Cool, I'll have to check the post thickness tonight with my micrometer. But I am thinking that since the bolt is 22mm outside diameter tho post should be 19mm or less. I also asked the seller. If it will work I will just pick it up from him - would AutoZone have something like this so I can get it sooner?

Thanks for clearing this up. I was wonder what that was lol.

I dont suppose I could just use the C-clamp somehow for this, huh? Maybe if I had some sort of cylinder shaped spacer to get up and over the threaded post and tighten the clamp down onto to push it out- might try using an old socket or something maybe. Would this damage anything?

This one should work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-B...spagenameZWDVW

I have BMW original one which looks similar but cost more. Friend of mine used that one in a picture (or at least identically looking one) with sucess.

Also, tapping on a carrier with heavy hammer may help when tool under tension. I actually bent OE BMW tool on one of ball joints on my 540. So, if it starts going real tight - hammer it :) But usually tie rod ends come out easier then control arms.

I started to try my idea with the c-clamp and socket but it didn't seem to budge. Ill try tapping it with the hammer under pressure. I don't think I risk stripping the post or messing up the boot like this. If it doesn't work I'll get the tool, I just don't feel like waiting for the damn thing to get here.

Also did you completely remove the wish bone? Some of these nuts are a total bitch to crack. I almost busted my hand on one of them.

Dare I ask if it is any easier to hook all this shit back up lol?

Don't tap on tie rod. Tap on carrier where tie rod goes in.

No. I just disconnected ball joint. In your case (without tool) it will be easier to disconnect at subframe.

It's heavy piece to hold while starting bolts, but if you get helper for 1 minute - shouldn't be a problem. I did it myself. But again, I have lot's of expierence

OK.. I think I got it, but will I still need the puller for the front control arm or should that baby just drop out once I have the steering tie rod and rear ball joint out?

Thanks again for all your help.

ok c-clamp thing didn't work at all haha, not sure what i was thinking. I am gonna see if autozone has one of those ball joint seperators else i am ordering one online.

AutoZone ended up having a free $20 rental tool that worked perfectly without mauling the boots, the almighty "Tierod/Pitman Arm Puller" (27022).

http://we350z.com/cpg/albums/userpic...l_IMGP0520.JPG

Bitch (steering tie rod) popped right off, it's all about concentrating that torque i guess :)

http://we350z.com/cpg/albums/userpic...l_IMGP0518.JPG

And I dropped the wish bone from the chassis sub-frame:

http://we350z.com/cpg/albums/userpic...l_IMGP0519.JPG

It is still attached to the hub assembly as I do not have the BMW special tool to remove it. Right now it is sitting on a floor jack... i'm not sure where I should I ziptie it to so its not hanging when I pull the half axle shaft? Is this why the sway bar endlink (bottom nut?) needs to be removed? Do I need to completely remove this or just the top or bottom nut? I loostened the bottom nut but can't seem to get the fucker off (it just keeps turning - looks like i need a thin 18mm wrench to hold the inside of nut from turning?)

I also popped off the front control arm from the hub assmebly with the tool:

http://we350z.com/cpg/albums/userpic...l_IMGP0524.JPG

I put another floor jack under the hub to support it temporarily.

So I am on Step #8 now - loosten inner boot (big clamp). And then next #9, remove the whole deal - the half axle assembly.

I have a couple of questions here:

1) I am still confused about what I need to do with sway bar end link, sounds like i got everything else (are there any other bolts I need to remove - i.e. the 22mm bolts holding hub assembly to the strut tower?) Please see the red cirlces in the attachment.
2) Where to zip tie steering tie rod and rear control arm to.
3) Air hammer - how and when exactly do i use it and what exactly should I be hitting it against?

--gracias

the way I remove the sway bar link is to use a channel lock type pliers to hold the "nut" (boot side) and zip the nut off with an impact. be carefull not to rip the rubber boot.

you have a puller to pull the hub (swivel bearing) apart from the half shaft?

remove the two nut/bolts from the strut and zip tie that

This makes sense ... i tried to slide my wrench in there and was afraid I might rip the boot. I'll figure this out.

No, I am leaving the swivel bearing as-is and removing the entire half-axle assembly with it still attached. Then I will remove the inner boot to get to the outer boot, this is katit's shortcut method. I am just a little unclear about how the half axle comes out ... he mentioned something about using the air hammer to accomplish this.

The red circles in the pic above?

thx