Not sure which hex screw you are talking about…and not sure what you mean by "can't get it threaded". The holes don't line up? Or you can't get it to thread so that you can screw it in?

I had a problem with one because I couldn't get my fingers in the door to hold the screw and I was afraid it would fall off and into the door, so I taped the screw to the end of a hex driver so it wouldn't fall off. Once I got it in a few threads I pulled the driver off and pulled the tape off with needle nose and and then finished tightening it up. See my post on the previous page.

Maybe this is what you are struggling with?

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

Holes do not line up: hole on the lock unit is too far to the right and I tried to move the carrier to the very right. But its as far as it goes, still have 3mm difference between holes

Hoopie hi, do you have any pics of what you refer to as axel bolts?,and would i have to follow the diy here and remove all the inside trim etc to actually disassemble the part you mention and so would maybe i simply be better of buying the part in case the part is broken and have replace it.....and save having to put door back together agian and then off again after getting new part?thanks

I don't think this thread is every going to die. My rear drivers side just broke last week and now the drivers side front quite working today, same issue, wont open the door from the outside but from the inside is okay. Since it opens okay inside is it just a mis aligned part causing the issue or has the carrier failed? Some in this post have referenced to fixing theirs but no real detail as to the fix.

As for replacement part, OEM seems to be the recommended purchase but why buy OEM when it breaks so often? Anyone have experience with a better replacement part? When I replaced my regulators (yes thats more than one) I used Dorman as the carrier was stamped metal instead of the cast type in the OEM so hopefully more substantial.

Appreciate any thoughts before I start

Bob

More than a few details here too:
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-stuck-13.html

Bob, Lots of details in the thread, unfortunately, they come in bits and pieces. For example, my note about having to leverage out the carrier at the spring to get the outside properly aligned to finalize the install with the screw. As I recall, some posters have had fit problems with the knock-off chinese parts. Given how close the tolerances are, that's not surprising. The OEM is probably needed, its just that the metal casting isn't the strongest. If Dorman sells a better knock-off, noone has reported that here, as best I remember.

Looks like I need to replace and OEM seems to be the best option as Riggodeaux mentioned. An amazon dealer seems to have the best price at $91 plust $10 shipping. Will start next week so hopefully all will be okay. While I'm in there, I can check out how the regulator is holding up I replaced last year. Something seems to be vibrating while idling.

I have the oem parts in and started the install for the rear driver side. All has gone well but I cant seem to get the carrier to clear the door lock rod to fully remove. The video I view said to pull forward then rotate downward but the carrier will still not clear the rod. Is there something special to do for the rear door vrs the front?

My fix was removing the door actuator and stem with the three hex head screws. Looks like this had been done before as one of the hex heads was in bad shape. Still struggling to get the new carrier lined up correctly. Looked simple in the video so searching now for added tips.

Where are you, Bob? I'm about to leave work in Buckhead and the World Cup [5-0, Germany] holds no interest ...... if nearby, I'll come by and take a look .....