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The panel can come off with the door in the close/lock position. Here's a video (not a BMW) but the concept is still the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcYaJKlhX5s&t=138s |
I think i am suffering from a sticking door latch and carrier issue at the Same exact time.
literally, last night window wouldn't roll up. this morning at work the door wouldn't open. when it rains BMW it pours BMW. i was able to get the door opening by fiddling with the inside and outside handles, locking, unlocking over and over. and somehow i got it open. once i got the panel off, the carrier actually looks okay. i think the lock was just sticking. the window regulator is fine too. just the clips are busted, as is typical. |
^^The carrier doesn't really look "bad" when it goes, per se - I'd replace it anyway if its original
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Initially when carrier isn't working properly the lock mechanism is simply sticky. It won't break until you pull too hard while it's broken. You can take it out, clean the lock mechanism and put dry graphite lubrication on (doesn't get gummy when cold). If you can't open from inside door handle then likely the latch the problem cross fingers not that it's pricy.
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BUMP for winter prep
Snow is on it way for all the northern States, so look for more postings of "Door Handle broken" shortly. This and the dreaded CCVC blocked and smoking/oil all over the place, are the two most posted questions every time it get REALLY cold out. Makes you want to garage them. Suggestions: Drive 'em until HOT at least weekly. If you do only short stop and goes under 5 mile trips, you are counting down to failure on the CCVC (PCV valve/ oil separator system). Take a look at your oil temp gauge and you will see if it ever gets to normal temps. On the door handle, lube them now!!!! |
The door handle break is an operator error problem based on a design defect. Be very careful when it seems like the door seal is frozen. Almost always the actual problem is the internal lock on the door handle is stuck in gummy oil. I have to take apart wife's door to refurbish her door actuator and I will try to get a good how to figured out to clean and dry lube that sticky part.
Listen close when you fob unlock. If there is a delayed "click" that's the locking tab slowly sliding out of the lock position. Learn where the door handle binds when locked. When it doesn't move past that point the door is *still locked* and tugging on the handle will break the carrier. It's 100% avoidable. When the door handle gives resistance, open the back door reach up and open the front door from the inside. Drive the car and warm it up it will usually get the moisture out of the lock and it will start behaving properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
:iagree:
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Hello,
I live in CA and will need to replace at least 2 door handles. I didn't see anything in the recent thread. Is there a recommended dealer that I should order from, preferable someone who support and has discount for xoutpost.com :) Thanks in advance! |
If you’re in Orange County I have a good Indy shop I can recommend. No xoutpost discount though, but they have good pricing :)
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Broken Outside Door Handle Fix
I just installed one of these today. I did some experimenting before installing and determined that the unlatch lever is disconnected when locked so I removed the tab from the handle carrier that binds the handle when locked causing the handle carrier to self destruct.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f5ad328804.jpg The red arrow is the locking bar the blue is the tab that blocks the handle from lifting. I cut off the tab and now the handle operates as it should: when locked out does nothing: "dry fires" so no longer puts undue stress on the carrier. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...807808d747.jpg Blue arrow points to the missing tab. Extremely important: the carrier I just installed put in had a spring that was too long and actually scraped the glass! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2775e460e8.jpg I cut off the end of the spring to resolve the problem. |
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