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like i always said: "if you don't go get new tools, it ain't a diy session ;)" LOL you'll have it done in no time after that.... btw.. diy is done. jeff is gonna get it posted in the articles section soon. |
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Did you have everything else unbolted from the axle support frame? If you didn't, that will make it a little harder to pop off the carrier assembly. Mine wasn't too hard to take off but it did require a lil time and effort. I used a 3 jaw puller and a long a$$ breaker bar to get the job done. http://album1.snapandshare.com/8701/45976/820236.jpg http://album1.snapandshare.com/8701/45976/820237.jpg http://album1.snapandshare.com/8701/45976/820238.jpg |
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Ok I have taken a shower and pressed in the new support arm bushing which was broken, that was the entire reason I need to get in there, the boots are cracked but not broken yet. The new puller was a craftsman so I’ll swing by and get another one tomorrow and try again.
It went like this... When I could not find my breaker bar I switch to air on the pullers which was not wise, but I was all set up so I pulled the trigger till I had 450 foot pounds and I was not moving an millimeter. I cranked the gun to 700 and lost my old reliable puller and switched to the smaller craftsman that snapped an ear when I was about half way that pressure. Interesting the new control arms are different, they have a metal sleeve now, I have never seen that before. Anyway, I only took a couple pics, one of the new control arm and one of pressing the new bushing in. |
Update, new puller and still no luck getting the thing to break free. If I go any harder it will break again, only 5 ton rated. Gonna have to go to my freinds shop and use a more agressive hydralic puller. I think I know why It's so hard. I live less than a 1/4 mile from the beach and beautiful pacific ocean. My cars NEVER stay outside due to the heavy fog and high salt content in the air (stainless steel will start to rust in days). Anyway my cars did have to live outside for 8 months wheh my house was getting remodled, I think maybe the shaft and the hub are on there with some help of rust. Really disapointed I have to do this again.
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while i thought i was stuck in my progress about not having that special bmw hub tool, my car was up on the lift for at least 24 hours. i had blasted the hub area with lots of wd40 in preparation of trying to pull it (so it soaked for a long time). I only had to use a standard 24" break bar to start it, then switched to a standard 1/2" rachet with not much effort... although your high salt and water content in your area does make it more challenging, perhaps a good soak in some penetrating oil will help? i'm sure that hydraulic puller will work in the end tho... good luck |
It will get done, next week probably, only been beaten once before and that was a rear wheel bearing that the race was welded into the trailing arm.
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I just got my car back from Stealer. Here are some pics that I took after I got the cv boot fixed, it seems like I got the whole half Shaft replaced with new one. Attached pictures with different angles and I hope it will help any of us who have done this job before and figure out how dealer fix this problem with in 2 hrs without removed too much nuts and bolts. Because the old grease still there before and after it's done.
Total charge from dealer before deductible was 667 Half Shaft $487.00 Labor $189.00 Nut $11.00 I paid from my pocket was 118.00 included the nuts because the warranty does not cover any nuts and bolts. I hope these pics helps. |
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