, it's probably not holding pressure.

Now, what you can try... and I have not done this personally, so I am just passing on info. Try using the Valvoline multi vehicle ATF. It is thicker and I know of a YouTuber (I know, I know) who only recommends that if just doing a pan and fluid change. It is thicker and will help with the old seals. I was going to use this, but the trans service kit I got came with Liqui Moly so I'll be using that instead. The YouTuber in question (Nathan's BMW Workshop) seems very knowledgeable, but it is just that, advice. He said it's brought back almost every trans he's put it in from rough shifts and other behavior. It's a cheap thing to try at any rate... :dunno:

This is the stuff:

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/857...2&odnBg=ffffff

Thanks, I'm hoping so. As is typical with this vehicle, once I got down there I found it needed a whole host of other things. I rescued it before it got to the crusher and it was a farm wagon in a previous life. So I got down there and found while doing the trans service that it needed exhaust gaskets, Xfer case/trans mount bushing, Xfer case fluid change, and a guibo. As a result I'm doing the CSB as well and have dropped the exhaust, trans/Xfer case cross member, and a whole bunch of other stuff so I'm waiting for parts now. Going to do the initial trans fill now (~4 liters I think) and wait to do the final fill until the rest of the car is put back together. You are right about the seals, I have pictures, they weren't cracked but they were FLAT and hard. The new ones are at least 2mm taller and much more pliable.

BTW, to anyone thinking about an E60/E61... they are the most expensive BMW's I've ever repaired. Parts are more expensive, space is limited on the Xdrive examples, and they are just in general a pain to work on. In almost a year of ownership I've put $4500 in parts on top of the $1200 purchase price. $5700 is a small price really for a VERY well sorted wagon, but it's still taken a lot of time and effort. So just a word of caution. I knew it would need more than usual being it had 181k miles on it at purchase, but it far exceeded the usual ~$2000 in catch-up maintenance/repair usually required to turn a used BMW into a good, "drive anywhere at anytime" daily vehicle. The wife and I love it though. We're certified BMW masochists. :D

Thanks..that actually makes good scene.....its totally viscosity. Yes the only thing I changed was the fluid and filter. Nothing was wrong with the trans or shifting.

THANKS SO MUCH!!!!!! Im going to try that.

I used the Valvoline MaxLife when I did three drain / add cycles back last summer and fall. So far so good. I didn't reset the adaptions. Lots of opinions on which fluid to use. Valvoline says they make the spec for my N62 4.4, but it isn't certified. It's something like a fifth of the price of the ZF fluid.

It's important to do two, or better, three cycles so that you replace most of the fluid. Most of the ATF is in the torque converter, not in the pan.

Critical (which I missed the first time): run the engine and go through the positions on the shifter after the initial fill. There's a write up on this in the docs section, I think. I also put it in Sport mode and shifted up to 3rd gear (brake on).

Just because your shop added as much as came out, that's not necessarily the correct level. Mine had lost fluid through the common problem of the mechatronic sleeve o-rings getting flattened.

Thanks!! I will.