I saw a rebuild of the bearing for the SAP once but when I replaced wife's SAP last year I triee to disassemble and didn't take the time to figure out how to remove the impellers, I think it neesesy a proper "gear puller" I opted for destructive disassembly to learn more about how it was made. (FYI; very cool design; you can see why they aren't cheap)

With the relative ease of replacing, this is definitely one of those parts I'm ok with Chinesium.

Funny timing on this secondary Air Pump problem, as my friend who just had the same problem on his e39 530i and he researched it on his face site and found out the problem is almost ALWAYS the bearing pack inside is busted and is approx a $12-15 cost for the very common bearing pack. He is in process of fixing his now. So if you have the ability to open it up and replace that single piece, then do so.

Ok nevermind, I see post 28 already mentions the rebuild :)



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Take apart and measure; also it almost surely is the same.

That looks like a good guide, I didn't read so I don't know the method they used to remove the impeller but it's fused on pretty good. I had a working replacement so I didn't need to repair the old one and wanted to see how it was made. If my second SAP fails I will likely refurbish it.

I went through the notes, then decided. Too complicated and low return... probably won't do it. Too much other crap to fix.

I made a similar decision when I found knock off at reasonable cost.

call northside imports and get a quote for the second air airpump ask for adam

wholesale parts trustme you one be disappointed

so has anyone had a problem with the SAP running with a warm engine? Because I definitely get that impression on my 4.6

Warm to you might be cold to DME. Until cats are 600° they don't work so the engine might be fairly warm and still be considered a cold start.

Put your hand on the sap you'll know if it's running out you are just hearing the aux fan etc.

I'd say after 30 minutes of driving it should be warm no?

it's wen driving that I notice it, the engine gets quite sluggish too when that happens. I do have a persistent O2 sensor fault, I'm guessing that could trigger the SAP staying activated?

Yes that will definitely be warm, but how long a wait before restarting? Also, if you have ac on the aux fan will often spin as soon as you start the car: check and see if you are just hearing the aux fan. SAP is pretty quiet before the bearing goes to hell but it shuts off at a programmed time of 90-100 seconds gives you plenty of time to go out open the hood and put your hand on to confirm operation