EWS doesn't stop the engine rotating just stops spark and/or fuel. You have fuel on plugs so I'm guessing spark (even more stupid) that's why people spend a lot of time solving EWS because it should not crank but does.

I suspect a limitation with the phone m scanning software. Even with bimmerlink and bimmercode I most certainly need to use foxwell. That said good thing you didn't get the 630 because the software you have is better!

Foxwell nt510/20/30 or nt710 are the models that do bidirectional scanning and can correct and diagnose EWS.

EWS steps I use.
 

Good to know about the lacquer thinner. I have an entire can of that where I've hardly used any. Used it when cleaning the block and the heads.

There are 3 pins going to the coil, in a triangle with the single point at the top. Which is the 12v pin? I can figure it out but knowing is easier.

Steps for EWS delete (Immobilizer Bypass) I did are from MS4X.net. https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title...bilizer_Bypass

- Using RT TunerPro, edit the bin with their community patch list.
- Go to EWS, apply 3 patches.
- Save bin as a new file.
- Boot up ECU on my bench setup in boot mode by holding in a button switch that grounds one of the pins through a 10k resistor. I can always tell when the ECU comes up in boot mode because ms43flasher won't recognize the ECU and I have to
- establish communications with Renlovo ByteLogger first,
- read the ECU id,
- then go back to MS43flasher and flash the 512k bin file. It says it is writing the boot loader, then the program section, then the data.
- Once done, I power off the ECU and turn it back on without going into boot mode, and
- do a 512k read of the ECU with MS43flasher.
- I then take that file, open it in RT TunerPro and
examine the EWS settings to ensure this new bin file I just read says it has the patches installed.
- Next, I go to the car, disconnect the negative first, then positive cable, install the ECU in it's cramped little home, then plug the battery back in reverse order.
- After that, key in the ignition and see what happens.

Knowing that this engine floods easily, I don't crank back to back, or if I am, I do the full accelerator down for 10 seconds then release to clear the flood condition before I turn the key.

"compression was 125 - 170 PSI. Before I tore the engine down, it was 175-195 PSI"
My first two thoughts were EWS and compression. I'm back to compression.

I didn't want to take time to learn BMW coding when troubleshooting EWS and a parasitic amp draw. I went to these guys: https://racehuggins.com/product/ms43...ilizer-delete/
I bought a DME and did the EWS fuse mod. It was reversible since the OEM DME was untouched.

How many cylinders are low compression? Are they next to each other?

low compression
 

I consider all but cylinder 1 low, and even that one is 20 PSI lower than it was last fall. Cylinder 1 was 170 and they went downhill from there. I've been assuming lower compression was from cylinder wall wetting, but it may be the valves which I already knew don't seal completely--leak down test is bad.

cyl 1: 170
cyl 2: 145
cyl 3: 130
cyl 4: 150
cyl 5: 125
cyl 6: 135

I'm considering yanking the engine again, pulling the heads and trying to solve the leaking valves--which is on every cylinder. Over the winter, I got new exhaust valves, lapped and installed them, as well as lapping the intake valves too.

:dunno:

What do you think of the Foxwell nt624 elite? I really like the NT710, but this is $100 less. Knowing myself, I'll probably spring for the NT710 anyway. It appears it can do what the BMW software does, but it appears that it will be easier.

EWS fuse mod?
 

The Huggins Racing site offering does the same exact EWS delete in the ECU that I did, plus they need another ECU to work with. I've done a lot with BMW ECU configuration, so it wasn't difficult. The Foxwell NT710 looks interesting to make that easier though.

What is the EWS fuse mod? I didn't find anything useful in Google searching except ordering EWS kits.

I'm going to try to find INPA EWS sync and see if that works where the MS53 flasher version didn't. I'm still leaning towards compression due to valves at the moment, but I'd love to be shown wrong because that is a lot of work to do on a guess.

Heater valves
 

Right as in standing in front of the car, looking at engine bay on a US car. I assumed they were just heater valves, but have no idea why they're so hot when the engine is not running. There is only coolant flowing while it's cranking. The hoses on either side were 87F degrees.

The heater control valves are energized to turn "Off" and the coils are going to get warm so maybe you have the A/C on. Left and right are always as you are sitting in the car btw.

The 6xx aren't useful. Not bidirectional. The 5xx are far more useful.

The 7xx well worth the extra coin for one major reason: WiFi and self-updating.

I got the 7xx out of necessity when wife bought F10 and the 510 won't access necessary modules.

Did you remove the EWS module? After removing the module, install a 30 amp fuse in the connector. I trimmed a fuse to fit nice and snug. The X5 had no problem cranking up.

A Foxwell Pro520 works well. Slow but it does get the job done. With it, I was able to find and clear all kinds of codes. The bidirectional function helps too.