With all the necessary tools, removing the swivel bearing is not a difficult job. It does help in clearing up an open work space and makes cleaning up the mess easier if the boot threw grease everywhere. It also gives you a chance to better inspect bushing condition and do a brake service if you needed to.

There are other methods to replacing a CV boot as we all can see. Some find one way more suitable than another. The Bentley manual method would be considered the factory way to replace the boot, and differs from shortcut methods others have derived. Would it be safe to say the engineers and mechanics that wrote the procedure are fools?

I'm not saying one method is better than another, and I will say that the removal of the axle shaft from the engine side does have its conveniences if you dont have all the tools to safely remove the outboard shaft from the swivel bearing. I think rather than knock on a particular method, best to make another DIY write-up on replacing a CV boot so everyone can see the alternatives to the current write up posted in the Articles section.:thumbup:

Thanks for the tip, I'm going to tackle this job over the weekend. Autohausaz was great about sending me a replacement at no cost and is also sending me the kit for the other side which should arrive on Friday so I'm planning to do both sides. Will try to document and take notes if I get a chance.

I suspect that the garbage oem rubber combined with the tight turning circle of the X contributes to the boots failing prematurely. At full lock right or left, the boots are really stretched.

The moral of the story is to try not to turn your wheels full lock to avoid stretching the garbage oem rubber boots.

BTW, I just called the local foreign autoparts here in Raleigh, they have a brand new axle from Empi with a 1 year warranty for $122.00 plus tax.

For those of you who have already done this job, but just replaced the boots; would you say getting a replacement axle will better/faster/easier than replacing the broken boots?

I don't have an air compressor, does that mean I wouldn't be able to complete the job?

If you do your own oil change it helps to apply rubber conditioner to boots at the same time. Seems to make their life longer. They dry crack.

You absolutely better off replacing boot on OE axle given that CV joint is good (you caught it in time)

A small 3-lb. hammer or long breaker bars will help a lot when loosening some of the large nuts.

It may be faster but not necessarily easier, dealing with the 36mm wheel nut is the easy part, removing the axle without damaging the bearing is the hard part. You may not have a choice if your current axle has been contaminated for a prolonged period.

I just did both sides a couple of weeks ago since I discovered the torn boot early. Check out the pictures so that you know what you're getting into in the DIY posted here:

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...-pictures.html

The boot on the axle it's been open for about 6 months now. The X5 has been driven thru rain, snow, and slush. However, as of today, no noise is coming from the axle at all.

Do you think I should replaced the entire axle given the circuntances or a new boot will be fine?

On a parking lot drive in reverse with wheel lock to lock left and right and see if there any sounds. If not - just replace boot.

You will need to take it apart completely and clean all so it's sterile.

This thing is getting more complicated by the day...

I might just take it to a shop to have the axle replaced, and the driver's side axle boots replaced for good measure.

BTW, great website.

wow the old thread has been revived :)